14 reasons: Why the refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works

It's always bad when expensive equipment breaks down, especially something as important as a refrigerator or freezer. This creates a lot of inconvenience, and you have to spend money on repairs. But when the refrigerator does not freeze, you should not immediately start worrying, since not in all cases the breakdown is complex. Quite often you can fix it yourself.

All models of refrigerators (Hotpoint ariston, Ardo, Beko, Bosch, Candy, Daewoo, Electrolux, Gorenje, Haier, ( Hayer), Hansa, Hitachi, Indesit, Liebherr, LG, Nord, Polair, Pozis, Sharp, Shivaki Shivaki), Siemens, Snaige, Stinol, Samsung, Toshiba, Vestel, Vestfrost, Whirlpool, Zanussi, Elenberg Elenberg), Biryusa, Yuryuzan, Atlant, Oka Sviyaga, Ocean, Minsk) breakdowns are typical in nature, which means they have specific signs. In some cases (but not always), you can carry out diagnostics and repairs yourself.

IMPORTANT: Myths and fairy tales

There are many articles on the Internet that give advice from incompetent people. They can name the following reasons why the main compartment of the refrigerator does not work:

Doors do not close tightly;
The seal is worn out;
It's too hot in the apartment;
Do you use the main compartment often?
Place hot food in the refrigerator.

Indeed, all this leads to improper operation of the equipment. But for the main camera not to work... There must be a good reason. It’s not like you didn’t close the door tightly or put a pot of warm soup in the refrigerator. And now more details.

Problems with doors and seals

Let's say the gap between the door (seal) and the refrigerator body is 1 cm. Then the main chamber will cool, but the compressor will have difficulty. It will turn on frequently, or work constantly. But the refrigerator will maintain the temperature.

High temperature in the apartment

There is an opinion that in hot weather the refrigerator does not cope with its work. In fact, manufacturers make equipment with a power reserve. Even if it’s +35 in your apartment, the refrigerator will work. There may be excessive consumption of electricity, but it will cope with its task.

Frequent use

Any refrigerator manufacturer relies on the doors to open and close. This is normal operation of this type of technology. Yes, the more often you open the main chamber of the refrigerator, the greater the heat influx. But this will only lead to the following:

The compressor will work more intensely;
There will be periodic temperature changes in the upper chamber;
The electricity consumption of the refrigerator will increase.

Hot food in the refrigerator

Indeed, when you place hot food in the refrigerator, the load on the compressor increases. He won't always be able to cope with it. The chamber may warm up and it will seem that the refrigerator is not cooling. But this is temporary; soon the compartment will cool down to the optimal temperature.

Possible refrigerator malfunctions

If the refrigerator has stopped cooling and the freezer is covered with ice, then you should immediately contact a professional. Idleness will have different consequences. Thus, food will quickly deteriorate, and equipment will completely cease to function over time.

Common reasons why the refrigerator has stopped freezing include:

Relay malfunction;
Damage to the starting capacitor;
Engine combustion;
Freon leak (the equipment works, but the cooling does not start);
Stopping the capillary system through which the refrigerant is supplied.

Before contacting the service center, you need to check if there is a gap between the door and the seal. Warm air can flow inside through it, which will harm not only the products, but also the equipment itself. As a result, such a common problem arises as the refrigerator begins to freeze poorly.

Air entering the chamber is possible for the following reasons:

The equipment is placed on an uneven surface, which leads to the doors warping;
Placing heavy objects on the door causes sagging;
In older models, there is no “open door” signal, which often causes an accidental gap to form (you shouldn’t wonder why the freezer is covered with ice);
The formation of ice, which prevents the door from closing tightly;
Damage to the seal or loss of elasticity.

If the check shows that the door is in good condition and fits tightly, it is worth considering other reasons why the refrigerator works but does not freeze.

Freon leak

If the compressor constantly runs without shutting down, and the refrigerator does not cool well, then the cooling circuit may be damaged. Gradually the temperature in the internal space rises. If the circuit is damaged, a gap is formed through which freon leaks out of the system.

