Well-groomed hands and a beautiful manicure are an integral part of the image of a modern girl. Increasingly, to carry out this procedure, girls choose special equipment - a milling cutter for hardware manicure and pedicure. Its use allows you to get a clean manicure, easily reach hard-to-reach places, create an even and neat coating “under the cuticle,” and also remove overgrown gel polish without soaking or exposure to chemicals that often cause allergic reactions.
However, sometimes even a professional manicurist finds it difficult to choose the appropriate model of apparatus for manicure and pedicure among the abundance of offers. Let's look at the types of routers, their key characteristics and differences.
Components of the device - quick guide
The device is a power supply with a connected router handle. The cutter attachments are attached to the handle; their choice depends on the stage of work and the area being worked on. The machine works from the network.
Some models are equipped with foot pedals for turning on and off, or speed pedals, which make it possible to regulate the speed of rotation of the cutters by the intensity of pressure.
The pedal is not critical for manicure work. All the necessary levers and buttons are located on the power supply:
- Forward - forward;
- Reverse - back;
- Stop, shutdown;
- Speed.
It is important that the power supply delivers the required power. If it does not produce this power, then the handle does not create the required resistance, and the cutter slips. The minimum required operating power to perform manicure and pedicure is from 30 W. This information is located on the bottom of the device. We'll talk more about power below.
The power supply often contains cells for cutters and a stand for a pen. There is also a power-on indicator light.
Forward or reverse mode is switched by a lever on the power supply. If the handle does not indicate digital speed data, then the scale can be divided into three modes: low, medium and high speeds:
- Low – 5,000 – 7,000 rpm,
- Average – 15,000 – 17,000
- High – 25,000 – 30,000.
Hand – Foot - switches between control modes manually or using a foot pedal.
In models without pedals, the rotation speed of the cutters is controlled by a switch on the power supply. The speed can be adjusted in several modes or arbitrarily set to the desired number of revolutions, depending on the desired intensity in each area being worked.
Please note that some routers come with a built-in overload fuse. If large volumes of work are planned, in the salon, for example, or the voltage often fluctuates, then this nuance is worth taking into account.
The average service life of the motor is 7 years with an average flow of customers. For many craftsmen, the device lasts longer with careful handling and low workload.
The price list of professional devices is from 7,000 to 15,000 rubles. This is the optimal price combination of price and quality.
Differences between an expensive router and a cheap one:
- quality of manufacturing material;
- fewer settings functions;
- the quality of the bearings and alignment during rotation, which gives a burning sensation and vibration;
- a rougher result of nail filing;
- service life - cheap ones quickly fail;
- insufficient actual power: even at a high declared speed, the device does not pull.
Hardware manicure - answering frequently asked questions
The best devices are Korean-made models.
Popular:
- Strong the most popular model 210 with different handles 102 or 105L
- Marathon is a Korean brand, slightly cheaper in cost than Strong, but not inferior in quality.
Safety regulations
Now there are many master classes and video lessons with the help of which you can learn how to beautifully treat your nails and fingers. You also need to follow safety precautions:
- The device cannot be used suspended; both elbows must be placed on the work surface. It doesn't matter how you lean. Let it be comfortable.
- The nail is treated with short, but sliding and smooth movements, no more than 3 seconds. Do not allow the router to cut into the nail.
- The device must be kept parallel to the work surface at all times.
- Pressure force is also considered a relevant criterion. The handle must be constantly moving.
- It is necessary to bring hygiene skills to automaticity. Before treating nails with nail polish remover, remove the old coating, then keep your fingers in a bath of warm water, wipe and disinfect. The cutters must also be treated with a special liquid. Professionals use heat treatment of tools.
- When using nozzles, you should start with coarse-grained ones and gradually move on to fine abrasiveness and polishing.
Criteria for choosing a device for beginners
Before starting to search for the desired model of device, a novice master needs to decide whether he will do only manicures, or whether it will be manicures and pedicures. This is due to the fact that the power of some models may not be enough to carry out a pedicure procedure, and it is worth purchasing in advance one that will allow you to perform the service efficiently.
