How to overcome errors in a multicooker: typical fault codes

Typical errors and their characteristics

Each multicooker model has a user manual, which shows possible causes of errors and the inability to continue operation.
In some cases, the same code may indicate several malfunctions at once, so this factor must be taken into account.

Before you take your multicooker in for repair, you can try to find out what exactly is the reason. The following tip will help with this.

Expert opinion Pavel Maksimovich Torsunov In some cases, errors cannot be eliminated independently or their code is displayed incorrectly. Then you cannot do without qualified repair specialists. Initially, you need to understand what could trigger the appearance of a particular code on the display and try to eliminate this reason as far as possible.

E1

This error occurs in three cases:

1. There is a hole in the bowl through which the liquid enters the heating element.
2. Foreign objects and food residues get on the heating element, which causes combustion processes.
3. Malfunction of the ten itself and its burnout.

To make sure the heater is working properly, it is recommended to unplug the multicooker, carefully open the lid and remove the bowl. Next, plug the plug into the outlet and control the heating process. Its absence provides the answer to why the E1 code appeared.

E2

This problem most often occurs due to a break in certain parts of the cable, the connection of which to the multicooker does not cause it to turn on. You can check this reason by connecting an alternative cable (you can ask your friends or neighbors). If the device works when it is connected, then the reason has been found.

Sometimes E2 appears when the thermal sensor located at the top is shorted. It is recommended to open the lid, carefully remove the bowl and observe the operation of the heating element when the plug is plugged in. If the error appears again when closing the lid, then the malfunction has been found.

E3

The most common mistake that occurs is when the lid is not tightly closed. In some models it is accompanied by a characteristic sound signal.

It also appears when liquid gets on the heating element. It is necessary to carefully remove the bowl and look at its condition from below. Perhaps crumbs, small particles of vegetables, cereals have stuck to it.

E4

The most difficult error, as it indicates a malfunction in the central board, which regulates all processes of the multicooker. The second reason is a malfunction of the pressure sensor. Only a specialist can find the problem and fix it.

E5

If the machine is used throughout the day and the heating element experiences increased loads, the automation is triggered, which provokes a forced shutdown. This is necessary to prevent the heating element from burning out prematurely.

Thermal fuse

The above-mentioned device, for which they asked for 5,000 rubles to repair, suffered from a common disease. The self-taught master opened the multicooker body, poured out the porridge, got to the thermal fuse, and replaced it. Then, having assembled the device, he gave it to the owner.

What is a thermal fuse. When it comes to repairing a multicooker, we are talking about a cylindrical piece of wire that strongly resembles a resistor in appearance. The operating temperature is 170 ºС, the maximum current is 10 - 15 A, depending on the type of element. When these parameters fall outside the permissible range, the thermal fuse burns, breaking the electrical circuit in which it is connected.

Why can't you make this item yourself? Firstly, the cost of the element is modest, and secondly, they installed a thermal fuse for a reason. A homemade copy has different characteristics, which will not lead to good things. Repairing a multicooker at home using such amateur activities will, in the worst case, end in a fire.

Kitchen Pressure Cooker Errors

A multicooker-pressure cooker can also give an E4 error. Typically, the problem with such devices is associated with a violation of the thermal control function or simple overheating. If you disassemble the cover, you will find that the thermal relay has failed. In this case, it is necessary to replace it.

But it is worth remembering that sometimes such an error does not mean a serious breakdown, but only signals a malfunction in the electronic system of the product. Therefore, before diagnostics, it is recommended to disconnect the equipment from the network and turn it on again after a few minutes.

Malfunctions of the Smile multicooker

The Smile multicooker can display an E4 error for various reasons. If you refer to the instructions, you can highlight the following:

• break in the temperature sensor circuit;
• simple overheating.
• The thermostatic sensor is clogged.

Depending on the cause, the ways to solve the problem differ. Sometimes unplugging it from the network for a while will help restore normal operation of the device. It is also worth checking whether water from the work surface or bowl gets inside the product.