You can determine the reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze on your own. To do this, just check the condition of the capacitor by hand. If the grill is hot, the appliance is working normally. If the circuit is damaged, the condenser is cold, which indicates a freon leak.

To troubleshoot why the refrigerator is not cooling, you need to carefully check the system and detect damage. The gap is closed and new refrigerant is added. It is recommended to refill the system with freon of the same brand as before. Otherwise, the equipment may begin to work incorrectly. This often causes the refrigerator to freeze poorly.

Leave a request and receive a 15% discount on your first repair!

Submit your application

Cooling system stoppage

During the use of household appliances, the capillary tube and filter-drier often become clogged. The main cause of blockage is the use of low-quality freon, which contains a large amount of moisture. This can also be observed with improper refueling. The process is carried out only under the condition of preliminary vacuumization.

Without this, the refrigerant will begin to evaporate. Evaporation is accompanied by the formation of water, which subsequently freezes and forms a plug. This reason leads to the fact that the refrigerator compartment does not work or the refrigerator does not freeze well.

As for filters, they are designed to prevent moisture from entering the system. When the dehumidifier wears out, there is a chance of ice blockage forming. Cupping can also be caused by particulate matter. These may be wear products of the compressor and other system elements. This explains why the refrigerator is not cooling.

When the cooling system is stopped, the refrigerator hums, but does not cool. The reason for this uncharacteristic noise is that the engine is forced to work under heavy load. He is forced to push freon, despite the blockage formed. To fix the problem, you need to call professionals. The system is cleaned using special hydraulic equipment. Clogged tubes are purged, and the worn filter drier is replaced.

Compressor fault

Just because the compressor is hot does not mean it is working correctly. In some cases it may not turn on. But, sometimes the unit works intermittently. At the same time, its inclusion is accompanied by a rumble, loud noise and clicking. All this indicates wear and tear on the unit. It is not able to work normally and provide normal freon pressure in the network.

If such signs are present, it is worth diagnosing the refrigerator compressor. First, check the contacts. If the compressor does not work, then it is replaced. For minor problems, repairs are made.

Malfunction of the control unit and other components

A malfunction of the thermostat, temperature sensor and control unit results in the compressor not receiving correct information about the temperature state in the chambers. This does not make it possible to begin regulating the regime. Failure of the analyzing elements leads to the fact that the refrigerator compressor does not work completely or partially.

Professionals do not exclude this possibility. Therefore, during diagnostics, they check the serviceability of all sensors and regulators. Faulty elements are replaced. Especially if the refrigerator is not freezing, but the freezer is working.

#1 – Incorrect installation

The operating principle of a refrigerator is not “production of cold”. It simply removes excess heat from the chamber to the outside through a heat exchanger on the rear wall. If the refrigerator is installed near a device that produces heat (radiator, stove), it will not cool properly.

The distance to the walls and position play an important role. There are several basic installation rules:

It is not recommended to place the refrigerator in the corner;
The distance from the heat exchanger to the wall is at least 10 cm;
You should not hang cabinets or shelves above the refrigerator.

The distance to the walls depends on the volume of the refrigerator, power, and location of the heat exchanger. Some manufacturers have special requirements. Therefore, read the instructions so that there are no problems with operation.

Minor breakdowns due to which there is no cooling of the refrigerator compartment

You can predict a breakdown by observing the behavior of the low-temperature chamber; it should be much colder there than necessary, and in the refrigerating chamber the temperature is constantly maintained at about 15-20 degrees Celsius. Rarely, too high a temperature becomes known through a special refrigerator alarm (if it is, of course, added by the manufacturer), or the red indicator on the control panel of the refrigerator will light up.