- Output power : for manicure 30-60 W, 2 Nm torque, for pedicure - at least 35-65 W, 2 Nm torque. Ideally, for manicure, about 60 W and 2 Nm, for pedicure, at least 65 W and 2.8 Nm torque. With less than the specified power, the milling cutter will not last long and will quickly fail.
- Speed , revolutions per minute. For professional use, we recommend a device with a cutter speed of 30,000 rpm for manicure and artificial material, and 35,000 rpm and higher for pedicure. For home use, you can consider models up to 25,000 rpm.
- Collapsible handles . Please note that the handle must be dismountable in order to be able to change brushes, springs, and collets during operation. If the handle is not removable, you will simply have to order it separately if it fails, and the cost of the handle is often equal to the cost of the entire device.
- Availability of reverse mode . Facilitates the work of the master, a prerequisite when choosing a model for the salon.
- Manufacturer . Give preference to a router made in Korea or the EU. Cheap Chinese machines often break down, and repairs can cost as much as the cost of the router itself.
- Equipment:
Housing made of metal or plastic (a metal housing is more convenient if repairs are necessary);
Handle with rotation speed 25000-35000 rpm . Choose according to the characteristics of your hand. The handle should lie comfortably between your fingers and be mobile when processing hard-to-reach areas. There are models with a wide and narrowed end. With a narrow one it is more convenient to do a manicure, with a wide one it is more convenient to do a pedicure;
Repair kit with fuses and spare brushes for the handle;
Bag with several compartments;
Basic set of cutters;
Foot pedal - for salon models.
Model line Strong
Strong is a Korean-made device, loved by craftsmen due to its practicality, power and ease of use.
There are a number of models, each of which has its own advantages. These are models 793, 90N, 210 and 207.
- Strong 90N at 30,000 rpm - designed for a manicure procedure, it will be difficult to do a pedicure with it. 120 handle.
- Strong 90N at 35,000 rpm - for manicure and pedicure. 102l handle.
- Strong 210 at 30,000 rpm - only for manicure, without pedal. 120 handle.
- Strong 210 at 35,000 rpm - for manicure and pedicure. 105l handle.
- Strong 207 at 35,000 rpm - for manicure and pedicure. Handle 107-2.
Each model is equipped with handles of different power and rotation speed. The data is indicated directly on it.
Advantages of the line:
- Availability of models of different prices, from budget to more expensive
- The ability to choose a powerful milling cutter for working in a salon, which allows you to do both manicures and pedicures
- Long service life without breakdowns, reliability
- Beautiful aesthetic appearance of popular models
- Metal body
- Removable handles for easy repair and cleaning if necessary
- Compactness
- Manufacturer Korea, factory line, 12 month warranty.
Flaws:
- If there is a fuse, it may stop after 10 minutes of operation if it overheats. You have to wait until it cools down.
- Some people are bothered by the silicone stand, which also needs to be placed in the work area, which takes up space.
- The router may seem noisy during prolonged use
- Heavily advertised, which affects the price.
How to choose nozzles
The devices come with a different number of attachments. There is no point in looking for a set with the largest number of cutters. They can always be purchased separately.
The main accessories for working at home include:
- Ceramic attachments are suitable for removing cuticles. To remove keratinization - silicon. Diamond is useful for finishing and shape correction.
- The easiest way to correct the shape is with a ceramic nozzle with diamond chips or made of hard metals. It should be conical, cylindrical or flat in shape.
- Polishing is carried out only with silicone caps. They carefully process the plate and give it a pleasant shine.
Three basic attachments are enough to perform your first home manicure. Based on all of the above criteria, it is easy to buy a semi-professional router. Device ratings help simplify this process. 5 popular models are shown below.
Marathon lineup
Marathon is designed for use in a salon. Can withstand up to 12 hours of continuous use. It is considered one of the most reliable, even in comparison with the “strongs”. Manufacturer – Korea. Milling cutters of this line are considered analogues of Strong at a lower cost.
Advantages:
- The presence of holes for cutters in the upper part, so as not to clutter the workplace.
