Frost on the refrigerator compressor tube. Problems with freezing of the compressor evaporator on a refrigerator

After manufacturers switched from freon R12 to more environmentally friendly and ozone-friendly gases R134a and R600 (Isobutane), the problem of clogged capillary tubes became relevant. The capillary tube will act as a regulator for the supply of refrigerant to the refrigerator. Moreover, its diameter is very small - on average 0.5 mm in household refrigerators.

During operation of the refrigerator, gas is mixed with oil in the compressor and circulated through the system. If the oil is of low quality or the refrigerator is operated in improper conditions (for example, it overheats, is in a hot room, its condenser (radiator) is clogged with dust), then it is natural that the oil overheats and decomposes into its component parts, settling on the walls of the tubes. This creates blood clots that impair the circulation of refrigerant in the system. The capillary tube is soldered into a filter that collects moisture and debris that has entered or formed in the system over the years of operation. But he doesn’t always save.

The principle of operation of the refrigerator

Frost on the shelves or walls of the refrigerator means that the temperature inside the refrigerator is too low.

The technical characteristics of the model have a direct impact on the quality of operation. There are different types of refrigerators.

• Single-chamber (motor-compressor drives freon particles through the condenser, cooling them to a liquid state. Next, through the filter, the liquid enters the evaporator, boils and takes heat from the latter, thereby cooling the refrigerator space. The cycles of turning the compressor on and off maintain a certain temperature simultaneously in the refrigerator and freezer compartments). From a technical point of view, a single-chamber refrigerator is a refrigeration cabinet in which there is only one refrigeration circuit and, accordingly, there can be only one compressor.
• Two-chamber (there are two evaporators here, each compartment has its own. Freon does not enter the adjacent chamber until the required temperature is reached inside the first compartment). A two-chamber model is a better option if you were planning to choose a refrigerator with a good freezer for your home so that store products for a long time.
• Models with solenoid valves (innovative technologies of this kind are analogous to a two-chamber refrigerator, with the idea of ​​installing a valve that regulates the supply of refrigerant alternately to the evaporator of each chamber). In refrigerators with two independent cooling circuits, you can set the desired temperature in each compartment.
• No Frost system devices (in this refrigerator, detection of ice on the back wall is excluded, since the evaporator is either absent or hidden from view in the refrigeration chamber). Refrigerators with the No Frost system are easy to use and, in most cases, fully satisfy the needs of customers.

Diagnosing a clogged capillary tube

Signs of poor refrigerant circulation:

• The refrigerator works and does not turn off (ice builds up in the refrigerator compartment)
• There is no cold in the refrigerator compartment (the freezer compartment is working)
• The refrigerator works, but does not cool (the engine cycles under load), it happens very rarely when it is 100% clogged
• The refrigerator does not cool, but after being turned off for a couple of hours it starts working (When the refrigerator is turned off, the gas passes from a liquid to a gaseous state, as a result of which the pressure in the system rises, which can break through the capillary, but not for long.

Let's determine the diagnosis more accurately:

• We turn on the refrigerator and hold on to the discharge tube (if the tube starts to heat up and after a couple of minutes begins to cool down, then most likely it is clogged);
• The capacitor heats up by half;
• We wipe the condenser with a wet rag (remove all dust and dirt that interferes with gas cooling). If part of the condenser has become cold and does not heat up at all, this indicates that the gas compressed by the compressor has cooled and is standing in the condenser, that is, the capillary does not allow it into the evaporator in the required quantity.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that after cleaning the condenser from dust with a clogged system, the refrigerator may stop cooling completely! This will be due to the fact that the pressure in the condenser will drop and the gas will flow more slowly due to clogging of the capillary tube

Concept of a return pipe in a refrigerator

The return pipe goes from the compressor to the inside of the refrigerator. This is part of the cooling system, it is connected to the motor pipe. In properly functioning refrigeration equipment, minor freezing of this part is allowed. However, the frost area should not be more than 10 cm, starting from the exit from the refrigeration housing.

The role of the return pipe in the unit

The return pipe plays the role of a control device in refrigeration equipment. It allows you to close the entire system of the unit, consisting of:

1. motor - compressor;
2. evaporator with condenser.

If it becomes covered with frost, this means that there has been a failure in the smooth operation of the system.

Defect – the filling dose of freon is too high

4 increased temperature of the filter drier, capillary; the filter and capillary can simply be hot if overfilled. 5 freezing of the return pipe up to the motor-compressor branch pipe; during long-term operation of the refrigerator, the thickness of the frost cover can reach 2 - 3 cm.