If the refrigerator is controlled mechanically by switching the temperature, then you can find out the temperature inside the compartments using a thermometer left in a container of water in a non-working compartment for half a day. If the refrigerator is controlled electronically and there is a screen, the temperature itself will be displayed on the device’s display. In this case, diagnosing the malfunction is much easier. The final symptom is the compressor running on its head. However, simpler reasons may also be involved, which cannot be called too difficult to correct; the most common are the following:

Damage or wear of the rubber band on the refrigerator door is the cause of the damaged seal of the refrigerator compartment; if this is the case, then to correct the problem with the temperature regime, you need to replace the rubber band with a whole one.
In addition, the tightness may be broken due to a loosely fitting chamber door, then heat from the room enters the refrigerating chamber. The reason for this could be either a damaged rubber seal above or an uneven floor on which the refrigerator stands.
If there is too much food in the freezer, it begins to interfere with the passage of air between the chambers, and in addition, all the power of the compressor is used only to ensure the operation of the freezer, but the refrigerator no longer has enough power. To fix this problem, you need to remove excess food from the freezer and defrost the refrigerator as a whole.
If there are heaters, radiators, ovens, radiators, etc. nearby near the refrigerator, then devices from many companies (Bosch, Stinol, Vestel, Beko, etc.) begin to malfunction in the presence of such “neighbors.” This can also happen if the back wall is closer than 5 cm to the wall of the apartment. To deal with this problem, you must again completely defrost the refrigerator and move it to a better place, away from the wall (further than 5 cm), from the heat source, on a flat surface.

As you can understand, the first reason for such cooling problems is the simplest and most “successful” one; it can be fixed at home without any problems, without much expense, either in terms of money or in terms of time.

No. 2 – Freon leak in a two-compressor refrigerator

Dual-compressor refrigerators have two separate circuits. One compressor works for the freezer compartment, the second for the main compartment. Only a specialist can check the presence of freon. But there are two indirect signs:

The main compartment compressor is constantly running;
Copper freon tubes are warm.

If there is a freon leak, refilling alone is not enough. It is necessary to find the location of the leak and repair the crack. You can’t do this on your own, look for a specialist. You can find a good refrigeration specialist in your city on a specialized portal for finding craftsmen.

No. 3 – Freon leak in a double-circuit refrigerator

There are models of refrigerators with one compressor and two circuits. The first circuit simultaneously cools the main chamber and the freezer. The second circuit cools only the freezer.

In such refrigerators, periodic switching between circuits occurs. If there is a refrigerant leak in the primary circuit, the refrigerator will not work and the freezer will freeze. If there is a refrigerant leak, the following symptoms will occur:

A regular compressor will run constantly;
The copper tubes of the primary circuit will heat up;
An inverter compressor will operate with sudden changes in speed.

If the symptoms are similar, there may be another reason - problems with the defrost valve. Read about it below. If there is a refrigerant leak, it is difficult to solve the problem yourself. It’s better to find a good refrigeration mater so as not to cause trouble.

Why doesn't the upper chamber freeze?

Beko refrigeration equipment has its own freezing system with a special freon circuit. Therefore, if the main compartment stops cooling, the freezer works without problems. This occurs when there are problems with the seal, a clogged drain tube, or a malfunction of the air sensor.

When figuring out why the equipment is malfunctioning, you should make sure that the board is working properly. She often burns out. Therefore, experts recommend connecting devices with an electronic control unit only using a stabilizer. A similar requirement applies to models with linear inverter compressors.

No. 4 – Defrost valve sticking

Refrigerators with one compressor and two circuits have a defrost valve. With its help, switching between circuits occurs. As it wears out, the defrost valve may stick (seize). In this case, the compressor will work on only one circuit.

If the main (larger) circuit is at room temperature, there is most likely a valve problem. You cannot replace it yourself. As a half measure, you can defrost the refrigerator. If the valve is frozen, this will help for a while.

If the valve is stuck, it needs to be replaced. You won't be able to do this on your own. When replacing, it will be necessary to top up the refrigerant. And this can only be done with the help of special equipment.

No. 5 – No power supply

If your refrigerator is more than 5 years old, there may be problems with the power supply. Wiring does not last forever; it wears out over time. The main elements that ensure normal temperature in the main chamber:

Compressor;
Temperature sensor;
Thermostat.

