The Samsung refrigerator is a fairly successful household appliance in terms of design, which rarely fails in the next few years after its purchase. However, after 5-6 years of operation, some systems and components of the unit begin to malfunction. Since such devices are a fairly advanced technology so that other, still working systems do not fail, it is necessary to immediately look for the cause. Such units have several typical breakdowns, the main one of which is that Samsung refrigerators do not freeze or do not cool enough.
Simple causes of problems with Samsung units
The equipment has enough advantages over refrigerators of other brands, but after several years of operation, breakdowns begin. The electronic control in such units is extremely sensitive to voltage surges, and without appropriate maintenance, the devices’ parts begin to wear out rapidly. The electronic type of control displays all faults on the display in the form of error codes, and when one of the indicators or an icon on the screen starts to light up, it is likely that the cause is a simple problem, for example:
- The temperature in the compartment increased after loading food products and the indicator came on - most likely, the problem lies in the flap being open for too long, so the unit needs a couple of hours to restore normal temperature conditions.
- The temperature in the compartment was set incorrectly - all values must be adjusted according to the operating instructions.
- The sensor in the ice tray indicates that it was installed incorrectly - change the location of the tray and everything returns to normal.
Attention! The correct temperature in the chambers of Samsung refrigeration equipment is extremely important, since the difference between the compartments must not exceed 0.3 °C, otherwise the equipment will not function normally.
In a two-chamber Samsung, the upper chamber may not work due to a frozen fan or an open flap. The door may not fit tightly due to incorrect placement of products in the compartment, which does not allow the door to close completely. And in cases where the door has been open for a long time, and ice and frost have formed on the walls of the chamber, it is necessary to allow the unit to thaw for 10 hours, and then check the condition of the rubber seal and door fastenings.
When the fan freezes in refrigerators with the No Frost system, the circulation of air masses is disrupted and, as a result, the upper chamber does not cool. To solve the problem, you need to allow the unit to defrost and let it rest for 24 hours.
What is the danger of a situation where the freezer is working, but the refrigerator compartment is not freezing?
When the refrigerator compartment does not work, the owner of the unit expects 2 main troubles: the first of them is spoiled food, the second is increased wear and tear of the refrigerator. After all, when one of the nodes does not work, the others receive double or even triple load. That is why we recommend carrying out repairs in a timely manner: before minor breakdowns lead to more serious, and therefore more expensive, faults to fix.
However, you shouldn’t get upset ahead of time. Perhaps there is no breakdown as such. First check:
- Is the door closed? Perhaps the refrigerator is not closed tightly because something is in the way: a bottle, a pan, a large plate. In this case, simply push the interfering object deeper, and after some time the temperature in the refrigerator will normalize. If the “fur coat” is frozen in the refrigerator, it is better to defrost it completely. After switching on everything should be normal.
- Is the fan working? It happens that in two-compressor refrigerators with a fan in the refrigerator compartment, this very fan freezes. Accordingly, the cold is not pumped in and the temperature does not drop to the required value. You can tell that a fan is frozen by its sound: you can usually hear its quiet operation. This is true? This means that the refrigerator needs complete defrosting: at least 10 hours . A shorter amount of time may not be enough for the ice to melt in all the internal cavities of the refrigerator.
Everything is fine, but the refrigerator is still not cooling? This means you need to call a specialist. Before he arrives, it is better to forcefully turn off the unit by unplugging the cord from the outlet.
Problems that only a master must solve
When the rubber seal on the door is in good condition, and daily defrosting did not help, most likely the problem is more serious and the help of a refrigeration equipment repairman will be required to solve it. Call a specialist for the following breakdowns:
- The fan motor has failed - after the unit defrosts, the blades do not begin to rotate. Due to contact with moisture, the motor could break down and therefore it needs to be replaced after a technician diagnoses it.
- The refrigerator compartment compressor has broken down - the freezer continues to cool food, but the temperature in the main compartment increases. In this case, one of the compressors starts for 5-10 seconds and then turns off. Most likely you will have to replace the compressor engine with a new one, since this part cannot be repaired.
- Refrigerant leak - the chamber wall has been damaged, the evaporator has failed, or the cooling circuit has become depressurized. The problem can only be solved with the help of specialized equipment, so calling a specialist is mandatory. The specialist will find the breakdown location, eliminate it and refill the system with freon.
- Corrosive damage to the pipeline, which provoked the gradual evaporation of freon. In this case, rusty stains are observed in the chamber. They call a specialist who, as in the case of a freon leak, will identify damaged areas, solder microcracks, replace sections of the pipeline that cannot be repaired, and top up the refrigerant.