Dose adjustments should be made at a steady state, i.e. after running in the refrigeration unit for at least 1 hour. Measure the suction pressure, if it is more than 0.08 MPa (R134a), freon is released to the specified pressure. Bleed off the freon in stages, after each reduction in the amount of freon in the refrigeration unit, let the refrigerator operate for 5 minutes. The filling rate is controlled by the degree of freezing of the suction line; it should freeze no more than 10 cm from the outlet of the tube from the refrigerator body. As the amount of freon approaches the filling rate, the frost boundary on the return pipe will begin to move away from the compressor towards the evaporator.

Why does a refrigeration compressor freeze?

Insufficient refrigerant in the system is the result of a leak. Therefore, it must be detected and eliminated, and the system must be recharged with the missing amount of refrigerant. The location of a refrigerant leak can be easily detected visually by the presence of oil. If this is not enough, then use a leak detector. However, it is difficult to detect leaks using a leak detector when there is strong air circulation or high refrigerant concentration in an enclosed area. In these cases, a soap solution or liquid plastic is used to coat the suspicious compound. At the location of the refrigerant leak for 5 seconds. bubbles appear. If, when eliminating a leak, it is necessary to heat the pipeline, then the refrigerant is first released from it to prevent its release and, as a result, possible injury to the mechanic.

A dirty air filter on the air inlet side of the fan often causes low suction pressure in an air conditioning system by limiting airflow to the evaporator and reducing the heat load on the chiller.

Evaporator contamination is often the cause of low suction pressure in air conditioning systems and refrigeration machines. Less air passes through a dirty evaporator. Dirt on the body also reduces the heat transfer coefficient of the device. If the air filter is installed incorrectly or is clogged, then dust-laden air passes by the filter and dust settles on the evaporator fins. For the machine to function properly, the evaporator must be cleaned, and in some cases even removed and cleaned with a jet of steam. In this case, do not allow moisture to enter the refrigeration system.

A dirty fan does not supply the required amount of air to blow across the evaporator, as a result of which the required load on the evaporator is not created and the suction pressure will be low. The fan becomes dirty due to improper installation of the air filter or the filter becomes dirty during operation of the unit. The contaminated fan is removed and its blades are cleaned.

If the belt is stretched or damaged, normal operation of the fan and airflow to the evaporator are not ensured, therefore the load on the evaporator and the suction pressure are reduced. The stretched belt can be adjusted by tension, and the unit will work.

The main task is to eliminate problems in the operation of your refrigerator efficiently, in the shortest possible time and at an affordable price

• home
• Defect - the filling dose of freon is too high

Causes of ice

In order to understand why the compressor tube on the refrigerator freezes, you need to understand the processes that occur in the unit.

The operation of the device begins with the compressor compressing the refrigerant, as a result of which it heats up. The heated substance enters the radiator. In the radiator it cools almost to room temperature, and a large amount of it begins to condense. After this, the liquid and gas enter the expander together. A thin tube runs from the expander into the freezer, which is capable of passing exclusively liquid substances. Nothing can freeze or condense on it.

Then the liquid freon enters the heat exchange tube, which is located in the freezer. The excess heat from the freezer should cause the liquid in the suction tube to evaporate. It is at this moment that the temperature in the chamber drops to the one set on the control unit. Freon should leave the freezer exclusively in a gaseous state. If heat exchange is disrupted, there will be some admixture of liquid. The freon flowing back to the compressor begins to cool the moist, warm outside air. It turns into steam and as a result the tube may fog up, and in some cases become covered with frost and ice. This is considered the norm. Sometimes there can be too much ice.

The causes of excess ice and frost on the tube may be:

• the temperature in the freezer is too low;
• There is too much ice in the freezer due to which the refrigerant cannot absorb the required amount of heat.

The door seal is leaking

Due to poor sealing, heat from the external environment enters the unit. The evaporator does not have time to defrost because the motor is always on.

Signs of damage. The rear panel of the compartment is evenly covered with frost. The motor is almost always on, trying to maintain the set temperature.

Solution. Need a new seal.

Defect – the filling dose of freon is too high

4 increased temperature of the filter drier, capillary; the filter and capillary can simply be hot if overfilled. 5 freezing of the return pipe up to the motor-compressor branch pipe; during long-term operation of the refrigerator, the thickness of the frost cover can reach 2 - 3 cm.

Dose adjustments should be made at a steady state, i.e. after running in the refrigeration unit for at least 1 hour. Measure the suction pressure, if it is more than 0.08 MPa (R134a), freon is released to the specified pressure. Bleed off the freon in stages, after each reduction in the amount of freon in the refrigeration unit, let the refrigerator operate for 5 minutes. The filling rate is controlled by the degree of freezing of the suction line; it should freeze no more than 10 cm from the outlet of the tube from the refrigerator body. As the amount of freon approaches the filling rate, the frost boundary on the return pipe will begin to move away from the compressor towards the evaporator.