Checking the power supply to the temperature sensor is simple. First determine where it is (look in the instructions). After this, remove the housing and check the power supply with an indicator screwdriver.

To check the power supply to the compressor you do not need to disassemble anything. It is located at the bottom of the refrigerator at the back. Locate the power terminals and check the voltage with an indicator screwdriver. How to do this - watch the video:

Checking the power supply to the thermostat is more difficult. It is located on the front of the refrigerator, usually behind the temperature control. But if you don't want to look for a refrigerator, you can try to do it yourself. You need to check the power supply using the same indicator screwdriver.

No. 6 – Compressor failure

If there is power to the compressor, check its operation. There are two types of compressors - inverter and conventional. Inverter models work constantly, but at different speeds. Conventional ones operate in start-stop mode. They turn on and off.

To check the operation of the inverter compressor, open the refrigerator door. The compressor should start working at a higher speed. At the same time, it will begin to vibrate a little. If this does not happen, there is a problem.

It will take more time to check how a regular compressor works. Open the refrigerator door and observe it. After a few minutes, the temperature of the sensor will rise and the compressor should turn on. Its vibration should be noticeable.

No. 9 – Thermostat failure

Refrigerators with one compressor have a common freon circuit. They have two evaporators, one cools the freezer compartment, the second cools the main one. To prevent the refrigerator from cooling below the desired temperature, a thermostat (thermostat) is installed between them.

A thermostat is a mechanical device. It regulates the amount of refrigerant that flows from the freezer evaporator into the main one. Its main element is a metal tension spring. Over time, the metal loses its elasticity and the thermostat works worse. Less refrigerant begins to enter the main chamber.

Reasons for increased cold formation

Some malfunctions in the operation of the refrigerator can be eliminated on your own, but in difficult situations you will have to pay a technician to diagnose and repair the equipment. Often the source of the problem is the following faults:

freon leak or blood clot in capillary tubes;
wear of the sealing rubber;
clogged drainage system;
breakdown of the thermostat or air sensor;
valve sticking in a single-compressor unit.

Where to look if the refrigerator starts to get too cold

Before looking for the cause of the malfunction, look at the temperature regulator: it could have been accidentally switched to low temperature mode. For the refrigerator compartment, the optimal position of the handle indicator is in the middle, which corresponds to +4 °C ... +6 °C. Try turning the thermostat knob, suddenly the spring is simply jammed.

Some modern refrigerators from the Bosch, Atlant, and Indesit brands have an additional item in the electronic program menu: super freezing or super cooling. When this function is activated, the temperature decreases by several degrees. These modes are designed to quickly cool added products so that increased heat transfer does not increase the work of the compressor. Pay attention to the method for disabling the freezing mode: if it is not automatic, it must be manually stopped.

How to fix a refrigerator that freezes too much

Suppose the temperature adjustment did not lead to the desired result, and the unit is too cold, then an external inspection should be continued.

It is impossible to leave equipment in a faulty condition, as increased load on the compressor can lead to an emergency shutdown.

Seal wear

Due to the rubber drying out, cracks and kinks appearing on it, the refrigerator door does not close tightly, and warm air constantly enters the chambers. In this case, the back wall is covered with snow, and water stands in the drainage system without having time to evaporate. The compressor does not stop, trying to maintain the set temperature, and freezes food beyond necessity. The food in the depths of the compartment freezes. The situation can be corrected; to do this, you will have to change the old seal.

No Frost system failure

An imbalance occurs during the defrosting of one of the chambers of the No Frost refrigerator: the freezer tends to increase the temperature to remove ice, and the adjacent compartment tends to lower it. Normally, they should work in cooperation. This can happen when the capillary system is clogged, when a blood clot forms in a thin tube, and the motor is unable to pump freon. What to do with refrigerant leakage through damaged structural elements? This type of breakdown will require cleaning and refilling.