- A failed evaporator relay causes a snow “coat” to form on the wall of the compartment, in the area of the evaporator. In such a situation, the non-functioning part is replaced with a serviceable one, since the evaporator relay is not repaired.
All of the above reasons provoke a lack of cooling in the upper chamber of Samsung refrigeration equipment with the No Frost system.
Fan failure
This malfunction is typical for refrigerators with the No Frost system and can be caused by:
- natural wear and tear of the fan or its motor
- fan icing
The function of the freezer fan is to create air flows that circulate through the channels of the refrigerator and prevent the formation of ice on the walls of its chambers. But devices with an automatic defrosting system must also be defrosted at least once every 2-3 years.
Moisture that gradually accumulates in the freezer causes icing of the fan and the inner wall covering the evaporator. The channels through which air passes become clogged, making it difficult for the fan blades to rotate. The problem can be solved by defrosting the refrigerator or replacing the fan (if the winding of its motor has burned out due to overloads).
The display in the Samsung unit does not work: what to do
The screen on the door of a Samsung refrigerator may not work and show only some of the displayed characters, or there may be a situation where only certain segments are lit on the monitor. In this option, diagnostics of the door electronics is necessary, since if there was re-hanging, the wires could be damaged or pinched, which makes it difficult for the signal to pass through.
The most unpleasant development of events is when a failure occurs in the control board - the module can fail due to moisture getting on it or a sudden power surge in the network. In this embodiment, either the control board or the fuse burns out directly. Low voltage in the electrical network can also lead to failure of the display. To prevent further problems with the functioning of Samsung refrigeration equipment, it is necessary to connect the equipment exclusively through a voltage stabilizer.
Reference! The Samsung rl34ecsw model has a software failure associated with the display, when the temperature in the refrigerator compartment increases to 20 °C, and the display displays the normal degree value for the refrigerator.
Assistant sensors
The user can independently regulate the temperature from the control panel - information is provided by sensors located inside the device. They are the ones who monitor the territory allocated to them in the unit. The sensors have the following parts of the device:
- common refrigeration chamber;
- internal space in the evaporator;
- freezer compartment;
- control panel (for environmental measurement).
Setting the required temperature
carried out using the Cooling Power or Fridge keys (or a mechanical rotary knob). The control panel itself, visible to the user, receives data from the sensors through the control circuit. In most cases, models from this brand have 502AT controllers, which are universal.
Failure of any of the device’s sensors leads to malfunction of the entire Samsung refrigerator. Such repairs are best left to the appropriate specialists.
Refrigerator electrical circuit
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not working?
When equipment with the No Frost system does not work, there can be many reasons. The defrosting system itself is represented by several units and parts, and to accurately determine the location of the fault, a full diagnostic is performed. Potentially, when the Samsung unit is not working, the following components could fail:
- motor-compressor;
- start-protection relay;
- air sensor;
- Evaporator heating element;
- Freon leak.
When the motor-compressor is faulty, it does not start and clicks are heard. If the start-protection relay breaks down, when it is damaged or stuck in one position, when the wires going to it are bridged, the compressor starts. In this option, the damaged part is replaced. When the air sensor fails, it does not transmit commands to the temperature control module in the chamber.
If the heating element of the evaporator is broken, then the refrigerator does not defrost, and a snow “coat” grows on the walls of the compartment. In this situation, the faulty part is replaced. This problem is typical for Samsung refrigeration equipment model rl40egps. When the piping is damaged, refrigerant gas escapes and the refrigerator stops freezing. For repairs, they call a specialist who locates the breakdown, eliminates it and fills the system with “fresh” freon.
Reference! Only a specialist can determine why the upper chamber specifically does not freeze or why the Samsung refrigerator as a whole does not work, after a full diagnosis. Partially, you can determine the problem by the error code that the unit displays as part of the self-diagnosis program, but it will not be possible to repair the equipment based only on this information.
Possible problems
The control panel will definitely show that the device has malfunctioned: the corresponding indicator will blink. However, one of the following reasons may cause the problem.
- The temperature rise is more than 3 degrees. This often happens due to constantly opening the door
in hot weather. The problem can be solved simply: the refrigerator should be tightly closed and not opened for about 2-3 hours. - The temperature mode was not set - this defect can be eliminated following the instructions.
- There is a separate indicator in the ice tray. It may signal that the part is installed incorrectly - this point should be checked and the misunderstanding eliminated.
