Indesit washing machine malfunctions and do-it-yourself repairs


Drain pump failure

The most common malfunction in Indesit ACS. Its causes are failure of the pump motor or foreign objects entering the pump: coins, buttons, pins, screws, cufflinks, bra wires, etc. Foreign objects block the operation of the pump or break its impeller.

SignsHow to fixPrice
The Indesit washing machine does not drain water; errors F05 or F11 may appear on the display.If the pump is blocked by a foreign object, you must disassemble the pump and remove it. In other cases, the drain pump needs to be replaced. from 1600 rub.

*Parts are not included in the price and are paid additionally.

Malfunctions of SMs equipped with a drying function

If code F13 appears on the display, this means that there is no signal from the drying temperature sensor. During diagnostics, an open or short circuit in the sensor circuit is detected. A working temperature meter should have a resistance within 40 kOhm. Causes: sensor malfunction or contact failure in the connecting circuit.

If there is a break in the circuit of the heating element intended for drying clothes, the reasons for the breakdown are the same - failure of the heater or failure of contact in the connecting circuit. A malfunction of the relay that turns on the heating element for drying may occur. The heater does not turn off, which indicates either a stuck relay or a broken contact in the connecting cable.

Causes of breakdowns

Indesit spends a lot of time and resources on producing innovative models with rich functionality. On sale you can find washing machines with top and bottom loading. In most cases, the cause of breakdown is non-compliance with the operating rules of the equipment. In the instructions for the washing machine, the manufacturer describes the features of using the equipment.

Most often, the cause of the breakdown is a simple clogged filter or drain hose. In this case, it becomes impossible to supply water or remove it from the system. You can carry out such repairs yourself at home, without the involvement of a specialist. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to clear the blockage.

Other reasons include:

  • improper operation;
  • lack of timely maintenance;
  • negligence on the part of the child;
  • presence of a foreign object inside the machine;
  • starting without water.

Failure of the hatch locking device (UBL)

The control module (electronic controller) is the “brain” of the washing machine, which controls its operation. It contains all washing programs. It looks like a microcircuit with a bunch of radio components. Most electronic components are sensitive to voltage surges. Moisture getting on the control board is another common cause of module failure.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
Programs get lost, the machine does not spin the drum or does not turn on at all - these are the most common signs of a malfunction in the control unit of the Idesit washing machine. The breakdown may be accompanied by error F12 or blinking lights in models without a display. It is necessary to identify faulty electronic components of the unit and replace them with new ones, solder burnt tracks and restore rotten contacts.
If, after checking the unit, all radio elements, tracks and contacts are normal, then the module firmware (memory with programs embedded in it) is checked. If necessary, it is unsoldered and reprogrammed. If the controller processor fails, the control board is completely replaced.
from 2000 rub.

In UBL, most often, the thermal tablet that heats the thermal plate fails: the tablet melts, sticks to the bimetal, or simply collapses. Less commonly, the bimetallic strip itself loses flexibility and reacts worse to heat.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
The machine does not lock the door when turned on or does not open after the end of the program. Models with a display display error F17. The sunroof locking device needs to be replaced.from 1300 rub.

* Spare parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

Water does not enter the washing machine

With Indesit washing machines, quite often a situation arises when water does not flow into the tank. This often happens when owners forget to close the hatch, open the water supply tap, and also due to the lack of proper pressure in the system. These reasons can be eliminated independently.

The lack of water can also be caused by more serious faults:

  • The strainer at the entrance to the machine is clogged with dirt or oxidation products.
  • Malfunctions in the control module.
  • As a result of a malfunction in the hatch lock, the electronics do not receive a corresponding signal to close it.
  • Exhaust valve failure.
  • Failure of the pressure switch - water height sensor, as a result, there are no signals to supply water to the control unit.

All these shortcomings can be eliminated independently. However, most often you have to turn to the services of experienced specialists, since detailed diagnostics are required before repairs.

DIY diagnostics of the Indesit washing machine

The manufacturer took care of the consumer and provided a test mode for launching the equipment. This is the easiest way to check whether it is working normally or if there is a malfunction. The error code is displayed on the electronic display. The operating instructions contain a table with a complete breakdown of the codes, from which any user can understand what exactly is wrong with the system.

If the model does not have a display, then you should pay attention to the combination of light-up diodes located on the front panel. Only the top row matters. It is located above four buttons responsible for additional functionality. The table shows all possible errors.

To accurately determine the cause of the breakdown, you should first wait until the corresponding code appears on the display. Programmed self-diagnosis allows the equipment to accurately identify the problem. For example, if an error occurs with the heating element, then the inscription F07 will be visible on the electronic display. It also happens that the self-diagnosis function is not provided. In this case, an external inspection of the equipment will be required.

Almost always, extraneous noise and knocking indicate a breakdown. For example, a hum when the washing machine is running indicates a problem with the bearing. It becomes especially audible during spinning. When the heating element is broken, the hatch from the equipment remains cold, leaving powder and stains on the laundry. If smoke and an unpleasant smell of plastic appear, then the problem is much more serious. This is one of those cases when you should definitely contact a specialist.

To repair yourself, you need to determine the direction to look for the breakdown. If this is a mechanically controlled washing machine, then you need to pay attention to signs characteristic of certain malfunctions.

For example, if a leak appears from the outside, you should look for a violation in the connection of the solenoid valve, check the integrity of the hatch cuff, and monitor the tightness of the drain paths.

Complete “silence” of the machine indicates a breakdown in the electronics or a broken contact. If the lights come on, but the rotation does not start, then there is probably a problem with the engine. Stagnant water refers to a faulty pump or a clogged filter. If everything works, but washing occurs in cold water, then there is a problem with the heating element or the accompanying temperature sensor.

Repairing an Indesit washing machine with your own hands is easier if it has an electronic control that has a self-diagnostic module that can recognize the problem area. The equipment reports a fault found with a code on the display. It consists of the letter F and several numbers. Here are the codes for which it is possible to troubleshoot the problem yourself:

  • 02 - elementary overload, which prevents the engine from rotating the drum, or bearing failure;
  • 03 - failure of the heating element or the temperature sensor itself;
  • 04 - no accurate data on the liquid level (clogged inlet);
  • 05 - stagnation of water due to pump failure or blockage in communications;
  • 07 - no liquid heating;
  • 08 — heating element short circuit;
  • 10 — level sensor is broken;
  • 13 — drying mode is broken;
  • 16 - bearing failure, drum overload or poorly closed door (in devices with vertical loading);
  • 17 — UBL is broken or the front hatch is poorly closed.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with: The washing machine does not spin the drum

If one of the above codes comes on, you can set yourself up for independent repairs. If other errors are displayed, you will have to call a technician. Next, we will consider ways to troubleshoot an Indesit washing machine with your own hands in two categories: mechanical breakdowns and failure of electronic equipment.

Methods for determining failure

First of all, you need to determine what kind of breakdown occurred. An initial diagnosis will help you decide whether it is possible to fix the problem yourself or whether you will still have to spend money on professional repairs.

The right step would be to first familiarize yourself with the circuit diagram of the washing machine in order to have an idea of ​​where everything is located.


In many cases, a breakdown in the Indesit washing machine can be repaired with your own hands. But to do this, you at least need to familiarize yourself with the design of the machine.

Sometimes, to determine the cause of the failure of household appliances, it is enough to read the instructions for use, which, among other things, contain recommendations for eliminating breakdowns.