Freon ran out

If your refrigerator is very cold, the reason for the breakdown may be that you have run out of freon. This substance helps lower the temperature in the chambers. The cause of its leakage may be cracks that form in its body. When you call specialists, they will be able to quickly find all the cracks and seal them. If the refrigerator does not turn off, then it may have run out.

Incorrect thermostat position

The most common cause of a severely frozen refrigerator is the incorrect position of the thermostat. You will need to inspect your device and if it is not set correctly, then you should set the temperature setting lower. This point must be checked first, since it is the easiest to eliminate. If you have a refrigerator with a switch, then it needs to be set to position 2 to 3.5. If your home has a new device installed that has a dial, then you need to set the temperature within +4 or +6 degrees.

It is important to know! New refrigerator models may have a super freeze button. If you have it, then you should check to see if it is enabled.

Blockage in the drainage system

There is cold air in the refrigerator, in the freshness zone there is a puddle of water with a crust of ice, and condensation flows down the back wall. Obviously, the moisture is not being drained outside the refrigerator compartment, and the cause may be a clogged drain tube. Cleaning and flushing the water drainage hole will save the situation. Using a thin flexible wire, carefully push the debris plug, and then pour warm water through the syringe or syringe several times under pressure into the outlet channel.

Cleaning operations should be carried out only after disconnecting the refrigerator from the network.

Broken thermostat or air sensor

Electromechanical refrigerators are equipped with a manual thermostat, which is usually located under the freezer compartment. When it fails, it is not noticeable from the outside, only the household appliance freezes or stops cooling altogether. The thermostat needs to be checked with a tester, and the problem can be solved on the spot. Otherwise, you cannot do without calling a specialist.

In models with an electronic control unit, the microclimate is monitored by a sensor. It is better not to penetrate the digital “brain” of a modern refrigerator yourself, but to entrust the matter to a professional.

Checking the Thermostat

Valve fault

A refrigerator with one compressor sometimes cools the food in the main compartment too much, and the temperature in the freezer is higher than the set temperature. This happens due to the fault of the electromagnetic switch at the junction of the circuits, which is supposed to alternate cooling modes, but for some reason it gets stuck. A new working part needs to be installed.

The listed reasons for malfunction are inherent in products from different manufacturers: Atlant and Indesit, Bosch and Samsung. An unexplained change in temperature in the refrigerator should alert you. It is always easier to fix something not very significant than to pay for expensive repairs or buy a new unit.

No. 10 – Dirt in the pipes

The evaporator capacity plays a major role in the operation of the refrigerator. Over time, it may become clogged and the freon will not cool the main chamber well. There is also a risk of the capillary tube becoming clogged. There are three reasons for blockages:

Poor quality compressor oil;
Incorrect oil type;
Low quality freon;
Contamination during repair work.

Bad refrigeration oil will degrade over time. Certain chemical reactions occur in it; it can become waxed. In this case, solid particles appear that settle on the walls of the evaporator, in the capillary tubes, and on the thermostat.

Each refrigerant has its own type of oil - mineral or synthetic. They also differ in viscosity. Incorrectly selected oil may decompose. The resulting substances settle on the walls of the evaporator, the thermostat, and in the capillary tube.

The quality of freon is determined by the content of impurities and water. It contains dozens of substances that cannot be completely eliminated. At high concentrations, they are able to settle on pipes and react with them. Excess water crystallizes into ice, making it difficult for the refrigerant to pass through.

When changing refrigerant, oil, soldering pipes and other work, there is a risk of contamination. Dirt can get into them from outside. When soldering pipes, there may be leftover solder inside. All this leads to the formation of narrowed areas. They interfere with the normal circulation of freon.

It is impossible to determine a clogged freon line or evaporator by eye. Only a specialist can diagnose it. Most often, the evaporator will have to be removed and replaced with a new one. Not all stains can be removed.

Why does the refrigerator not work, but the light bulb and light are on?

Any household appliance breaks down over time, and the refrigerator is no exception. This situation is especially unpleasant in the warm season and requires urgent measures to restore performance. If your device has not yet fully exhausted its service life, then the cause of the problem is most likely a breakdown of one of the internal parts, replacing which you can continue to operate. In this article you will find practical tips on how to diagnose and fix common faults, some of which you can do yourself.