- Sometimes when rearranging doors, a malfunction occurs in the contacts of the electronic panel
. In this case, it is better to check the connections again.
How to solve the problem with setting the temperature in units from this manufacturer? The instructions for each model contain detailed information on how to do this correctly.
Setting the temperature
Preventing breakdowns in Samsung units
The manufacturer includes an instruction manual for each unit, which contains all the necessary information to maintain the functionality of the refrigeration equipment for as long as possible. The main rules that must be observed by the owner of a Samsung refrigerator if they want to extend its “life”:
- It is not advisable to manually defrost units with the No Frost system, since auto-defrosting, which occurs once every 12 months, is sufficient for washing and cleaning the refrigeration compartments.
- When it is necessary to clean the refrigerator while it is on, it is advisable to do this at a moderate (+16…+20 C) room temperature. When this rule is neglected, an overheated compressor fails due to excessive load.
- When cleaning the internal surfaces of the refrigerator, it is prohibited to use abrasive agents or aggressive chemicals.
- The back wall also needs to be cleaned of dust and other contaminants, as they can become embedded in the components and elements of the device, which will lead to accelerated wear of parts.
- Food products must be kept in hermetically sealed containers, since due to the peculiarities of the No Frost system, food is dehydrated when left uncovered.
- It is prohibited to place refrigeration equipment outdoors, since household appliances are not designed to be exposed to atmospheric phenomena (rain, snow, sub-zero temperatures or summer heat).
- The unit is located away from contact with direct sunlight and away from heating devices, room heating systems, frying surfaces, ovens and other heat sources.
Samsung two-chamber units with the No Frost defrosting system are extremely popular models among consumers. These refrigerators are quite reliable, and their cost is not too high for the average buyer. Samsung models operate virtually silently, they are economical and have an impressive range of additional functions. If the operating rules are followed, such refrigerators can function without failure for many years.
What else could it be
In addition to the most likely ones, a number of other possibilities should be taken into account. So, external and internal reasons are considered. The first group includes various damages: due to exposure to mechanical loads or chemicals, failure of the seal on the door. Internal causes include refrigerant leakage, compressor failure, and loss of properties of the material from which the tubes are made. The likely factor depends on the operating conditions. The design features of the unit also play a role.
Refrigerant leak
The main reason is a violation of the integrity of the pipeline. The damage may be microscopic. However, the refrigerant gas will be released into the air. Reducing the amount of freon helps reduce the intensity of heat removal from the chamber. Under such conditions, the compressor operates at the limit of its capabilities. This means that it is necessary to restore the integrity of the pipeline as quickly as possible.
The main reason for its damage is long-term operation of the refrigerator without defrosting. Even units with the No Frost system require periodic shutdown for preventive purposes.
Malfunction of one of the compressors
The main symptom of this problem is a short-term start of the compressor or a long absence of sounds characteristic of its operation. In this case, a change in the operating mode towards a higher temperature value is immediately noted inside the chamber. The compressor needs to be replaced. If it is broken, it is impossible to ensure normal operation of the unit.
Problems with the rubber seal
Probable reasons:
- the presence of a defect that was not noticed during inspection of the refrigerator and appeared during operation of the device;
- wear due to long service.
In both cases, you need to remove the seal from the door. In most cases, this strip is attached to a groove. You just need to pick it up and pull it out with your fingers. If the seal has a defect (bend, depression), it can be eliminated by immersing the product in hot water. You can use a hairdryer. In this case, the defect is removed without removing the elastic strip.
When the cause of the seal failure is wear and tear, it must be replaced. It is no longer possible to restore the integrity of such a product. It is important to choose the right size and cross-sectional shape. A loose seal allows cold air to leak out of the chamber. If this factor is eliminated, the problem of changing the temperature inside the unit will be solved.
Mechanical and chemical damage
If the conditions of transportation or operation are violated, the housing is damaged. Warm air penetrates through tiny cracks in the walls of the unit and cold currents are released. As a result, the compressor cannot provide sufficient cooling of the internal space, which leads to an increase in the intensity of its operation. You can try to eliminate the defect; to do this, you need to remove the damaged area, fill it with insulation and cover it with foil.
Results
In Samsung refrigerators with the No Frost defrosting system, the upper chamber can stop cooling. This happens under the influence of many negative factors. In the vast majority of cases, all breakdowns and associated consequences are the result of non-compliance with any points in their manual for the operation of Samsung refrigeration equipment. When the owner carefully follows these rules, the likelihood of the unit failing in the next 5-6 years after its purchase is minimal.