The first thing you need to do is look at the display. If it is impossible to complete the specified process, the washing machine displays special codes on the display.


Models of Indesit washing machines produced in recent years are equipped with displays, the signals of which will be the first to report the occurrence of a malfunction

Error codes in the operation of the washing machine are given in the instructions that the manufacturer necessarily attaches to its product:

  • F01 – in the control of the drive motor the triac semiconductor device is closed;
  • F02 - due to an open circuit or short circuit, the tachogenerator has lost the ability to signal the rotation of the drive motor, another reason for such an error is the motor is blocked;
  • F03 – the temperature sensor circuit has been short-circuited or broken;
  • F04 – failure of the water level sensor;
  • F05 – due to an interruption in the operation of the drain pump, a clogged drain tract, or a malfunction of the water sensor, the “empty tank” signal is not given;
  • F06 – due to errors in the front panel buttons, the program code is not defined;
  • F07 – the heating element does not heat up;
  • F08 – faulty wiring, relay or tubular electric heater itself;
  • F09 – EEPROM memory has failed;
  • F10 – the water level sensor suddenly lost signals of both a full and an empty tank;
  • F11 – the supply voltage has disappeared in the drain pump;
  • F12 – communication between the controller and the display module is broken;
  • F13 – open or short circuit in the sensor circuit responsible for the drying temperature;
  • F14 – malfunction in the drying heating element;
  • F15 – damage to the heating element relay responsible for drying;
  • F16 – drum lock;
  • F17 – power is not supplied to the hatch door lock or they forgot to close it;
  • F18 – on the main electronic module there was a communication error between the controller chips and the processor that controls the asynchronous drive motor.

A complete explanation of error codes in the operation of Indesit washing machines and ways to eliminate violations will be provided in an article entirely devoted to these important issues.

It is possible to check various contacts, wiring, sensors using a very useful device - a multimeter. The device will show whether there is power everywhere.


If you have dealt with electrical repairs before and know how to use a multimeter, it will help clarify the situation and point out some errors

Sometimes it is enough to listen to the sound made by the unit. When the washing machine begins to creak, make excessive noise, and sometimes even rumble, then, most likely, problems have arisen in the bearings or drum, the oil seal is damaged, the counterweight fasteners are loose, and the shock absorbers are in poor condition.

Motor brush wear

Graphite brushes are a component of the commutator motor that ensures its rotation. They transmit voltage between a stationary stator and a moving rotor. When the brushes wear out, weak contact occurs between them and the commutator, the electric motor loses power, jerks or does not rotate at all.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
The Indesit washing machine does not pick up speed during the spin cycle or does not spin the drum at all. Perhaps error F01 or F02 lights up on the screen. The brushes need to be replaced.from 1400 rub.

*Parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

A common breakdown for Indesit washing machines older than 5 years. The bearings are destroyed and prevent the drum from rotating.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
The Indesit machine rattles during the spin cycle and does not spin the drum. In advanced cases, noise and lack of rotation of the drum also occurs during washing. If you remove the back wall in machines with horizontal loading or the side wall in models with vertical loading, you will see rusty water stains on the machine tank. The bearings and seal need to be replaced.from 3400 rub.

* Spare parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

The main reasons are breaks or interturn short circuits in the stator or rotor windings. It is rare to encounter defects in the collector lamellas, for example, their peeling.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
SMA Indesit does not spin the drum and shows error F01 or F02 on the display immediately after starting the wash. When there is an interturn short circuit in the motor, the machine knocks out the machine. The motor needs to be repaired or replaced.from 2000 rub.

* Spare parts are not included in the price and are paid additionally.

The drum of vertical loading machines is supported on two axle shafts with bearings. These bearings are located on the outside of the washer tank. When replacing them, first of all disconnect all the wires. Then we dismantle the linings located on the sides of the machine drum. Under these pads there are calipers with bearings.

First of all, we replace the bearing located on the side where the pulley is missing. Next, remove the caliper. The thread on this side should be right-handed, so unscrew it counterclockwise. After dismantling this element, we replace the oil seal and bearing.

On the reverse side, you must first remove the drive belt. When the belt is removed, remove the pulley, as well as the grounding block.

On the reverse side of the caliper there is a left-hand thread. This means that you need to unscrew it clockwise. We clean the installation sites of new bearings and then lubricate them. Next, the calipers are installed and assembly is performed.

In some cases, it may be necessary to disassemble the machine tank. Then we unscrew the screws that secure its cover, and then carefully separate it at the soldering points. Reassembling the tank is performed in the same way as for front-loading machines. The rest of the maintenance and repair work on top-loading machines is performed in almost the same way as for front-loading washing machines.

Frequent malfunctions

To successfully repair an Indesit washing machine with your own hands, you need to know common defects.

Drum failures

The drum is in contact with the laundry, so malfunctions reduce the quality of washing or make it impossible. There are several signs that indicate problems with the drum:

  • whistling during operation;
  • strong vibration;
  • creaking sound from the friction of the drum against the rubber door seal, marks on the cuff;
  • oily or rusty marks on the back wall of the tank;
  • metallic grinding noise when working in models with vertical loading from spontaneously opening doors of the loading hatch.

The repair is complex and often involves replacing the center bearings.

Faulty control module

An electronic device controls the operation of the unit in accordance with the program, controls the water level and temperature, washing time, etc.

Signs of a malfunction of the Indesit washing machine:

  • rotation of the drum at maximum speed, regardless of the mode, repeating the cycle of filling and draining water;
  • indicators do not light up;
  • blinking indicators, chaotic change of error codes on the display;
  • non-stop washing;
  • water heating does not correspond to the program;
  • error code F09.

Repairing the electronic control unit installed in the Indesit washing machine requires special knowledge. An easier way is to replace the module with a new one.

Drain system clogged

Occurs due to coins, keys, paper clips, etc. getting into the drain filter or into the pump cavity. Clogging is caused by limestone deposits in the drainage system, which form due to high water hardness and lack of proper care. Signs:

  • the automatic machine stops with error code F05;
  • the pump works, but the water does not drain well;
  • The pump works, the water does not drain, the door does not open.

It is necessary to clear the drain system of debris. One of the simplest types of repair work.

The electric motor does not work

The car engine does not always stop due to a breakdown. For example, the electronic module turns off the engine when water does not enter the tank due to a clogged filter or damage to the water supply hose. After clearing the fault, engine operation resumes.

Other reasons for stopping the engine:

  • wear of electric brushes;
  • short circuit in the windings;
  • damage to the wires supplying the motor;
  • control unit malfunction.

To check, the engine is removed from the device. Worn brushes are replaced. The integrity of the windings is checked with an ohmmeter. If a short circuit is detected, the motor must be replaced.

Wear and destruction of bearings

Failure to follow the operating rules can lead to failure of the bearing assembly: exceeding the maximum weight of laundry, incorrect choice of washing modes, etc. You can suspect a malfunction of the bearing assembly based on the following signs:

  • rusty stains on the tank;
  • extraneous sounds (clanging, grinding, crunching, etc.);
  • bad spin;
  • strong vibration;
  • Damage to the rubber door seal from the inside.

The repair is complicated. Disassemble the unit, remove the plastic tank with the drum. Cut the structure around the perimeter and remove the drum. Knock out the bearings and replace them with new ones. Reassemble in the reverse order, glue the tank halves with sealant, and secure with self-tapping screws and bolts.