Thermostat failed

Refrigerators with an electromechanical control system have a thermostat, while refrigerators with an electronic control system have an air temperature sensor. He measures the temperature in the compartments. If the sensor is faulty, the “motor” receives incorrect temperature data and constantly turns on. Therefore, ice constantly forms on the back wall.

Symptom of malfunction. Very low temperature in the refrigerator and uniform freezing of the “fur coat”. The motor starts often, the intervals between starts are very short.

Solution. The temperature sensor needs to be replaced.

Freon leak

Checking the presence of freon in the refrigerator.

This is the name given to the refrigerant that constantly circulates in the system. It absorbs heat and releases cold. The substance has neither color nor odor, so its leakage can only be noticed by indirect signs. Leakage is most often observed in solder joints, which are also called locking joints, or in a weeping evaporator if it has been corroded.

Sign of breakdown. The motor runs all the time, thus compensating for the lack of refrigerant. A sheet of ice appears in the corner of the compartment. After defrosting, the refrigerator does not freeze at all.

Solution. The leak should be repaired and the system refilled with freon. If the evaporator is damaged, it most often has to be replaced.

Freon filling

Those who are familiar with the design of the equipment can try to solve the problem themselves. Refrigeration equipment repair specialists “Formula Cold” tell you how to do this.

To do this you will need:

• refrigerant - must match the brand of the refrigerator;
• vacuum pumping station, vacuum and pressure pump (it is better to borrow rather than buy, since this is expensive and little-used equipment on the farm);
• welding station (torch)
• solder according to the material from which the tube is made;
• flux;
• leak detector - helps to find the location of the freon outlet;
• filter drier - if it is not changed, moisture will be retained in the circuit, which will cause the refrigerator to fail again;
• Schrader valve - an analogue for a car is not suitable, since it is not capable of creating a vacuum and increased pressure;
• scales.

Freon R-600 needs to be weighed especially accurately. A deviation of even a couple of grams is critical. The refrigerant is weighed like this: put the cylinder on the scale, start pumping and at the same time monitor the weight loss.

Filling the circuit with refrigerant is carried out as follows:

1. The Schrader valve is connected to the service connection of the compressor. Repair equipment is connected through it.
2. The system is pressurized using a compressor pump. For aluminum tubes, a pressure of 15 atm is recommended, for copper tubes - 25 atm. If the pressure is unstable, then the tightness of the system is broken.
3. If depressurization is detected, the damaged area is found, for which a leak detector is used.
4. Solder the hole.
5. Repeat the pressure test.
6. Purge the system with nitrogen, removing excess moisture from the circuit. The cylinder is connected through the Schereder valve, and, if required, through a reducer.
7. Cut off the old filter drier.
8. The plugs are removed from the new filter and installed on the condenser. The seams are sealed. You need to act quickly: the cooling circuit must not be opened for more than 15 minutes.
9. Connect the vacuum pump station.
10. Pump out air and moisture for at least 15 minutes (maximum 30 minutes). When the process is completed, the needle on the pressure gauge drops to the indicator.
11. Fill the system with freon.
12. The pipe is sealed.

Expert opinion: Pavel Maksimovich Torsunov Those who are planning to fix the breakdown themselves are probably interested in what kind of freon to fill the refrigerator with. The masters of the “Formula of Cold” note that the brands R134 and R600, which are safe for ozone, are now used. In older models - R12. But it is better to purchase the refrigerant that is indicated on the nameplate (plate) of the refrigerator. The filling weight is indicated on the same plate.

According to those who have already encountered this problem, adding refrigerant is not a difficult task. User Ada Filatova writes: “Anyone can do it. We need freon and hands from the right place, cold welding and a few other little things.”

Types of refrigerants

Various liquids and gases are used as a refrigerant in refrigeration machines - ammonia, propane, freons (hydrocarbon mixtures). The refrigerant used in the refrigeration machine greatly affects both its characteristics and operating conditions. For example, an air conditioner charged with R-134a freon (boiling point -26.5 °C) at -30 outside will not work in heating mode at all - the freon simply will not boil in the outdoor unit. Moreover, trying to turn on the air conditioner under such conditions will most likely lead to its breakdown - liquid (not gas) entering the compressor usually disables it.

The lower the boiling point of the refrigerant, the lower the temperature can be obtained at the evaporator of the refrigeration machine. However, it most likely will not work to lower the temperature in the freezer by simply changing the freon to a “colder” one - refrigerants with a low boiling point require greater pressure for condensation. A compressor designed for freon with a high boiling point simply cannot create such pressure. Therefore, when replacing the refrigerant, you should follow the recommendations from the instructions, and do not charge refrigerant with characteristics that differ greatly from those recommended.