- Heavy metal handle with plastic coating, tapered towards the edge. Cooled by air flow (only on Strong and Marathon models)
- The cutters go deep into the hole in the handle, which ensures reliable fixation and absence of vibrations (compared to cheap models)
- Corresponds to the declared power and speed, which significantly affects the quality of work and the manicure/pedicure itself
- The reverse mode, which quickly fails or stalls on Chinese models, on Strong and Marathon will last for years without breakdowns
- Cost: cheaper than models from the Strong line and with the same, if not better, quality.
Flaws:
- Some craftsmen note the white color of the device as a disadvantage due to soiling and the need for additional cleaning of the surface.
In general, the lines of these devices can be called leaders for professional and home use due to the optimal combination of price and quality.
Choosing a device between Strong 210/120 and Marathon N2
Removing unnatural nails
To remove extended nails with a router, you must follow the instructions, otherwise there is a chance of damaging the natural plate. Treating one finger can take up to 10 minutes:
- First you need to reduce the working area - for this you use a crankcase or nail clippers. The procedure is carried out carefully to protect the gel from cracking.
- Then you need a cutter with a coarse-grain coating - this will allow you to cut down the gel layer to the desired thickness. Other attachments should not be used. During work, a lot of dust appears, the shooting particles can damage the eyes, so you need to use goggles and respiratory protection.
- After removing the artificial plates, the nail is polished. During this process, the device is moved so that the nail itself does not heat up.
Regarding acrylic materials, there is some addition - they are removed not only mechanically, but also by treatment with solvents. The above method is also involved in these actions: when removing the top coating and final grinding of the plate.
To remove gel polish, different attachments are used. The best choice is a ceramic cutter. It does not heat up and removes coating perfectly. The downside is the cost of about 1,500 rubles. Carbide cutters are cheaper. They are 4 times cheaper, but during operation it is necessary to set high speeds, which in the absence of experience can lead to burns.
Whatever removal method is chosen, after the procedure the nails need care and restoration. In order to prevent infections and the development of inflammation, this moment should not be ignored.
RuNail lineup
RuNail devices are intended for both salon and home use, for manicure and pedicure.
Craftsmen prefer it because of its power, comfortable handle and reliability in operation.
Advantages:
- The power and speed of the milling cutter correspond to the declared ones, which ensures high quality work in capable hands
- The presence of a pedal, hands free for additional small and precise movements
- Speed, shutdown and reverse are controlled by a slider and a toggle switch on the main unit of the device.
Flaws:
- A set of low-quality cutters included. You will have to purchase a basic or advanced set of good quality in addition to get started.
- 1 month warranty. In online stores – 3 months.
- The handle is not removable; if it breaks, you will have to purchase a new one.
Experts describe the device as one of the best in the budget price category. Initially, it is worth purchasing high-quality cutters, and you can use it both at home and on the road, and when working in the salon.
Milling cutters for the device: types, purpose, how to choose and use in manicure and pedicure
Which is better – edged or hardware manicure:
We are constantly looking for the most gentle ways to get our hands in order. The aggressive trimmed manicure was replaced by the European one, with its careful processing of the cuticle without removing it. However, this technology is not suitable for everyone.
Hardware manicure is the next step towards the development of the nail industry. Its undoubted advantages:
- The cutter carefully removes only dead skin particles without damaging the cuticle, as often happens when trimming with tweezers. As a result, there is no danger of wounds with further possibility of infection. Not only thin, but also denser cuticles are effectively removed, leaving the nail hole smooth and neat.
- To perform a classic manicure with high quality, hands are first steamed in a bath, which provokes the spread of fungal diseases. Hardware treatment is performed on dry skin, so it is much more hygienic.
- After gentle removal with a cutter, the cuticle grows longer and does not become rough, as with a trimmed manicure.
- Problematic nails are treated delicately: brittle, flaking, uneven, damaged by improper extensions. As a result, any gel polish then fits and lasts much better on them.
- The skin around the nails looks healthier and more well-groomed. You can also use a cutter to remove calluses from your fingers if they have formed from work.
- The procedure is easy to carry out at home. It is enough to go through video training, watch relevant lessons and step-by-step photos from professionals, and then practice a little to achieve tangible success. The machine for hardware manicure is so easy to use that high-quality nail treatment will not be a problem even for beginners.