The heating element has burned out

The main cause of breakdown is hard water. Lime deposits on the heater reduce its thermal conductivity and lead to failure.

Signs of heating element burnout:

  • burning smell from the machine;
  • the water does not heat up, the wash does not stop;
  • error F07.

A burnt-out heating element must be replaced. Access to it opens after removing the back cover - the heater is located at the bottom of the tank. The fastening bolts are unscrewed, the part is removed and replaced. Troubleshooting is accessible to a beginner.

The machine does not turn on

The device does not respond to the power key, the indication does not light up. Possible defects:

  • damage to the power cable;
  • malfunction of the built-in network filter;
  • the control unit has failed;
  • The electrical wiring inside the device is damaged.

There are many reasons why the car does not turn on. It is necessary to accurately determine the location of the breakdown and only then carry out repair work.

Leakage through the door

If water leaks are detected, it is necessary to quickly determine the cause of the leak. Possible defects:

  • the formation of limestone on the glass, which prevents closing;
  • wear or damage to the rubber seal;
  • faulty door lock or hinge.

The repair is not very difficult; it consists of replacing the cuff, adjusting the hinges and the lock. A faulty lock must be replaced.

Preparation

It is worth remembering that equipment can only be disassembled if its warranty period has expired. Until this moment, the service center is engaged in servicing. Self-diagnosis should begin by inspecting the surge protector. It is not difficult to find it in the design of the washing machine, since it is the electrical wire that goes to it.

To work, you will need a tester that will determine the presence of power in the network. If there is no electricity at the contacts, it becomes clear that the cause of the breakdown lies in the surge protector. If there is power, then it is worth checking other important components. At this stage it is easy to identify even the most complex breakdown.

Malfunction of the heating element (heating element)

Over time, impurities contained in the water are deposited on the heating element, threads, fabric particles and other debris are collected. Because of this, the thermal conductivity of the heating element decreases, which forces it to work more intensively. As a result:

  • the TEN coil burns out and the machine does not heat the water;
  • or the heater body burns out or rots, the coil comes into contact with water, and the washing machine knocks out the machine.
SignsHow to fixPrice*
The Indesit washing machine does not heat the water (so it takes a long time to wash and does not switch to rinsing) or knocks out the RCD/automatic when turned on or while washing. The malfunction is often accompanied by error F08. The heater needs to be replaced.from 1400 rub.

Weaknesses of Indesit washing machines

Failures in the SM occur primarily due to non-compliance with operating rules. In addition, hard tap water, rich in salts, has a detrimental effect on tubular heating elements (heating elements). As sources of problems, one cannot fail to mention design flaws and manufacturing defects. The most vulnerable parts are:

  1. Heating elements often fail not only in Indesit CM, but also in units of other popular brands. This is facilitated by scale that forms on the heater tubes, because Italian designers do not provide heating elements with a protective coating.
  2. Surge filters often break down within the first 5 years of operation. In addition to manufacturing defects and high humidity, they are negatively affected by large voltage drops in 220 V networks, leading to breakdown of capacitors.
  3. The bearings on which the drum rotates are the “Achilles heel” of the Indesit SMA (in this technique they fail more often than in units of other brands). Repairs require complete disassembly of the machine, so replacement can only be performed by a qualified specialist.
  4. control units (hereinafter also referred to as ECUs) cannot be called reliable either. This especially applies to earlier models of equipment. Electrical circuits are not designed for a wide range of supply voltages, and boards are not designed for high humidity. In addition, weak surge protectors cannot smooth out voltage surges in 220 V networks, which leads to damage to the computer.
  5. tachometers are also not unreliable. Their failure entails malfunctions in the electronics, since the sensor transmits information about the number of revolutions of the electric motor to the control unit. You can replace the part yourself.


Most errors in the operation of a washing machine can be corrected with your own hands, but there are also those that only an experienced technician can fix.

Modern intelligent control systems of Indesit CM help to determine the nature of faults that arise during operation. Error information is displayed on the displays in the form of alphanumeric codes.

Troubleshooting the main components of the machine

It is worth troubleshooting the main components of the equipment yourself only if you have enough experience and knowledge in this area. A person who does not know how to properly disassemble and repair a washing machine can turn a small problem into a serious breakdown. If you have enough experience, you can fix it yourself:

  • stuffing box;
  • motor;
  • hatch cuff;
  • thermostat;
  • tray;
  • crosspiece;
  • pipe branch;
  • capacitor;
  • fuse;
  • tachogenerator;
  • a heating element.

We suggest you read Why the washing machine does not dry clothes

Drain pump

Normal operation of equipment is impossible without draining and taking water. After each cycle, the laundry inside the drum remains dry, and dirty water is removed into the sewer system. It is the pump that plays an important role in the described process. Before you start changing this unit, you should make sure that the cause of the breakdown lies precisely in it. By the operation of the automatic machine, you can easily determine when the pump has failed.

Among the main signs:

  • the corresponding error code appears on the display;
  • the washing cycle was unfinished, and the equipment stopped with a tank in which water remained;
  • water is not constantly removed from the machine;
  • it is impossible to turn off the pump.

To replace the pump you will need to remove it. To do this you will need to prepare a set of tools:

  • slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • multimeter to measure power.

Be sure to follow safety precautions when working with a washing machine. The power must be turned off and the inlet valve closed. The remaining liquid is drained. At the same time, you can inspect the impeller. At the bottom of the front panel there is a small slot where the filter is located. It is unscrewed counterclockwise. Hair and threads on the impeller are removed manually.

If two LEDs on the panel start to light up simultaneously during the washing mode, or the equipment stops without finishing the cycle and drains the water, then there are problems with switching modes. Error code F08 may appear on the electronic display. In this case, we are talking about the heating element relay sticking. Another reason is the pressure switch, which freezes in filling mode. To cope with the error, you need to do a little diagnostics and inspect:

  • board, namely contacts to connector J3;
  • check the pressure switch with a multimeter;
  • wiring that goes from J3 to the pressure switch.

Most often, replacing the heating element, board or pressure switch can eliminate the breakdown. You can change the heating element yourself, without the help of a specialist, since it is easy to access. To do this you will need to remove the panel at the back. It, in turn, is attached to several bolts. Experts advise checking the heating element before replacing it.

Drum bearings

One of the disadvantages of Indesit equipment is the small tank in weight. This feature often becomes the main reason why bearings in such washing machines quickly fail. It is impossible to disassemble the unit yourself, the tank is sealed. Experts advise contacting experienced repairmen who will completely replace it.

Tank shock absorbers

Control module

Indesit is reliable equipment with a high-quality control module. The manufacturer took care to equip it with a special protection system. This unit is particularly sensitive to moisture and voltage changes in the network. When a module error appears on the electronic panel, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and pay attention to the following points:

  • whether condensation has appeared on the current-carrying wires;
  • Are the contacts securely fastened?
  • whether traces of oxidation have appeared;
  • is there any blockage in the filter or hoses?

The inlet valve works on the same principle as a regular valve through which water is supplied. If it breaks, you can find out about the malfunction by the following signs:

  • a code with the corresponding error appears on the display;
  • the tank is filled with water, this process does not stop;
  • when the equipment starts working, there is no sound indicating that water is being drawn into the tank.

Before repairing the solenoid valve, you will need to look at the filter. Here it is presented in the form of a mesh, which is designed to trap small debris, including hair and threads. To get to the valve, you need to remove the top cover of the washing machine - it is held in place by several screws.