The most commonly used refrigerants in household appliances are:

Freon R22 (freon 22, chlorodifluoromethane) until recently was often used in refrigeration and freezing units. It has a fairly low boiling point (-40.8°C); in the event of a leak, the system can be refueled. However, due to the harm caused to the environment (depletion of the ozone layer), R22 has recently been rarely used, and in many countries it is completely prohibited.

R410A and R407C (chlorofluorocarbonate, boiling point -51.4°C) are used instead of R22. They do not harm the environment, but require more pressure for condensation, so equipment fueled with R410 or R407 is more expensive. In addition, if leaks occur in a system filled with these freons, problems may arise. These freons consist of several components that evaporate unevenly, so if the leakage is more than 40% R410A, refilling is no longer possible. The situation is even worse with R407C - if a leak occurs, the system must be completely recharged.

R134 (tetrafluoroethane) is used in air conditioners to replace the obsolete R12. The boiling point of R134 is -26.3°C, so it is not used in low-temperature technology. However, although R134 is not harmful to the ozone layer, it is a gas that enhances the greenhouse effect, so it cannot be called harmless.

R600a (isobutane) is increasingly used in refrigeration technology instead of the less environmentally friendly R134. Its advantages are low condensation pressure and high specific heat of vaporization - refrigerators using this freon are cheaper and more economical. However, due to the high boiling point (-12°C), equipment filled with it cannot be used outdoors at subzero temperatures.

It should also be remembered that each type of freon requires the use of a certain type of oil to lubricate the compressor parts. Usually the type (and sometimes the brand of oil) is given in the accompanying documentation for freon. Using other oils may damage the compressor.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in refrigeration equipment, and understanding the principles of its operation can significantly extend the life of the equipment, allow you to save on electricity and protect you from incorrect actions that can lead to damage to the device.

The capillary line is clogged

If clogged, the refrigerant circulation is disrupted. The cause is a clot of machine oil, also present in the circuit.

Sign of breakdown. The chamber does not cool enough, the motor is always active. The compressor gets very hot.

Solution. The system should be cleaned, filled with freon, checked, and, if necessary, replaced with oil.

The risk of clogging increases if low-quality oil is poured into the system, the refrigerator is placed against a wall or in a hot room, and the radiator is not cleaned of dust. The oil heats up and decomposes, contaminating the pipeline.

Pipeline cleaning

You can verify that the capillary tube is clogged only by opening the system. It is better to defrost the refrigerator first.

They do it like this:

1. Open the filling pipe.
2. Connect a pressure gauge and monitor the readings on the scale - the needle should not go into the zone with negative values, which corresponds to a vacuum.
3. Stability of the pressure indicator or its slight change when the engine is turned off indicates that an oil “thrombus” has formed.
4. They turn off the refrigerator, cut off the filling pipe - it sucks in air.
5. Cut off the capillary on the filter from which the refrigerant flows under pressure.

If suspicions are confirmed, proceed as follows:

1. The hydraulic press is soldered to the capillary tube.
2. Fill the equipment with the appropriate type of oil.
3. Press the product until the press handle stops resisting.
4. Capillary tube. Purge the tract with nitrogen.
5. Change the filter.
6. All passages are sealed.
7. Vacuum the system.
8. Fill the circuit with 15–20 g of freon.
9. Turn on the refrigerator for a few minutes, turn it off, and leave it to vacuum.
10. Fill in refrigerant by weight.
11. The refrigerator is turned on.

If the blockage is cleared, the condenser and filter will begin to warm up. After this, the refrigerator is turned off again and they wait until the arrow on the pressure gauge goes into the positive zone. Then disconnect the filling hose and screw on the cap.

Expert opinion Pavel Maksimovich Torsunov The capillary is cleaned only with the same type of oil that is in the circuit (mineral or synthetic). These products cannot be mixed. Otherwise, flakes will form, which will only aggravate the problem.

In extreme cases, you will have to reinstall the capillary tube. The “Your Cold” masters warn: this should be done only in extreme cases. The operation of the device after such a repair may be disrupted if it is not possible to find a tube of the correct cross-section. This will lead to a change in the freon dose. If soldering is incorrect, extraneous noise will appear and a refrigerant leak may occur.

The Vash Kholod service technicians emphasize that such repairs require a special, expensive tool. Professional services will cost much less.

If the reason is the sensor

Cooling food would be impossible without the normal functioning of the refrigerator's temperature sensor. This device monitors the temperature in the chambers and promptly sends signals to the compressor, forcing it to turn off or on. If the temperature relay is faulty, the motor runs continuously, the unit turns off spontaneously or freezes too much. In this case, you must immediately turn off the device from the network and call a technician.