The refrigerator does not work, but the light is on: the main reasons

If your refrigerator does not turn on, do not rush to call a specialized workshop or remember the phone number of a familiar technician. Having spent a small amount of time inspecting it and simply checking that the connection is correct, you may find the cause of the failure yourself and be able to eliminate it using available methods. Even if it is impossible to carry out repairs on your own, a competent description of the symptoms of the problem when contacting a specialist will help him prepare for the departure, taking with him the necessary spare parts. Advice! The cause of the malfunction may be outside the household device. First of all, check for voltage in the outlet to which the refrigerator is connected. To do this, just plug in any other electrical device.

When you open the refrigerator door, the light always comes on. If it does not light up at the same time as there is no cold in all internal compartments, the reason must be sought in the power supply system. Here the plug may break or the power cable may break. A more difficult situation is when the refrigerator does not work, but the light in the compartment is on. In this case, the noise of the motor is not heard and the relay does not click. Then you will have to check several possible failure options typical for this case.

Thermostat failure

The thermostat is a sensor located inside the refrigerator. Most often it can be found next to the light bulb. He is responsible for maintaining the required temperature in the freezer or general compartment.

There may be several such devices in a multi-chamber device. When certain temperature limits are reached, the regulator closes and opens the electrical circuit, giving the appropriate commands to start and stop the compressor motor.

Checking the health of the sensor will consist of closing the input and output terminals. In this way, its normal operation is simulated when the temperature rises. If the engine starts, you will have to replace the thermostat with a new one.

Defrost button sticks out

Pressing the defrost button prevents the engine from starting. If it is locked in the wrong position and does not return, it must be changed. You can verify the failure of this simplest device in the same way - by connecting the wires directly, bypassing the button.

Faulty start and protection relay

To perform the test, you will need a multimeter. The suspicious part is disconnected from the electrical circuit and its resistance is checked. Deviation from the norm indicates a breakdown. If you are not sure of the sufficiency of your qualifications as an electrician, feel free to call a specialist.

Problems with the electronic control board

The electronic control board is the brain of a modern refrigerator. It has a complex structure. Attempts to make corrections to its internal structure will not lead to anything good. Typically, such devices cannot be repaired. It should be diagnosed and replaced by an experienced specialist.

Compressor failure

Compressor failure is a serious problem. In most cases, breakdowns occur not due to failure of the mechanical part of the freon compression unit, but due to failure of the electrical equipment of the engine. These include:

interturn closure;
break of winding wires;
insulation breakdown with a short circuit to the housing.

Common mechanical failures include, first of all, bearing destruction and jamming of moving parts. Repairing the compressor and its engine is complex and economically unjustified. It is easier and cheaper to install a new unit designed for refrigerators of this brand. The compressor must be replaced by a qualified technician.

Incorrect installation of the unit

Sometimes, when installing a new refrigerator in a niche intended for it in a kitchen unit, the ventilation gaps or vertical position are not maintained. The reason for the high temperature in the chambers in this case may be poor airflow to the coil located on the rear wall. A similar negative effect occurs when heating appliances are too close to your refrigerator or freezer.

Even a door that doesn't close properly can seriously affect the performance of the equipment. In addition, models with intelligent filling block the motor from turning on if there is a gap between the door and the body, displaying a corresponding error code on the electronic display. In such cases, calling a refrigeration technician does not make sense, and you have to solve the problem yourself.

Advice! Don't overestimate your capabilities. The presented list of typical problems does not cover all possible situations. If you have any doubts about the correct determination of the cause of the malfunction, do not begin repairs yourself, but use the services of a specialist.

No. 11 – Damage during transportation

During transportation, lifting and installation, there is a risk of damaging the copper tubes and heat exchanger. The radiator on the rear wall can be inspected visually. And copper tubes can be damaged in the compressor area.