The element may not always show external signs of damage. If they are missing, the part must be removed for a thorough inspection. The hoses leading to the valve will need to be disconnected. Metal clamps can be loosened using pliers. The valve may also be clogged. You should attach a hose to it above the sink and let the water run. When the element is in good condition, it easily allows water to pass through. The presence of a leak indicates the need to replace the valve.

Electric motor

Indesit washing machines are unpretentious, which is why they are popular. But even with such equipment, the electric motor can fail over time, in which case expensive repairs are required. In any washing machine, the rotation of the drum is ensured by an electric motor. Older models used a belt drive, while newer models used a direct drive. Regardless of design, any engine is susceptible to failure. Among the main malfunctions:

  • brushes are worn out;
  • winding break;
  • failure of the collector lamellas.

As a rule, brushes wear out when equipment is used for many years. You can determine the breakdown by sparks from the engine or by their size, since they wear off and, accordingly, become smaller. A good part has no chips or cracks. If you purchase a replacement spare part, it is desirable that it be original. Such spare parts have an increased safety margin. You can make repairs yourself.

As for the break, it can occur in the stator or rotor winding. The best solution in this particular case would be to completely replace the part. Rewinding a motor is sometimes even more expensive than buying a part. To determine whether the lamellas are worn out, you need to inspect the manifold. When burrs appear on their surface, contacts break or detachment occurs, sparks appear.

Often the user has to deal with a situation where the drum rotates too slowly or does not rotate at all. This is a consequence of a short circuit that occurs between the turns in the winding. The cause could be overheating of the engine housing, which is why the thermostat worked.

The temperature at which the electric motor must operate should not exceed 80 C. To check this assumption, it is necessary to use a tester. It is attached to the lamellas. The resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.4 Ohms. The cause of a short circuit is often a violation of the integrity of the winding.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with How to get rid of the smell of stench and mustiness in an apartment and private house

Network filter

When a surge protector fails, it must be replaced. There is no point in repairing it. However, experts remind that even a new filter may not work for long, even if there were no large power surges in the network. The main cause of the malfunction is not the surge, but the accumulation of condensate, which causes a short circuit.

If the locking lid lock breaks, the washing machine simply will not turn on, since the system does not receive a signal that the door is sealed. The manufacturer has thought out the design of the locking device in a similar way, so that there are contacts at its ends. If they are open, then there is no power to the motor.

In most cases it is necessary to replace the element, but sometimes simply cleaning it is enough. It also happens that the handle is broken. You can repair it yourself, you just need to read the instructions on how to do it correctly. If the lock does not work, then there may be an error in the control unit.

Frequent failures of Indesit washing machines

The main malfunctions of Indesit washing machines are malfunctions of their main components, such as:

  • drain pump;
  • washing mode switch;
  • drum bearings;
  • tank shock absorbers;
  • control module;
  • inlet solenoid valve;
  • electric motor;
  • network filter;
  • hatch cover locking device.

Most of them are completely removable on their own. If you call a specialist or send the equipment to a workshop for repairs, its cost will be very significant.

Repairing a faulty pump


Repairing a faulty pump
The main symptoms of a malfunction of this unit are the following:

  • When draining water, the pump operates with a loud rattling sound, and a fine vibration is felt on the body.
  • The pump does not pump out the water accumulated in the tank, while emitting a monotonous low-frequency sound (“mooing”). It’s better to read why the washing machine does not drain water.
  • Water is not pumped out, and the pump itself does not make any sounds at all.
  • Water is pumped out of the tank very slowly.

The easiest way to fix this problem is to clean the pump filter.

To do this, unscrew the lid located in the lower right part of the unit and manually remove from there all foreign objects (coins, buttons) that have fallen through the gap between the cuff and the rotating drum.

At the same time, you should also carefully turn the pump impeller by hand: if, after cleaning the filter and removing foreign objects from the pump, it spins without effort, then the main cause of the malfunction has been eliminated.

If the problem is not resolved after cleaning the filter, perform a more thorough repair of the pump as follows:

  1. Using a drain hose located near the pump filter, drain all the water from the tank.
  2. Open the filter hatch and unscrew the two screws located near its plug.
  3. Putting the car on its side, remove the bottom cover - the bottom.
  4. The pump is disconnected from the tank drain pipe and the sewer hose.
  5. After disconnecting the power connector from the pump, the pump is removed from the washing machine body.
  6. By unscrewing the two screws or turning it counterclockwise, the “snail” is removed from the unit - the working part of the pump with two pipes.
  7. Using a heat gun, heat up and carefully remove the pump rotor with impeller and seal from the housing.
  8. Clean the magnetic rotor from dirt and water and lubricate its bearings.
  9. Replace the oil seal and install the rotor in its original place.
  10. Install the pump in the reverse order of dismantling.

If after such manipulations the pump does not work, it should be replaced with a new one of the same model or an analogue approved by the manufacturer.

Control module malfunctions

The main malfunctions of this control unit are burnout of electronic components - capacitors, resistors, microprocessor (controller), caused by voltage surges, short circuits due to high humidity or water getting on the board, or their manufacturing defects.

Read more ► The washing machine is noisy during the spin cycle: what to do, reasons for the noise when draining water

Due to the failure of this unit, the machine completely or partially stops responding to pressing buttons on the control panel, the duration of various modes is disrupted, and error codes consisting of a Latin letter (F or H) and two numbers (01 or 018) appear on the display.

Each of them means a specific malfunction of a specific component of the washing machine. They can be deciphered using a special table given in the unit’s operating manual.

Important ! If there is no display, you can determine the error code by the combination of blinking indicators and backlighting of the control panel buttons.

You cannot repair the control module yourself; to do this you must have soldering skills, a special soldering station, and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. Troubleshooting of this board is carried out by specialists from service centers.

Drum bearings are worn out


The drum bearings are worn out.
If the machine vibrates strongly during the spin cycle, hums or makes a whistling, cutting sound, an urgent replacement of the drum bearings and seals is necessary.

This unit is replaced as follows:

  1. After unscrewing the two screws, the top cover is moved forward and removed from the machine.
  2. All connectors are disconnected from the control module, the latches securing it on the front panel are pressed out and removed from the washing machine.
  3. Carefully removing the spring clips from the front panel and tank, disconnect the flexible rubber cuff.
  4. Remove the front panel (cover).
  5. Disconnect the filler and drain pipes.
  6. After unscrewing 2 screws, remove the powder receptacle.
  7. Using a socket wrench, unscrew and remove the top and front concrete counterweights.
  8. Having unscrewed the back cover from the tank pulley, remove the drive belt (for models with a belt drive), and disconnect the power wires from the heating element and the electric motor.
  9. Putting the car on its side, remove the bottom of the unit, and disconnect the tank shock absorbers from the body of the unit.
  10. Having disconnected the two upper springs from the body, the tank is removed from the body through the upper part.
  11. Having locked the pulley using a socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing it to the drum shaft.
  12. The tank is sawed along the solder seam with a hacksaw.
  13. The drum is removed from the tank.
  14. The seals are removed from the bushing, and then the failed bearings are carefully knocked out.
  15. The bearing seats are thoroughly cleaned of dirt.
  16. New bearings are inserted into the bushing and, using old bearings, carefully driven into the seats.
  17. The bearings are sealed from above with new seals.
  18. The drum shaft is inserted into bearings.
  19. The sawn tank is connected using bolts and sanitary silicone sealant.
  20. The tank is installed in the reverse order of dismantling.