- All necessary operations are performed in 30–50 minutes. For a trimmed manicure, the master will need 1.5 hours.
Machine processing is often called the improved European method. Problems can only arise if the nails are in very poor condition. It will not be possible to bring them back to normal in one session.
TNL MP-18
The device meets the minimum professional requirements for performing manicure and pedicure, and can be used to provide services both in a salon with a small flow of clients, and at home.
Specifications:
- Power 30 W;
- Rotation speed – 30,000 rpm;
- Availability of reverse mode;
- The presence of a pedal;
- Collet type clamp.
Manufacturer – South Korea. The speed control knob is located on the front panel of the power supply. There are also stands-holes for cutters that are used for the procedure.
Advantages:
- Comfortable handle;
- Basic set of 4 cutters in the starter kit;
- Availability of reverse mode;
- Foot pedal;
- Collet clamp for fastening cutters;
- No vibration during operation;
- Minimal noise.
Flaws:
- It cannot cope with a large flow of clients; the device periodically needs time to cool down.
Planet Nails Prime
In the Planet Nails series, this is one of the top options for milling cutters, which is suitable for professional use in the salon. Assembly - South Korea.
Specifications:
- Power 45 W;
- Reverse mode;
- Handle weight 200 g;
- Collet type clamp.
The device comes without cutters and pedals. It has a high cost compared even to classic “strong” ones.
Advantages:
- Modern design;
- Comfortable handle, does not heat up;
- Low noise;
- Availability of reverse;
- Long cord;
- High power for pedicures.
Flaws:
- High price;
- Lack of pedal;
- You will need to buy cutters separately to start.
Pen
A pen is the most important part of any craftsman’s apparatus. Why? Because it is used to treat nails. If it lies uncomfortably in your hand, then you will not be able to do a manicure or pedicure correctly, moreover, it can harm the client, because any awkward movement with the cutter will cause injury. Therefore, take into account how comfortable it is for you to hold the handle, what kind of coating it has, hence the point - does it slip out of your hands, is it too heavy, does it vibrate. The most important thing is that you should feel that the handle of the device is an extension of your hand.
Irisk JD 400
The device is suitable for home and salon use by beginners. It is recommended specifically for initial practice, as it copes with the necessary functions, gives you the opportunity to get better at it, and at the same time has a low cost in comparison with leading brands.
Specifications:
- Power 35 W;
- Speed 25,000 rpm;
- Reverse mode.
Advantages:
- Low noise, no vibration;
- Suitable for novice craftsmen working at low speeds to get the hang of it;
- Comfortable and light handle;
- Price;
- Compact and lightweight processor;
- Long handle cord;
- Presence of reverse.
Flaws:
- The starter set of attachments is not of the best quality;
- May not be able to cope with complex pedicures that require lengthy work;
- No foot pedal.
Description of cutters for hardware manicure
Diamond tips work best with thin cuticles; you can “trust” them with the most complex nails. However, the cost of such products is high. When performing hardware manicure at home, two cone-shaped diamond cutters of different diameters will be quite sufficient.
Diamond cutters
Ceramic cutters
Advice: ceramic nozzles are ideal for beginner craftswomen. They are considered the safest because they do not injure the skin and do not heat up during operation.
Pay attention to the markings of the cutters. For manicure, you usually need a tool with a red and blue line, which means low and medium abrasiveness, respectively.
Which attachments should I use for what?
Type of cutter | Function | |
Boron (ball) | Thins and gently removes the keratinized part of the cuticle, polishes the nail fold | |
Flame | Treatment of the lateral sinuses | |
Cone with rounded point | Cleaning the pterygium, making the side ridges smooth. | |
Frustum | Sanding the skin adjacent to the nail plate | |
Reverse cone | Forming the free edge of the nail during a French manicure | |
Rounded cylinder | A universal tool. Lifts cuticles, cleans nails from pterygium, polishes, removes artificial coating. | |
Needle | Deep cleaning of the lateral sinuses and sinuses | |
Silicone polisher | Adding gloss to the nail plate and surrounding skin |