Why does ice freeze on the back wall of the refrigerator?

Watch this video on YouTube

If the problem is ignored, the overloaded compressor, which operates continuously due to incorrect temperature fixation, will fail and the cost of repairs will increase several times.

If the problem is in the compressor

Refrigerator compressor

The compressor motor rarely fails. Its malfunction may be due to a violation of the seal of the chamber, breakdown of the casing and thermostat, mechanical damage, or loose fasteners. The malfunction can be identified by the following signs:

• noise, tapping and other extraneous sounds;
• the freezer does not work despite the sufficient level of refrigerant;
• the compressor does not pause.

It is almost impossible to repair the unit yourself, so you should immediately contact a specialist. If you delay, the compressor may finally break down due to premature wear.

Compressor overload

When the chamber is overloaded with products, especially if they block the fan, the compressor cannot cope with maintaining the desired temperature. The motor begins to work more intensely, making only short pauses, and the rear wall of the unit compartments becomes covered with ice. To prevent compressor breakdown, you need to unload the device, evenly distribute products on the shelves, and release the fan if access to it has been closed.

The insulating layer is frozen

In this case, the thermal insulation layer of the refrigerator cabinet becomes moistened by condensation and gets wet.

Symptom of malfunction. The back wall is unevenly covered with a thick ice cover.

Solution. Replace the damaged area of ​​the insulating material.

How do you repair home appliances? On your own I call a specialist

Shift solenoid valve malfunction

Solenoid valve.

In normal condition, the valve alternately cools both chambers or the freezer. Failure of a part leads to the fact that the temperature in the refrigeration chamber is significantly lower than it should be.

Signs of malfunction. The refrigerator temperature is too low. At the same time, the indicators in the freezer are higher than the specified parameters.

Solution. The valve needs to be replaced.

Relay failure

Refrigerator start relay

The refrigerator start relay is an element of the control system that closes the contacts of the thermostat when the temperature in the compartments drops below the set values. If this part breaks, ice freezes in the chamber, and then the device completely fails.

The following signs of a relay malfunction can be identified:

• The motor turns on, but after a short period of time it turns off again or does not start at all.
• The motor does not work, although current is supplied to it.

Checking and repairing the start relay should be entrusted to a specialist. When trying to fix the problem, the self-refrigerator may break down and cannot be repaired.

Violation of operating conditions

Refrigerator users often make the following mistakes:

• placement of not cooled products in the chamber;
• freezer overload;
• storage of unclosed containers with various liquids.

Only cooled food in sealed packaging may be placed in the refrigerator.

Freon leak

Checking the presence of freon in the refrigerator.
This is the name given to the refrigerant that constantly circulates in the system. It absorbs heat and releases cold. The substance has neither color nor odor, so its leakage can only be noticed by indirect signs. Leakage is most often observed in solder joints, which are also called locking joints, or in a weeping evaporator if it has been corroded.

Sign of breakdown . The motor runs all the time, thus compensating for the lack of refrigerant. A sheet of ice appears in the corner of the compartment. After defrosting, the refrigerator does not freeze at all.

Solution . The leak should be repaired and the system refilled with freon. If the evaporator is damaged, it most often has to be replaced.

Freon filling

Those who are familiar with the design of the equipment can try to solve the problem themselves. Refrigeration equipment repair specialists “Formula Cold” tell you how to do this.

To do this you will need:

• refrigerant - must match the brand of the refrigerator;
• vacuum pumping station, vacuum and pressure pump (it is better to borrow rather than buy, since this is expensive and little-used equipment on the farm);
• welding station (torch)
• solder according to the material from which the tube is made;
• flux;
• leak detector - helps to find the location of the freon outlet;
• filter drier - if it is not changed, moisture will be retained in the circuit, which will cause the refrigerator to fail again;
• Schrader valve - an analogue for a car is not suitable, since it is not capable of creating a vacuum and increased pressure;
• scales.

Freon R-600 needs to be weighed especially accurately. A deviation of even a couple of grams is critical. The refrigerant is weighed like this: put the cylinder on the scale, start pumping and at the same time monitor the weight loss.