This bearing replacement process requires careful adherence to the sequence of steps described above.

How to replace the heating element in an Indesit washing machine


How to replace the heating element in an Indesit washing machine
If the water does not heat up during washing, the machine does not start, showing an error code corresponding to a malfunction of the heating element, it is removed from the tank and checked for serviceability as follows:

  1. Remove the back cover.
  2. Disconnect the power and ground wires from the heating element.
  3. Disconnect the temperature sensor.
  4. Unscrew the nut on the stud in the middle of the heating element.
  5. Press the pin into the tank.
  6. Using a screwdriver, pry the flange of the heating element and carefully remove it along with the sealing rubber from the tank.

After removing the heater from the tank, it is first checked for functionality using a multimeter. To do this, set the device to resistance measurement mode in the range of up to 200 Ohms, applying the probes to the terminals of the heating element.

Read more ► When spinning, the drum knocks loudly: causes of vibration and rumble in the washing machine, how to eliminate

The value that appears on the multimeter display should be equal to or slightly less than that calculated by this formula: R=U2/P, where U is the voltage supplied to the heating element in volts (V), P is the heater power in watts (W).

So, for example, for a heating element with a power of 2000 W operating from a conventional two-phase network with a voltage of 220 V, the normal resistance will be 24.2 Ohms.

After this, the heater is checked for breakdown. To do this, turn the multimeter into buzzer mode, one of its probes is applied to the contact of the heating element, and the second to the ground or the descaled surface of the heater.

If at the same time the multimeter makes a characteristic long sound (squeaking), it means that the spiral inside the heater body is in contact with it, thereby creating a danger of electric shock to a person through the body of the washing machine. This heating element must be replaced.

If the heating element turns out to be serviceable as a result of these checks, it must be descaled. To do this, the heater is dipped into a pre-prepared solution of vinegar or citric acid and kept in it for 24 hours.

Replacing shock absorbers and dampers


Replacing shock absorbers and dampers
Replacement of shock absorbers (dampers) located in the lower part of the machine is carried out as follows:

  1. The back cover is removed.
  2. The upper locking pins are removed from the shock absorbers inserted into the eyes on the tank - to do this, remove the stoppers from them or clamp special locking latches.
  3. Having disconnected the lower pins or bolts securing the dampers to the machine body, they are freely removed and inspected for functionality.

It is recommended to replace shock absorbers not one at a time, but in pairs, using the markings applied to its body when selecting.

Washing powder remains in the tray

The main reasons that powder remains in the tray during washing are:

  • Insufficient water supply to the tray - can be eliminated by repairing or replacing the solenoid inlet valve and cleaning the mesh inlet filter.
  • Too much powder poured into the tray - you must strictly follow the amount of powder recommended in the machine’s operating instructions for each washing mode.
  • Failure of the electronic control module - this problem can only be solved by a highly qualified technician or service center specialist.

Also, excessive accumulation of powder in the tray may occur due to the use of low-quality, expired detergent.

Water does not enter the washing machine

If water does not flow into the powder container, this may be due to the following reasons:

  • clogging of the input filter mesh;
  • breakdown of the intake solenoid valve;
  • There is insufficient water pressure in the hose connected to the washing machine.

Also, the absence or lack of water in the tank may be caused by a malfunction of the control unit.

Motor faults

The main malfunctions of the washing machine motor are:

  • brush wear;
  • reservoir development;
  • breakage of the rotor windings;
  • destruction and jamming of bearings.

These faults are eliminated by replacing failed engine components (brushes, bearings). If the integrity of the armature winding is damaged or the commutator unit is worn out, the engine is replaced with a new one.

The lock on the sunroof has stopped working properly


The lock on the hatch has stopped working properly.
If the machine hatch does not lock during the washing process, this may be caused by:

  • Failure of the locking mechanism itself - the hatch locking device (UBL) based on a thermoelement and a bimetallic plate.
  • Failure of the control module.

Read more ► The washing machine is leaking from below: the main causes and troubleshooting

In Indesit washing machines, if the UBL fails, its disassembly and repair due to the non-separable design of this unit is impossible. A failed hatch lock must be replaced with a new one.

The mode switch began to turn freely

If the mode switch knob (programmer) turns freely, but the hatch does not lock and the machine does not start, this may be caused by a breakdown of the following components:

  • water pump;
  • heating element;
  • temperature sensor;
  • pressure switch (water level sensor in the tank);
  • control module;
  • engine speed sensor;
  • electric motor

You can more accurately determine the free rotation of the programmer by the error code displayed on the control panel display or by a combination of lit indicators and button backlights.

The machine does not turn on

If the washing machine does not turn on, this may be due to the following reasons:

  1. Violation of the integrity of the network cable.
  2. Burning of contacts inside the plug.
  3. Failure of the network filter.

In order to more accurately determine the cause, it is necessary, with the power turned off, using a tester or multimeter to check the integrity of the wires of the network cable and plug. If they are in working condition, then most likely the problem will be in a failed power filter - this unit cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a new one if it breaks down.

Useful tips

It is not always enough to lubricate the contacts with silicone and clear out the blockage to restore the functionality of the washing machine. The user must listen to the sound of the equipment. The appearance of knocking and humming indicates a breakdown of the shock absorbers. When there is not enough lubrication, an unpleasant creak appears when the drum rotates.

Experts warn the user that if the failure is related to shock absorbers or dampers, using the equipment is strictly prohibited. If a person wants to save money, he can simply change the rubber tab that is on the shock absorber. Such repairs do not guarantee that the equipment will work correctly afterwards. Most likely, you will soon have to face the same problem again.

The powder compartment should be cleaned from time to time. Pay special attention to the pump, which plays an important role in the washing machine system. Of the other nodes, it experiences the most load, and therefore is one of the first to fail.

Experienced technicians can detect a breakdown by ear. The pump may make a loud noise during operation or may not make any sound at all. Before replacing the element, you will need to make sure that the water drainage system is free of debris. Not only the filter, but also the hose and impeller must be inspected. If these measures do not help eliminate the problem, then the only solution is to replace the pump.

It also happens that there is no problem as such. Lack of water supply or too little pressure is a consequence of lack of water in the tap. The problem may be with the inlet hose or its filter. If the water does not drain well, the cause is almost always a clog.

To learn how to replace bearings on an Indesit washing machine with a glued tank, see the following video.

Troubleshooting and possible repairs

First of all, you should know that a failure situation is not always fatal. In most cases, the problem is only a slight slowdown of the electronics - just disconnect the machine from the current for 15-20 minutes, and then start it again for everything to work.

This action should always be the first in the process of troubleshooting.

If there is no result, it’s time to take on specific instructions. Each problem has a serial number after the letter marker F and a required repair. For convenience, various faults are divided into categories.

#1 - electric motor problems (F01, F02)

Outwardly, both positions look the same - the machine is inactive from the very beginning, washing does not start after pressing the start button.

On electronic models the indicator F01 or F02 , on electromechanical ones (without a monitor):

  • “Additional rinse” is on or “Spin” is flickering, at the same time “Lock” is active;
  • The “Quick Wash” button is active or the “Extra Rinse” button is blinking.

Or no indicator lights up except the lock icon.

If the value F01 appears on the display and after a reboot, you need to check:

  • voltage strength in the network (normally more than 200 V);
  • serviceability and integrity of the socket and cord.