Video: SAMSUNG refrigerator indicator blinks and the upper chamber does not cool
SAMSUNG refrigerator indicator blinks and the upper chamber does not cool
Watch this video on YouTube
Video: Samsung refrigerator repair. The upper chamber does not cool. Quick help.
Samsung refrigerator repair. The upper chamber does not cool. Quick help.
Watch this video on YouTube
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Refrigerator and freezer operation
The Frost Know refrigerator has stopped cooling. How to avoid refrigerator malfunctions? The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. The general operating diagram of the device looks like this:
- Thanks to it, pressure is formed. It is with the help of the generated pressure that the refrigerant moves to the condenser, where the gas turns into liquid.
- The process generates heat, which can be felt when you touch the back wall of the refrigerator.
- Freon, passing through narrow tubes, turns back into gas.
- After freon enters the evaporator, it boils. Cold is generated in the evaporator.
- The tubes are located around the freezer, from where the cold spreads further. That is, if the freezer does not freeze, there will be no cold in the refrigerator compartment.
- The refrigerant then returns to the compressor and the cycle is completed.
Bosch refrigerators - Troubleshooting
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- Models KGN-39 VL, VI, SB, NW, AW, NK
- Models KGV
- Models KGN-36, KGS
- Models KGN49, KIN, KAN, KIV, KIS
- KGE models
On the door of the Bosch kgn39xw25r two-chamber refrigerator (with electronic control and the No Frost system) there is an indication of the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. When the door is closed, the indicator lights up dimly, when it is open, it lights up brightly. Now, when the door is closed, the indication disappears, nothing lights up. When open it works fine. What could be the problem? At the bottom of the H.K. there is a protrusion in the form of a small box; there is a damper there. When you open or close the door, it moves. When it moves, it makes a lot of noise (sounds like a tractor). What could be the problem? If in the x-model kgn39xw25r the display is dim or sometimes does not work, then this may be the cause of a failure in the control module. It is very difficult to say what could be the reason. On-site diagnosis by a technician is required. Bosch gold edition kgn39ak18r (no frost). The essence of the problem: once a week I disassemble the back wall of the freezer and thaw the ice with an electric hairdryer (the formed ice does not allow air to circulate). After this operation it works normally for another week. Without this, the lower chamber is +25. I understand that this operation should be performed by heating elements, but they do not turn on. The tens rang - intact. Everything else works fine. If anyone has encountered this, please help. The controls are all electronic. The set temperature in the freezer is -17 (min). The temperature is kept normal. Very often the problem occurs with the evaporator sensor. It is better to check when the unit is still running, because when it dries, it may show a normal value. The sensor is located on the evaporator. Right at the exit. (the entrance is a thin tube). Do not confuse it with the thermal fuse - it is in the middle and in a black cambric. The value - at a temperature of 25C - is approximately 5 kOhm. When heated, the resistance increases. Moreover, the value should change steadily, without “dips” and “breaks”. Usually you take it in your hand and measure it with a tester. If the resistance gradually increases, then look elsewhere, but if it is more, then less, then to zero, then change the sensor. Two-chamber refrigerator brand Bosch kgn39vk15r with one compressor and Full No Frost. The alarm constantly sounds several times a day, but the red light does not light up. If the kgn39vk15r makes a sound, as if the door is open for a long time, then the failure may be in the reed switch door opening sensor, if not, then the matter is due to increased temperature in one of the chambers. Check the freezer; if it is covered in snow and ice, then there is a breakdown in the evaporator defrost system (defrost sensor or evaporator heater). The fan in the refrigerator compartment does not work in the bosch kgn39vk15r refrigerator. How to fix? If the evaporator fan does not work, then the problem may be due to the following malfunctions: The fan motor has failed and needs to be replaced with a new one; The evaporator is covered in ice and there is a problem with the evaporator defrost system (defrost sensor or evaporator heater). Ice and snow prevent the fan from rotating; Failure of the H.K. sensor. We installed a two-chamber Bosch KGN39VW14R refrigerator with electronic control and No Frost in both chambers. All indicators lit up as stated in the instructions. I checked whether there would be an alarm when the door was open for more than a minute, but there was no signal, and today the alarm indicator does not light up at all. What is the reason? The ALARM indicator turns on only when the temperature in one of the chambers is insufficient. When you turned on the unit yesterday, the temperature in the chambers was not sufficient and the ALARM light was on. Now, the temperature is normal and the ALARM should not light up. So, this is normal operation of the device and there is no need to worry about