If, at first glance, everything is in order, then you need to turn the device over, unscrew the screws and remove the bottom. Next, you should find the copper contacts that are located in the thermostat. They should be loosened and sandpaper placed between them.

Typical malfunctions for most multicooker models

Regardless of the manufacturer or the features of a particular model of kitchen appliance, the reasons for error codes e1-e5 on the control panel of the most popular multicookers are largely similar. In general, malfunctions in the operation of these household appliances arise due to:

• moisture getting inside;
• ingress of foreign objects and substances;
• short circuit or breakage of sensors;
• contaminated contacts;
• pressure sensor triggered;
• absence of a bowl or its deformation;
• incorrect position of the multicooker lid;
• burnout of power and control boards.

Modern electronic devices are able to indicate possible problems in their operation using alphanumeric identifiers - error codes

If we consider specific cases, error e0 indicates the incorrect position of the device cover - it is not closed due to the incorrect position of the silicone seal or is deformed. The problem may also lie in an open circuit in the upper temperature sensor.

Malfunctions e1 and e2 mean either the presence of foreign elements between the bowl and the bottom of the device, or mechanical damage to the temperature sensor in the lower part of the multicooker. They may also indicate unsoldered sensor sockets on the control board below. Error e3 is most often an indicator of moisture getting between the appliance bowl and the heating element.

IMPORTANT. Proper operation of the pressure cooker, maintaining its cleanliness and safety from mechanical damage is the key to long-term use of the device without the need for repairs.

The most difficult repair will be required when the e4 symbol is displayed, which means there are problems with the pressure sensor at the bottom of the device. If the e5 indicator is on, then this is an automatic signal about problems with overheating of the product or the absence of a bowl inside the multicooker. The problem in this case may also lie in the fact that the steam valves are clogged, the device is located near heating devices, or the wiring is burned out.

Typical causes of Redmond product malfunctions

Like refrigerators, stoves and other household appliances, multicookers break down from time to time. But developers provide users with the opportunity to troubleshoot problems on their own.

Any item, including multicookers, needs electricity. Also check the mains voltage using a stabilizer (if any), the correct installation of the bowl and the level of contamination of the heater.

In some cases, the lid may not close, so you should check the integrity of the seals.

Eliminating errors E4 and E5

The multicooker displays error E5 - the automation has protected the product from overheating. This can happen for various reasons; each specific case must be dealt with without haste. In this case, many users ask a logical question: what to do when the Redmond multicooker displays error E5? Manufacturers of domestic household appliances have introduced special software to effectively protect the entire body and individual parts of the product from overheating.

When, when you turn on the multicooker, the temperature sensor located in the lid gives a strong heating signal, the device stops the heating process and displays an error. Sometimes the housewife, in a hurry, simply forgot to put the bowl inside the device. In another case, the product will issue such a code if food has been placed in the bowl, but no water has been added to prepare it.

Most often, it will be enough to carry out a number of very simple manipulations:

• immediately turn off the product by pressing the “start” symbol on the display;
• disconnect the multicooker from the network by removing the plug from the socket;
• open the top cover to lower the internal temperature;
• wait at least 20 minutes until the device cools down sufficiently.

We check that you have added everything to the cooking bowl; if you have already prepared soup or broth for borscht, then you need to add boiled water at room temperature. We turn on the mode again: if a similar error occurs again, then you need to go to the nearest service center, where your assistant will be diagnosed using special equipment and all your questions will be answered.

Error E4 - to cope with this problem you need some experience and skills in working with sandpaper, because you need to clean the contacts of the pressure sensor. If after cleaning the product does not turn on, then again you will have to contact the service center; without a qualified technician you will not be able to handle it with a special tool.