If there is no result, you need to open the back panel of the equipment and inspect the engine - it is located under the tank - for wear on the windings, motor brushes, and the serviceability of the triac. If any of this is damaged, the engine will most likely have to be replaced, and how to do this is written in detail here.


This is what the electric motor of Indesit automatic machines looks like - its average cost is 4700-6000 rubles or $40-100, and the design of the element is compatible with Ariston analogues

Problem F02 relates, among other things, to the tachometer that counts revolutions. To solve this, you should carefully examine all the contacts involved in the motor-tachometer and board-tachometer connections. There should be no broken wiring or loose terminals.

Along the way, it is necessary to check the resistance of the tachogenerator - the operating indicator is 100 Ohms and higher. Otherwise, the unit is also subject to more qualified inspection and replacement.

#2 - sensor failure (F03, F04, F07, F13)

For all these breakdowns, the problem lies in special sensors. You need to act according to the error code that appears and the model of the washing machine.

On F03 is indicated by “Revolutions” and “Quick Wash” lighting together, or “Revolutions” and “Additional rinse” blinking. This means that the machine does not heat the water, so the system will not start from the very beginning.

To eliminate the violation, the following are checked:

  • rinsing function - turn on, turn off, start washing;
  • contact elements of the temperature sensor - a device 20-30 mm inside the system tank;
  • thermostat resistance, which should be 20 kOhm or higher.

If everything is intact or turned out to be broken, but was corrected, and the washing still does not start, the thermostat must be replaced after checking it and the entire control board by the master.

Code F04 without a display is manifested by the frozen burning of “Super Wash” or the dynamic flashing of “Soaking”.

The system tells the user that water is not filling or not filling enough, even if filling occurs. The source of the breakdown is the water level meter (pressure switch).


You can recognize the pressure switch by its characteristic plastic case and volumetric size; you need to look for it in the upper part of the system. It cannot be repaired due to the monolithic shell - only replacement will save it

What needs to be done to correct the inconsistency:

  • check the presence of water in the water supply;
  • measure the pressure - for the machine to work correctly you need at least 1 atm;
  • inspect the supply tubes, hoses, filters (if there are any blockages there) and clean them of debris;
  • check the water supply valve for mobility;
  • Replace a failed pressure switch based on the results of an inspection by a specialist.

It may happen that the culprit is a short circuit in the control module, which can also be determined by a visiting technician.

You can read even more about why the washing machine does not fill with water in this article.

When the equipment reports a failure under the sign F07 , you need to act in exactly the same way as in the case of F04 . The code is simply one of the types of pressure switch failures.

The only difference is how the machine reports this: “Super Wash”, “Quick Wash” and “Revolution” are lit at once, or “Soaking” with “Revolution” and “Re-Rinse” continuously flickers.

Coding F13 is expressed by the “Delay start” and “Super wash” indicators (they freeze and light up together) or the turn indicator and the rinsing function. The basis of the breakdown is that drying is not carried out.


The drying heating sensor does not look like a general temperature sensor: the first resembles a tablet when viewed, the second - a long capsule. The standard motor thermostat is oblong and can be easily replaced

In most cases, a simple reboot will save you, since the temperature sensor is frozen. But if no changes have occurred, the drying thermometer can only be checked for insulation; in other cases, it must be replaced.

#3 - incorrect drain and fill (F05, F10, F11, H2O)

The group of problems associated with the operation of the drain pump has similar symptoms to the manifestations of the previous series of errors.

The most striking symptoms:

  • the washing machine pumped water and stopped despite being filled;
  • the system notifies about an empty tank;
  • The rinse and spin function does not work;
  • no water is pumped out.

The failure of the drain pump design is to blame.

The first step is to check the drain filter and the permeability of the sewer. The cleaning unit is located on all models on the side where the water supply hose inlet is located. A clogged drain filter, especially in the case of F11 , almost always means the pump is burnt out; the latter will have to be replaced.

A clogged drain needs to be cleaned, making sure at the same time that the tap of the water supply system is not accidentally turned off or the water is not turned off at all.

Other causes of failure are malfunction of the water supply valve, damage to the pressure switch, damage to the wiring of the pump-control board assembly, and failure of the board itself.

You can correct the wiring, make adjustments, or reinstall the pump or valve manually, but repairs to the control module and level sensor must be carried out by a specialist.


You can only get to the SMA Indesit drain pump through the bottom of the equipment from the front, this is what distinguishes it from analogues from other manufacturers

To find out without a monitor that it is the drainage system that has broken down, you need to check the indicators:

  • F05 - “Super wash”, “Rinse again” are turned on at the same time, or “Spin”, “Soak” are blinking;
  • F10 - “Quick Wash” and “Delayed Start” remain lit, or “Revolutions” and “Additional Rinse” blink, while “Door Block” blinks at high speed;
  • F11 - continuous lighting of “Delay”, “Quick wash”, “Re-rinse”, the second type - “Spin”, “Revolution”, “Additional rinse” flash simultaneously.

H2O that is different from others . From the outside it seems that this is the letter H and the number 20. In fact, the usual formula of water is used here as an indication that the breakdown is connected specifically with the “water” sphere.

The hint can appear simultaneously with another code, as an addition, and the same methods as described for F05, 10 and 11 are suitable for eliminating its consequences.

#4 - electronics failure (F06, F09, F12, F18)

If the display shows F06, F09, F12 or F18, the “brain” of the machine – the motherboard – has broken down. The washing machine does not react in any way to the given commands, and no matter how much you press the buttons, it only issues a certain code (when there is a screen).

Talking LEDs allow you to understand if the control module is damaged:

  • F06 – “Super wash” - “Quick wash” are active or “Additional rinse” - “Soak” are blinking, plus “Increased contamination” - “Iron” are on, “Lock” is blinking quickly;
  • F09 – “Delayed wash” - “Re-rinse” are active or “Revolutions” - “Spin” are blinking;
  • F12 – “Delayed wash” - “Super wash” are active or the speed indicator is flashing;
  • F18 – “Spin” - “Quick wash” are active or “Delay” - “Extra rinse” are blinking.

The only way to correct this situation on your own is to reboot the system. You should unplug everything from the network and leave it for half an hour, then plug it back in.

Checking the integrity of the electrical wiring will also help. All other methods require disassembly, repair and reinstallation of the control center.


The washing machine's motherboard is a sensitive electronic mechanism responsible for all work. That’s why the place where it is located (the area of ​​the “Start” button) should never be filled with water.

Position F06 is characterized by failure of the “Start” button, failure of the triac, or break in the wiring.

The infrequent error code F09 signals the need to replace the control contacts of the washing machine, reset the board settings, or reflash the entire module.

F12 marking indicates a breakdown in communication between the board and the indicator contacts.

Worst of all, when error F18 , the only way to correct it is to completely replace the entire system unit.

#5 - faulty heating element (F08, F14, F15)

The operation of a heating element - a tubular electric heater - allows an automatic washing machine to heat water and dry clothes. In Indesit models it is located in the rear.

Error F08 is one of the most common during the washing process. This means that the heating element is not functioning.

Among other signs of a malfunction: the laundry after the procedure turns out to be as dirty as before (for old prototypes), the laundry takes too long to wash, the process does not stop on its own, the laundry is still wet after drying ( F14 ), drying does not start at all after washing ( F15) .