this. We have a two-chamber Bosch KGN39VW19R refrigerator with electronic control, one compressor and No Frost in both chambers. They turned it off for a while. When turned on, the upper chamber does not cool. Why is this happening? If the refrigerator compartment in the KGN39VW19R does not work, then you need to check whether the evaporator in the freezer is frozen; it may interfere with the operation of the fan. In this case, the evaporator heater or defrost sensor may be faulty. If there is no ice or snow in the freezer, the control module or fan motor may be broken. I have a Bosch gold edition kgn39ad18r No Frost refrigerator. Yesterday the freezer beeped because the temperature rose to -13 degrees. When you press the Eco button, there is no reaction, but when you press the Super button, the freezer responds and the temperature begins to decrease, but the compressor is always on. This morning the temperature reached -18 and I pressed Eco. A few hours later it’s -13 again and beeping. What's broken? There can be many reasons for a freezer malfunction (depending on the number of compressors, type of control and type of defrosting). In super mode, the unit works “for wear”, and therefore turns off when it overheats. Examples of malfunctions when the freezer is not working: Clogged capillary system; The motor-compressor is damaged, but because... this is unlikely to work in super mode; Freezer thermostat (or sensor) problem; Refrigerant (freon) leak. To begin with, we would advise defrosting the unit for at least a day. If after this the freezer does not work at all, then it is most likely a leak or a blockage. Two-chamber refrigerator kgn39xw26r with electronic control with the No Frost system. During defrosting, water appeared in the cold room. chamber and on the floor under the refrigerator. The condensate container is completely dry. Maybe the water drain pipe is clogged? Can I solve the problem myself? How to clean the straw? Most likely, in the kgn39xw26r the drainage hole in the refrigerator compartment is clogged. It is located at the bottom of the back wall. You can clean it with something soft, like plastic, and long (for example, a cocktail straw). After this, rinse with warm, but not hot water directly into the hole. Double-chamber refrigerator kgn39ak18r gold edition. The cold room stopped working. camera and, apparently, the evaporator sensor has broken again. But first, a little background. A little over six months ago (June 2015) there was already such a problem. I called a technician (not an official). After we opened the freezer (behind the panel) we found a huge fur coat on the evaporator (if I call it correctly). As the master explained, the evaporator sensor broke because of the fur coat. The master took a long time to defrost the fur coat with a hairdryer. Then he changed the sensor, gave a six-month warranty and left. And then a few months later the same problem happened again. I opened the freezer again and found the fur coat again. It is clear that I will call a specialist and not repair it myself. But I would like to understand the source of the problem so as not to step on the same rake. I read that mold can grow in the condensate drain pipe. If so, then replacing the sensor is not the solution. Is it possible to do this yourself? Firstly, if this starts, then turn it off, open the doors, take out all the products and defrost for at least 2 days. Why wait so long? Because the drain hole is frozen. Here, in my opinion, several factors play a role: Unsuccessful (incorrect) location of the defrost heating element precisely in the area where the drain hole is located and a very long heat-transferring metal appendix attached to the heating element tube and slightly pushed into the drain hole. Low heating element power. This was done for the sake of energy consumption class A. Mine has a resistance of 286 ohms, but our network voltage is 220, sometimes 200, while the German’s is 230 V and more stable. The defrosting algorithm depends on the number of openings and closings of doors, and somehow incorrectly determines the moment and duration of defrosting. Control methods are preventive. Every winter (in cold weather, hang food in a net and behind the window) defrost. Do not put unpackaged wet food in the freezer or refrigerator. Do not fill the freezer all the way. Don’t pull the door a hundred times a day, because every opening is a cupboard full of humid kitchen air (moisture), which you have to first freeze, then defrost and drain. Alternative: install an additional small heating element in the drainage area and turn it on parallel to the main one. I have a problem with a Bosch kgn39vw10r two-chamber refrigerator with full No Frost and 1 compressor. The freezer compartment works, but the refrigerator compartment does not, the fan motor does not start (it turns on for a few seconds). If the idle fan kgn39vw10r turns on for a few seconds, then the idle fan does not work. camera for this reason. Most likely, the fan motor burnt out. Also check if the evaporator in the freezer is frozen. Bosch KGN39VW19R, article C107 (with full No Frost system). We brought it home, and according to the instructions, after three hours we leveled it and plugged it into the outlet. Within 24 hours after connection it is very noisy. According to the technical characteristics, this model has a noise level of 42 dB. Please tell me, for the above model, how long should the