It is also important to wait a while before turning on the refrigerator after transport. If you don't do this, there is a risk of seriously harming him. We wrote how many hours the refrigerator should stand in this article: https://vteple.xyz/pochemu-nelzja-vkljuchat-holodilnik-srazu-posle-dostavki/.

During transportation there is a risk of damaging the refrigerator body. Moisture will penetrate into the thermal insulation through the crack and saturate it. The properties of the insulating material will deteriorate, and heat will penetrate into the chamber.

No. 12 – Airflow problems in No Frost

Refrigerators with the No Frost system (Full No Frost, Total No Frost) have forced ventilation of the chamber. For it, one or more fans are installed behind the rear panel. If they fail, there will be no effective cooling.

It is easy to check how the system works. There are holes on the back of the camera. Cooled air is blown through them. Just open the door and wait for the compressor to turn on. Place your hand near the holes and check if there is a stream of air coming out of them.

If the fans do not work, there are two reasons: the fans are broken and there is no power supply. It's easy to check - remove the back panel and use an indicator screwdriver. If there is voltage, but the fans are not working, you can replace them yourself.

No Frost refrigerator is very cold

No Frost is considered a complex system for transferring cold from the evaporator to the chamber. The evaporator radiator is located behind the wall, there is also a fan that forcibly blows air from the chamber through the gaps between the cold tubes, taking away the cold. Cold air enters the chamber, and heated air, with moisture, approaches the evaporator, leaving frost on the tubes. When the compressor stops, the heating element periodically turns on, and the melted water is removed into the drain.

Why does a refrigerator with No Frost start to get very cold? The evaporator and the entire air cooling system are located in the freezer compartment. The cold chamber receives cold through an air duct with a damper. If the defrosting system of the evaporator tubes does not work, it becomes overgrown with ice, and heat transfer decreases.

There is not enough cold in the upper chamber, the compressor will work, cold air flows constantly. At this time, the freezer compartment in the refrigerator is very cold. Why? The compressor runs for a long time. Later the fan will stop, its blades will ice up or it will jam. The temperature will begin to rise in both chambers.

In the upper chamber, the temperature at No Frost may drop if the drainage hole is clogged and the water does not drain out. The refrigerator will be too cold. Droplets from the air will begin to condense on the walls and freeze, blown by cold air. The temperature in the positive chamber will drop to 0 0 C and below.

No. 13 – Problems with the control board

This breakdown is the most difficult from a diagnostic point of view. Modern refrigerators have an electronic control board that regulates everything. Starting from the operation of the display and settings keys, ending with the control of the compressor.

Only a specialist can determine whether the control board is faulty. With work experience, specific knowledge and skills. In mid- and premium-class models, such a breakdown occurs infrequently. In cheap Asian-assembled refrigerators, the control board may fail in the first years of operation of the refrigerator.

Question answer

After a power surge

Check the RCDs and circuit breakers on the panel in the apartment or house, perhaps the “plugs” have simply been knocked out.
If it doesn’t freeze after a strong voltage drop, the surge protector built into the case has failed.
The motor winding burned out.
The electronic control board is burnt out.

The last three problems will require major repairs, so be careful.

After moving or relocating

Remember, when dragging you didn’t hit a hard surface or dropped it on your side?

If you fall on your side, there is a risk that the motor inside the compressor unit (that black thing at the back under the radiator) will fly off the spring-loaded guides, bend the tubes and the system will stop cooling.
The loaders hit the radiator against the wall and the circuit depressurized. There will be a specific unpleasant smell. You'll have to look for the leak and refill the freon.

The problem occurs after defrosting

If after defrosting your unit stops cooling, don’t panic right away. Perhaps it is simply reaching the required temperature. Wait about a day. During this time, the device will return to operating mode.

If after 24 hours the problem has not disappeared, and the engine runs almost without interruption, then one of the troubles described above has occurred. In this case, you will have to find the problem and carry out repairs.

One of the cameras is not working

Sometimes one of the chambers, upper or lower, is not cooled, it doesn’t matter.

The reasons are a little higher.