If there is no monitor for different codes, the following lights up and freezes at the same time:

  • F08 – “Quick wash” or “Power”;
  • F14 – “Delayed start”, “Super mode”, “High speed mode”;
  • F15 – “Delayed start”, “Super mode”, “High speed mode”, “Additional rinse”.

What you need to do to fix it:

  • inspect the water level meter for damage;
  • find out if there are any blockages in the drainage system;
  • check the wiring and contacts between the heating element and the module for insulation and integrity, do the same for the heating element-thermostat connection;
  • test the control module.

Based on the inspection results, you will have to either replace the heating element, or reinstall one of the sensors (level, temperature), or install a completely new control unit.


The most famous reason for the breakdown of washing equipment is the same heating element. It is about its safety that so much is said in advertising when offering water softeners.

The need to replace electric heating tubes arises for owners most often, but this is quite easy to do without spending money on a technician. You will need a flat and shaped screwdriver and a socket wrench.

Work order:

  • Step 1 – completely separate the washing machine from all communications.
  • Step 2 – carefully turn the back wall towards you and remove the outer panel.
  • Step 3 – under the tank you can see the contacts of the heater, which goes inside, disconnect their terminals.

Next, we use a wrench with a head - with its help, the central bolt on the contact panel is unscrewed. After this, the heating element should be alternately picked up from several sides with a flat screwdriver and pulled towards you; the faulty element will be in your hands.


By easily reinstalling a tubular electric heater yourself, you can save a lot of money, since replacing this element by specialists costs from 1000 rubles

All that remains is to remove the thermometer from it and attach it in the same place to the new electric heater. Next, the heating element is installed to replace the old one in the reverse order, but first it is better to clean the seat from accumulated dirt.

#6 - incorrect drum position (F16)

This type of error appears only on washing machines with a vertical loading method. In this case, the washing procedure does not begin after pressing “Start” or suddenly stops in the middle of the cycle. The drum has fallen silent, the “Lock” light is blinking intensely.


The vertical loading drum should be secured with a special button before you start washing, otherwise the hatch will open when twisted and break the machine.

Necessary:

  • turn off the system, open the lid, move the drum with your hand - often it is jammed by a foreign object, for example, a torn button or hard parts of underwear - remove the obstacle, start the unit back;
  • inspect the drum hatch to see if it has accidentally swung open (due to damage) and is blocking movement;
  • the locking function - UBL is responsible for it - the hatch block device, replace if damaged;
  • the control module for serviceability and replace the faulty one.

A reverse failure may occur when the drum does not stop. The situation will be solved by disconnecting the washing machine from the network for 20 minutes.

#7 - hatch sealing does not work (F17)

A problem identical to the previous number in terms of symptoms is caused by the fact that the door could not be locked before starting.

On models without information screens, it appears simultaneously by the indication of the “Spin” and “Re-rinse” (“Power”) buttons or a combination of “Push-ups” and “Delayed start”.

Perhaps the lid just needs to be closed more tightly. If this does not work, check for foreign objects or breaks between the inlet hole and the hatch valve or between the hatch and the rubber lip. The door also does not close when the drum is overloaded.

Another option is that the UBL has deteriorated or the control center has shorted out. Replacing them will solve the problem. The third option is low voltage. This is often observed in individual houses, but it is not uncommon in apartments.

If the power supply does not reach 220 V, an electrical appliance of this size will not work.


The rubber seal between the body and the tub door can accumulate laundry waste or foreign objects that have fallen into the drum. This may cause the lock to fail to lock, so it is better to periodically clean the cuff cavities

The manufacturer Indesit received 19 signals about defects in the operation of its equipment.

If a situation arises that does not fit any of the described errors, you will have to contact a reliable service center or official representative office of the company individually.

We also recommend reading our other material, where we described in detail the popular malfunctions of Indesit washing machines and how to eliminate them. For more details, follow the link.

Broken or stretched drive belt

The motor transmits rotation to the drum using a drive belt. When the belt breaks or falls off the pulley, the Indesit washing machine works as usual (motor noise is heard, the machine fills and drains water), but the drum does not spin. There are also cases when the belt stretches and slips during the spin cycle. As a result, the machine does not spin.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
The machine hums, but the drum does not rotate at all or only during the spin cycle.The drive belt needs to be replaced.from 1400 rub.

Liquid is not drained from the tank

If the water does not drain, the reasons for the malfunction of the Indesit washing machine lie in a non-working pump or in the absence of a control signal. If the pump breaks, it will have to be replaced. Perhaps the absence of a control signal is due to a malfunction of the pressure sensor (a constant signal that the tank is empty) or a malfunction in the control unit. You need to check for blockages in the drainage system components - hose and filter. This is probably why the pump cannot remove water.

The pump winding may be broken or there may be no power supplied to it. This means that you need to check the connection circuit between the pump and the ECU with a multimeter, as well as the integrity of the pump winding. In working condition, its resistance should be in the range of 160–180 Ohms. If the pump is working properly, you need to check the serviceability of the ECU.


Askoll drain pump installed in many Indesit CM models

We understand the structure of Indesit washing machines

To repair an Indesit washing machine with your own hands, you need to understand its structure and the relationship of some parts to others. This will help more accurately determine the location of the problem and save time on disassembling components that are not involved in the problem. Indesit machines come with vertical and front loading. The latter are the most common. They include the following important components:

  • top cover;
  • front and rear detachable panels;
  • drum (steel or plastic);
  • a panel with control buttons, behind which the programmer or module is located;
  • an electric motor that provides rotation during washing and spinning;
  • a tank in which water accumulates and a drum with holes for collecting liquid rotates;
  • inlet valve;
  • drain filter;
  • pump for pumping water;
  • heating heating element;
  • speed and liquid level sensors;
  • shock absorbers and counterweight for stability;
  • compartment for powder and conditioner;
  • torque transmitting belt and pulley system.

There are machines without a belt drive, where the engine is made in the form of a huge tablet located on the same axis with the drum. Such devices have fewer mechanical components and lower vibration, so they break less often, but are more expensive.

Household appliances with mechanical controls are easier to operate, but if there is a malfunction in the program, the programmer itself needs to be replaced, which can only be done by a master. In machines with a display and electronic control, reconfiguration is available, but it requires an experienced specialist and computer equipment.

All other types of repairs to the Indesit washing machine can be done with your own hands, but to do this you need to correctly identify the breakdown.

DIY repair

Let's look at troubleshooting on different models of Indesit machines.

Before repairs, the device must be de-energized!

Wisl 82 and Wisl 83

Sequence of actions for replacing the bearing assembly in a Wisl 82 washing machine with a plastic tank:

  • disassemble the device, remove the tank with the drum;
  • cut the tank along the soldered seam, divide;
  • knock out the bearings, install new ones, lubricate them, install the oil seal;
  • clean the drum;
  • glue the halves of the tank with sealant, tighten them with self-tapping screws and bolts;
  • After the sealant has dried, assemble the device.

Replacing bearings in a Wisl 83 series device:

  • remove the top cover
  • unscrew the powder tray fasteners, remove the valves from the supply hoses
  • get the tray
  • disconnect the supply hose, drain pipe
  • unscrew the shock absorbers
  • remove the sealing rubber of the hatch
  • remove the top counterweight
  • get the side of their body
  • remove the lower counterweight, engine, pulley.

Further repairs are carried out similarly to the described repairs for the Wisl 82 model.