compressor work and how long should it rest? And how can you eliminate excess noise? Indeed, modern refrigerators with No Frost are a little louder than previous models because of this. The fact is that in addition to the compressor, the fan also produces sound, which transfers cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. The compressor should operate in a mode of 40 minutes on and 20 minutes off (on average). But often, you will hear the fan working even more. The day before yesterday I connected a two-chamber refrigerator Bosch gold edition kgn39ad18r with the know frost system. The freezer immediately fogged up, today there is already a thin layer of frost on the boxes in the freezer, the snowflakes are frozen, you run your finger - the snow remains. The temperature there was -18, now it is -16. As I understand it, there should be no frost at all with no frost. At this rate, will I have a fur coat in a couple of months? What to do? The snow that has formed in the freezer compartment of x-ka kgn39ad18r may be due to the fact that you put warm food in and the temperature and humidity outside. The fact is that the No Frost system does not immediately remove moisture from the freezer (snow). The primary task of the freezer is to cool the food to the desired temperature, only after that it will begin to remove frost. You will not have a fur coat, but a small film of frost will be present. We remind you that the optimal temperature in the freezer for storing food is -16 - 18C. Try not to open the freezer compartment for a long time unless necessary, especially in the summer. I have a refrigerator kgn39xw26r. Now the following problem has occurred: H.K. is not cooling. The camera does not freeze. The Alarm light is constantly on or all three lights are blinking (Alarm, refrigerator and freezer indicator). The unit was defrosted for 3 days. They turned on the same thing. It doesn’t get cold at all, and the freezer doesn’t freeze, it just gets cold. What to do, maybe you can tell me? The ALARM indicator operates due to insufficient temperature in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. In your case, the reasons for such a breakdown may be the following: Malfunction of the control board (if the model is electronically controlled); The motor-compressor has failed (decompression). Does not create the necessary pressure; If one compressor is installed, the freezer temperature sensor may be damaged. Refrigerator Bosch kgn39vw14r. Please tell me how to choose the right seal for the freezer door? The seal is selected according to the model of the refrigerator. A seal with part number 00479884 is supplied for the KGN39VW14R refrigerator. Bosch kgn39vk19r No Frost two-chamber refrigerator, in operation for 2 years. Starts beeping after varying periods of time. The master looked - everything was fine. He advised me to buy a stabilizer. Did not help. We defrosted it for three days - it didn’t help. The indicator lights on the display light up as normal. The temperature in both chambers is normal. Tell me what else to do? If the kgn39vk19r has a control display on the door, then you need to check the integrity of the loop, as well as the serviceability of the door opening sensor, this may be the issue. X-k Bosch kgn39xw25r. After closing the door, the engine starts to make a knocking noise. If this happens when closing the H.K. and model kgn39xw25r with No Frost, then check the freezer. Most likely, there is a lot of snow and ice there, and the fan of the No Frost system touches the snow and makes similar sounds. Bosch kgn39vk19r (1 compressor). It sounded like a cricket and was turned off. After turning it on, the relay started clicking. Interval from more than a minute to three, click, about 10 seconds, click and so on in the cycle. The compressor is warm, the heat exchanger is at room temperature. The freezer controls appear to be working. Relay Klixon 6SP9015 1H8AB4. Compressor ZBS1114CY. The thermal relay turns off the compressor; it is jammed. To be sure, measure the current in the compressor startup mode (during switching on); if it is more than 1A, then the compressor is faulty. Two-chamber refrigerator Bosch kgn39vw10r with electronic control, No Frost system and one motor-compressor. When the temperature indicators turn on to full scale in both chambers (with the doors closed), an audible alarm is activated. The indicators switch to the set temperature mode, the alarm sound disappears. This happens periodically; there are days when the alarm does not sound. The sound alarm on the kgn39vw10r model is triggered because the temperature in one of the chambers is insufficient. Most likely, it is in the refrigerator and it is necessary to correct its operation, after which the sounds will disappear.
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Freezer compressor failure
If the upper chamber of the refrigerator has stopped working, and you begin to notice that the freezer compressor (for dual-motor models) starts cyclically for a few seconds and immediately turns off, then the reason lies in a motor failure caused by:
- wear of the motor-compressor or its components
- exceeding the load on the motor-compressor, including regularly turning the freezer thermostat to the position providing maximum freezing
The service specialist will conduct a detailed diagnosis of the functionality of the freezer compressor, and will also repair or replace it at home in one visit.