Filling the circuit with refrigerant is carried out as follows:

1. The Schrader valve is connected to the service connection of the compressor. Repair equipment is connected through it.
2. The system is pressurized using a compressor pump. For aluminum tubes, a pressure of 15 atm is recommended, for copper tubes - 25 atm. If the pressure is unstable, then the tightness of the system is broken.
3. If depressurization is detected, the damaged area is found, for which a leak detector is used.
4. Solder the hole.
5. Repeat the pressure test.
6. Purge the system with nitrogen, removing excess moisture from the circuit. The cylinder is connected through the Schereder valve, and, if required, through a reducer.
7. Cut off the old filter drier.
8. The plugs are removed from the new filter and installed on the condenser. The seams are sealed. You need to act quickly: the cooling circuit must not be opened for more than 15 minutes.
9. Connect the vacuum pump station.
10. Pump out air and moisture for at least 15 minutes (maximum 30 minutes). When the process is completed, the needle on the pressure gauge drops to the indicator.
11. Fill the system with freon.
12. The pipe is sealed.

Expert opinion

Torsunov Pavel Maksimovich

Those who are planning to fix the problem themselves are probably interested in what kind of freon to fill the refrigerator with. The masters of the “Formula of Cold” note that the brands R134 and R600, which are safe for ozone, are now used. In older models - R12. But it is better to purchase the refrigerant that is indicated on the nameplate (plate) of the refrigerator. The filling weight is indicated on the same plate.

According to those who have already encountered this problem, adding refrigerant is not a difficult task. User Ada Filatova writes: “Anyone can do it. We need freon and hands from the right place, cold welding and a few other little things.”

How to fix a breakdown

If you notice that the refrigerator tube is often covered with frost or, even worse, a large amount of ice, then you can try to fix the problem yourself. There are several ways.

1. Defrost the refrigerator more often.
2. Change the freezer temperature to a higher temperature.
3. Wrap a little foam rubber around the tube, which will protect it from the humid air of the room in which the refrigerator is located.

In some cases, it may be necessary to top up the refrigerator with freon.

However, if you notice any problems with the refrigerator, you should seek qualified help from a technician. Only he will be able to correctly diagnose the problem and, using special tools, fix it in a short time.

Ice at the outlet is excess refrigerant in the system! In this case, the compressor may suffer a water hammer or burn out, because when the charge is excessive, the discharge pressure increases accordingly. The excess current can be released gradually.

Cold refrigerant gas comes out of the freezer, and if the heat exchange in the freezer is poor, then some liquid may also be released. This.

In a refrigerator with independent temperature control in the chambers (two thermostats), a uniform layer of ice has formed in the freezer compartment. At the same time, the refrigerator rarely turns off and works almost continuously.

The probable cause of ice formation is a failure of the freezer air temperature sensor. Due to a breakdown, it erroneously reports that it is not cold enough inside the freezer, thereby “forcing” the motor to freeze more intensely. As a result, the freezer becomes covered with a snow coat.

The temperature sensor needs to be replaced.

In a unit with independent temperature control in the chambers (two thermostats), the refrigerator compartment freezes, the back wall is covered with ice. The refrigerator motor runs with rare and short breaks.

A possible reason for ice freezing is failure of the refrigeration air temperature sensor.

More than 60% of refrigeration equipment breakdowns occur in the summer season. The main reasons for refrigerator breakdowns in summer are high air temperatures. It can be associated both with the summer heat and with improper placement of household appliances. Let's consider the most important recommendations that will extend the life of the miniature “north pole” and avoid breakdowns.

Drip defrost system: we eliminate the cause of water in the refrigerator compartment ourselves

1. Drain hose or hole is clogged. If water regularly accumulates in a refrigerator with a “crying” evaporator underneath the fruit and vegetable drawer, then most likely the drainage is clogged. Its purpose is to remove melt water from the refrigeration compartment into a special tank located near the compressor. Drain blockages occur due to the characteristics of the drip defrost system: dust, crumbs, food residues, etc. can get into the drainage hole along with drops of melt water (which can cause an unpleasant odor in the refrigerator). When the drain is clogged, the water cannot escape. It stands in the drainage, and the excess flows to the bottom of the refrigerator, just under the drawers. During the cooling cycle, the water in the drain often freezes and ice forms in and around the drain hole. Ignoring a clogged drain hole for a long time can lead to freezing of the refrigerator compartment evaporator (it will not have time to thaw) and loss of cooling capacity. At the same time, the refrigerator compressor will turn off less often to compensate for the lack of cold.

How to avoid refrigerator breakdowns in the summer heat?

To do this you need to follow a few simple steps:

Switch the cooling mode to the minimum value if the ambient temperature exceeds 25-30 degrees Celsius. Place the refrigerator away from heat sources. It is not recommended to place the refrigerator near the radiator and stove, as the device can quickly fail. The minimum distance is 1 meter, recommended – 2-3 meters. The more heat a heating device emits, the further away the refrigeration equipment should be from it. .