Wisl 102

To replace the electronic display unit in the Wisl 102 model you need:

  • remove the top cover;
  • remove the powder tray;
  • unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the panel with control buttons;
  • disconnect the switch handles;
  • bend the fasteners from the back of the panel and remove the block;
  • insert a working module, install and fix the indicator panel.

Wisl 105

If the power supply of the control module on Wisl 105 is faulty (all indicators blink), the repair consists of the following:

  • remove the back cover;
  • remove the power control unit (located on the inside of the left panel at the bottom), remembering (taking a photograph) the wiring diagram;
  • remove the cover and inspect the board;
  • find a swollen capacitor;
  • unsolder the defective part and replace it with a working one (capacitor capacity 680 mF, 10 V);
  • assemble the unit, put it in place, connect the wires.

Wiun 81

To replace the UBL (hatch blocking device) on a Wiun 81 series unit, you need:

  • remove the door seal;
  • unscrew the UBL mounting bolts;
  • remove the UBL through the hatch, disconnect the wires;
  • install a working UBL, fix it;
  • dismantle the control module and inspect it (if the UBL is short-circuited, the board may be damaged);
  • replace faulty parts or the entire board;
  • assemble the block and return it to its place.

Wisl 103

To clean the drain filter of the Wisl 103 model you need:

  • remove the plastic apron at the bottom of the front panel, using a screwdriver;
  • place a water container under the filter socket;
  • Unscrew the filter and drain the water;
  • clean and rinse the filter, remove foreign objects from the slot;
  • install in place, tighten the thread until it stops;
  • put on a plastic apron.

Ws 105 tx

When you turn on a program with water heating on the ws 105 tx machine, the programmer handle rotates without stopping, and washing does not occur. Causes of the problem and repair:

  1. The heating element has burned out.
  • extract, check contacts, call;
  • install the correct one.
  1. Pump failure.
  • remove, check the integrity of the rotor, ring the windings;
  • or faulty parts, replace them with a new one.
  1. Control board defective.
  • dismantle;
  • repair the damage or install a new one.

Wisl 85

The lock indicator of the Wisl 85 model flashes quickly, one of the modes flashes slowly. The reason is a breakdown of the engine, wear of the engine brushes. Repair work:

  • remove the back panel;
  • disconnect the wires from the motor;
  • unscrew the fastening bolts;
  • dismantle the engine;
  • ring the windings. If there is a short circuit, replace the motor;
  • remove the brushes;
  • Replace if severely worn. If minor, clean with fine sandpaper;
  • Assemble the engine and install it in place.

Iwsc 5105

The Iwsc 5105 machine does not drain water (code F11 - problems with the pump). Remedy:

  • disconnect the wires from the pump, ring them;
  • in case of breakdown - replace the wiring;
  • remove the pump, check the windings, inspect the rotor;
  • if the pump is working properly, remove the power control unit;
  • check the triac, resistors, relays. Replace defective ones;
  • start spin mode;
  • if the error remains, replace the unit.

Witl 86

To replace the heating element in the vertical model Witl 86 you need:

  • remove the right side panel;
  • disconnect the heater and temperature sensor terminals;
  • Unscrew the fasteners and remove the heater;
  • check with a short circuit tester;
  • replace the faulty one;
  • if there is no damage, clean off limescale with a solution of citric acid;
  • put the heating element and temperature sensor in place, connect the wires.

Iwub 4085

Sequence of actions to troubleshoot the Iwub 4085 electronic power unit:

  • open the back cover, remove the control unit;
  • connect the board to the computer, use a special program to check for errors in the memory block;
  • If there are no errors, reflash the device using the programmer. Firmware is downloaded from repair specialist forums;
  • assemble the block and put it in place.

Wiun 100

The Win 100 machine does not turn on, error F12 (no communication between the display unit and the control module), faulty module processor. Remedy:

  • remove the module;
  • connect to the programmer, upload the firmware;
  • if the computer indicates a processor error, replace;
  • solder the sp107156 processor (or its analogue) instead of the one that has become unusable (skill required);
  • assemble the block and install it in place.

Witl 1067

The Witl 1067 top-loading machine stops after starting. Reason: brush wear. Repair:

  • remove the right side panel;
  • unscrew the wires, unscrew the fasteners and remove the motor;
  • remove worn brushes from the brush holders;
  • insert new ones so that the bevel angle meets the technical requirements;
  • solder contacts;
  • clean the collector with alcohol;
  • install the brush mechanism on the engine;
  • install the engine in place.

Fill valve failure

The fill valve (FV) consists of an electromagnetic coil and a membrane, which opens when voltage is applied to the valve. The electromagnetic coil usually fails. In modern models, Indesit KEN consists of two sections: one section of the valve is responsible for the supply of water during washing, the second - for the supply during rinsing.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
The washing machine does not draw water at all or only during rinsing. Indesit models with a screen write error H20 or F10 on the display. The water supply valve needs to be replaced.from 1500 rub.

Normal operating cycle

For those who are unfamiliar with the normal operation of indesit automatic machines (and the principle of operation is the same), we will break down the classic process into stages and show typical errors.

  • at the first stage, the main work falls on the intake valve. He is the one responsible for filling the water. As soon as the required level is reached, the valve will close and the water supply will stop;
  • at the second stage, the water heating system is switched on to the specified program temperature. If there is no temperature sensor, the heating element in Indesit devices turns on and off according to a timer. As soon as the water heating process is started, the drum begins to rotate;
  • at the third stage, the pump is turned on again, which pumps dirty water into the drainage system. The dirty water is drained and cold water is supplied again;
  • the fourth stage is rinsing. By rotating the drum at low speeds, the machine removes the foam from the washing powder from the laundry, after which the water is pumped out again;
  • with the “Spin” mode, the fifth stage begins, during which the drum rotates at high speed, and the pump actively pumps water out of the washing machine.


Diagram of water movement in a washing machine
Experienced owners of indesit washing equipment have noticed that the filter elements that come with washing machines can often become clogged and can cause malfunctions in the drainage system and even breakage of the water supply valve. If you are confident in the quality of the water, it is better to remove the filter.

Another misconception concerns saving on electricity. In order to eliminate the operation of the heating element (heating element) from the process, some owners connect indesit to the hot water supply system. But not only do hot tap water contain aggressive substances that negatively affect the operation of the entire system of the device, but it can also lead to failure of the valve that is responsible for draining and collecting water.

The hatch cuff is torn

Constant vibrations, friction and variable loads do their job. The rubber seal simply wears out. Another reason is washing things with sharp fittings. Belt buckles, decorative zippers, and even sharp objects left in pockets can damage the cuff and cause it to leak.

SignsHow to fixPrice*
The Indesit washing machine leaks during washing, rinsing or spinning.If the cuff is not badly damaged, then it can be sealed and installed with the sealed side up so that there is no direct contact with water. In case of serious damage, the rubber seal must be replaced. from 2000 rub.

*Parts are not included in the price and must be paid separately.

Errors related to the ECU board

The memory chips located on the control unit board contain all service algorithms and washing programs. If a failure occurs, the memory must be removed from the ECU (unsoldered or removed from the microcircuit connectors) and reprogrammed with a special device - a programmer.

If the connection between the display module and the ECU board is broken, this malfunction of the Indesit washing machine manifests itself in the lack of response to buttons and the inability to execute programs. If after disconnecting from the 220 V network and rebooting the ACM nothing has changed, check the condition of the connectors and the reliability of the switching connections. The most likely fault is in the display module board or ECU.


Control and display module in some Indesit CM models

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