In America, old refrigerators are displayed along the roads. Of course, we're not talking about Harlem. Rather, this applies to small cottage towns where a fairly prosperous segment of the population lives. These refrigerators are fully functional, it’s just that the owner decided to update the set of household appliances in the house and put everything unnecessary along the highway. It is considered normal to come and pick up the item you like, or the waste disposal service will do it the next morning. This standard of living, one must think, allows Americans not to think about why the ice freezes in the refrigerator, despite the presence of the NoFrost system, but to simply get rid of this old trash.

Why does ice freeze too quickly?

If you notice that a crust of ice has actually begun to form faster than usual, the reason for this may be incorrect operation of the defrost sensor. Most often, the malfunction of this element is caused by improper use of refrigeration equipment.

For example, if you put a pot of hot soup in the refrigerator.

Ice freezing on the walls of the refrigerator is a fairly common occurrence. However, if in the case of old Soviet-type models this was a variant of the norm (not a ten-centimeter fur coat, of course, but only 2-3 cm), then the operating principle of modern refrigerators actively prevents this. Moreover, prolonged accumulation of frozen water sooner or later leads to breakdown of the unit due to disruption of the heat exchange process inside the device.

Strictly speaking, the accumulation of a snow coat is a completely natural process, which in a working refrigerator lasts from 3 months to six months, unless of course you have a No Frost system installed. Icing of the refrigerator, in fact, is the root cause of mandatory defrosting, which must be carried out regularly 2-3 times a year. However, if ice appears after several weeks after completely cleaning the device, this is a reason to contact a specialist to identify it.

One of the most common refrigerator malfunctions is the appearance of ice on the back wall. In some cases, the problem can be solved on your own, but in other situations, you cannot do without calling a specialist.

Most often, simple defrosting helps solve the problem, because every refrigerator, even those equipped with a “No Frost” system, needs this procedure. But if after “spring cleaning” you notice that ice is forming on the walls again, this is a sure sign that the refrigerator is not working properly. How serious is it, is it necessary to call a specialist, and why does the back wall still freeze? Let's try to figure it out.

Drip defrost system: we eliminate the cause of water in the refrigerator compartment ourselves

1. Drain hose or hole is clogged. If water regularly accumulates in a refrigerator with a “crying” evaporator underneath the fruit and vegetable drawer, then most likely the drainage is clogged. Its purpose is to remove melt water from the refrigeration compartment into a special tank located near the compressor. Drain blockages occur due to the characteristics of the drip defrost system: dust, crumbs, food residues, etc. can get into the drainage hole along with drops of melt water (which can cause an unpleasant odor in the refrigerator). When the drain is clogged, the water cannot escape. It stands in the drainage, and the excess flows to the bottom of the refrigerator, just under the drawers. During the cooling cycle, the water in the drain often freezes and ice forms in and around the drain hole. Ignoring a clogged drain hole for a long time can lead to freezing of the refrigerator compartment evaporator (it will not have time to thaw) and loss of cooling capacity. At the same time, the refrigerator compressor will turn off less often to compensate for the lack of cold.

In order to restore normal operation of the refrigerator, you should clean the drain hole. Below are two possible cleaning schemes that should be applied sequentially.

Scheme No. 1. Cotton swab + syringe

• Unplug the refrigerator. Before starting work, unplug the refrigerator and remove the fruit and vegetable drawers from it.
• Clean the drain hole. If there is no ice around the drainage hole, try clearing it with a cotton swab or similar non-sharp object. Many models include a special device designed for this purpose.
• Flush the drain. Take a small syringe with warm (not hot!) water and squirt water into the drain hole several times. If the water successfully drains into the condensate collection tray, congratulations, the blockage has been eliminated.

If these actions do not bring the desired result, and all the water from the syringe pours back into the refrigerator, most likely the drainage hose is frozen, and you cannot do without completely defrosting the refrigerator.

How can you tell if the evaporator tube is damaged?

If, while chipping ice, the knife stuck into the wall of the freezer, the first thing we recommend is to listen.

• If you hear a characteristic hissing sound, it means that the evaporator is damaged and freon, a gas used as a refrigerant in refrigeration units, is leaving the system.
• If you did not notice any unusual sounds, but after defrosting the refrigerator began to freeze worse, this also indicates a leak due to a possible breakdown of the evaporator. In a two-compressor refrigerator, only the freezer will not work; in a single-compressor refrigerator, both chambers will not work. In addition, refrigerators equipped with an audible alarm can notify by squeaking that the temperature in the unit has increased.

When to contact a specialist

If you notice that your refrigerator is not working properly, you should consult a professional. Small errors can damage the entire system.

A refrigerator is more than a household appliance: we don’t pay much attention to it as long as it works properly, but as soon as the refrigerator breaks down, we realize that we cannot live without it for a day.

Problems such as the formation of a piece of ice on the back wall, uninterrupted operation of the compressor, or too high a temperature in the refrigerator compartment require an urgent call to a technician. Any independent attempts to carry out repairs are fraught with financial losses.

The capillary tube of the Atlant refrigerator is clogged.

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Repairing the refrigerator yourself only leads to aggravation of the problem, so do not waste time and then avoid spending extra money - contact a specialist.

We make a diagnosis when opening the system

A 100% diagnosis that the capillary tube is clogged can only be made when the system is opened. To do this you will need all the necessary tools. I do not advise home craftsmen to do this if they have no idea about refrigeration technology, or if they do not have the necessary tools. Purchasing all the materials and tools will cost much more than calling in an outside specialist.

• You can open the system (filling pipe) and connect a pressure gauge. After starting the compressor, the pressure should not go into the negative zone (vacuum). After turning off the engine, the pressure does not rise or rises very slowly, which indicates that the capillary tube is clogged.
• We turn off the refrigerator, bite off the filling pipe and feel that it is sucking in air.
• We cut off the capillary on the filter. Freon sprays out of the filter under pressure. This also indicates a clogging problem.

Manufacturer's recommendations? Did not hear

Before connecting a new refrigerator to the network, you need to read the instructions that come with the equipment. But often users skip this stage, and in vain.

One of the mistakes that those who have not read the manual make is the maximum freezing mode in hot weather.

The temperature in the refrigerator compartments and in the room is not related. The food in the chamber will not spoil, even if the room is +40 °C. But the motor suffers from such a load and may fail prematurely. Then expensive repairs will be required.

Freezing occurs when warm food that has not cooled down is placed and the dishes are not covered with a lid. Due to temperature changes, condensation forms and moisture settles on the back wall of the chamber. Excess moisture is formed, making the melting of the ice crust difficult.

But often ice appears due to a malfunction. Below are the most common cases that have this symptom.

What's wrong with the drain tube?

If a huge puddle has flowed down the “crying back wall” at the bottom of the chamber, look for the cause of the problem in the drainage.

The drain hole in popular drip-type refrigerators is located at the bottom of the chamber.

The order of drainage operation when the unit is in order:

• The rear wall of the chamber and the evaporator become covered with frost during the cooling cycle.
• When the temperature reaches +6–8 °C, the compressor turns off.
• The defrosting phase begins: the frost melts and flows down the wall into the drain hole.
• The water flows through the outlet hose into the reservoir under the compressor and evaporates.
• The cycle repeats again.

Most often, water does not flow into the tank due to a clogged drain. Fixing the problem is simple: you need to clean the drainage. There are a lot of ways to do this: to flush the tube you can use a syringe with water, a syringe without a needle, cotton swabs, or wire. As a rule, after cleaning, the water goes down the drain without any problems.

Ice is the enemy of drainage

ALM-zapchasti consultants recommend fixing the problem immediately upon detection, because a faulty drain leads to freezing of the evaporator, as well as the drain tube. Then the situation develops like a snowball: the refrigerator freezes worse, the compressor turns off less often and wears out faster.

This is reminiscent of the story of the defeat of an army due to a missing nail in a horseshoe. To prevent a small problem from causing the refrigerator to break down, it is recommended to regularly clean the drain tube.

If icing of the drain is caused by other reasons, for example, a broken temperature sensor, you should fix the problem by replacing faulty spare parts for refrigerators with new ones.

Have you opened the refrigerator to get something to eat and suddenly discovered that a fair amount of water has collected under the fruit and vegetable drawers? You wiped it once, then again, but the water appears again and again. If you look closely, you may have noticed ice build-up in the area of ​​the refrigerator drainage hole. There may also be an unpleasant odor in the refrigerator. What is this? Breaking?

Let's say right away that the presence of moisture inside the refrigerator compartment is only permissible on the back wall and only for refrigerators with a drip defrost system. It shouldn't be under the drawers at all. However, if you do find water in the refrigerator compartment, this does not always indicate a breakdown of any component of the unit. In some cases, this problem can be fixed by yourself.

Useful tips and tricks

Any refrigerator needs care. Once or twice a year it needs to be defrosted, washed, dried and ventilated.

Refrigerators without a No Frost system require periodic shutdown, defrosting, and cleaning in order to avoid unexpected breakdowns and preserve service life.

Any refrigerator can only hold a certain amount of food, so you should not fill it to the maximum.

You should not open the door too often, letting cold air out; it is necessary to replace the failed seal in a timely manner. To prevent the compressor from overheating, it is worth calling a specialist in time, protecting yourself from unnecessary expensive repairs.