Pressure sensor diagnostics

General rules for correcting errors

A technically complex household appliance is a multicooker. What to do with error E4? Usually the device signals overheating. This can happen when the user in a hurry forgot to put a bowl of food inside. If the bowl is in place, then you need to carry out the following series of actions:

• Turn off the device by pressing the corresponding button and unplugging the power cord from the outlet.
• To reduce the temperature inside, you need to open the lid.
• We wait at least 20 minutes until the product has completely cooled down.
• Only after this can you remove the bottom of the device.

If error E4 is flashing, then skills in working with power tools and sandpaper will come in handy. Typically you will need to clean the sensor contacts before measuring their resistance. If, after the manipulation, the multicooker does not turn on or you lack the necessary skills, you should contact service centers.

Basic operating rules

Compliance with basic safety principles when preparing food will help you avoid situations where error E5 may occur. The Redmond multicooker will last a long time, provided that the main rules of careful operation are followed:

1. It is recommended to rinse the bowl thoroughly after each cooking, allow it to dry completely and only then place it in the multicooker body.

2. Regularly wash the valve on the lid to remove sediment and scale residues.

3. Make sure that the lid is tightly closed before turning on the programs, since a loosely closed lid can cause error E5 to be displayed on the control panel display.

4. Place the multicooker on a flat, hard surface.

5. Connect the electrical wire to serviceable grounded sockets or special surge protectors.

You should carefully read the operating instructions for the multicooker. Following the rules of use will allow owners to enjoy preparing delicious and healthy dishes, turning everyday cooking into an easy, stress-free activity without any extra hassle.

The cooking efficiency and multifunctional capabilities of multicookers from the Redmond model range are known to many housewives, which is why the products are in high demand. However, like all household appliances, such devices sometimes break down during operation or do not start the cooking mode because errors with the letter E appear on the display of the Redmond multicooker.

E 1
appears on the display .
As a rule, this means that moisture has gotten inside the product, and to prevent individual parts from burning out, the automation warns the user in this way that it is necessary to urgently disconnect the product from the network.

All error options for multicookers from the Redmond company with the E symbol are described in great detail in the operating instructions supplied by the manufacturer, and recommendations for eliminating them may also be indicated there.

Different instructions interpret error codes slightly differently:

1. For example, if the device displays an E1 error, this may mean not only moisture ingress, but also burnout of the heating element.
2. When the automatic display shows error E3, then in this case you need to either dry the insides of the product directly under the bowl or check that the multicooker lid is tightly closed.
3. Error E2 may also appear if there is a short circuit in the upper thermal sensor located in the cover of the product.
4. Sometimes a household appliance displays error E2 when the connecting wire has broken, so you need to check it with a multimeter or ohmmeter in any case. We'll talk about elimination methods a little later.

Common Error Codes

When you connect the device to the network and try to start the program, an error may appear. The most common are E1, E2 or E3. In this case, it can be assumed that water has entered the unit. The automation built into the product warns the owner that it is necessary to disconnect the device from the network in order to protect individual parts from overheating. Any error is always described in the accompanying instructions; the document also provides detailed instructions on how to possibly correct the situation.

However, in the annotations for different models you can find slightly different interpretations of faults:

• If the E1 symbol lights up, then perhaps moisture is not the only cause of the breakdown. If the heating element burns out, this signal may also flash.
• If there is a short circuit in the sensor, which is located inside the cover of the device, the E2 signal lights up.
• The E2 signal may also appear if the connecting wire is broken. To check the assumption, you need to use an ohmmeter or multimeter to determine the presence of electric current.
• If the product produces an E3 error, then there are two possible ways to fix it. It is necessary to check the tightness of the lid or dry the inside of the multicooker located under the bowl.

Distinctive features of the Redmond multicooker

The range of Redmond multicookers is quite wide and is represented by various types of all price categories. The budget series of multicookers is affordable and has functions that allow you to cook main dishes using a limited number of programs. More expensive models have expanded functionality and differ in appearance. Despite the visual and functional differences, Redmond multicookers are reliable, safe, ergonomic and indispensable in everyday life. With their help, you can prepare delicious and healthy food: porridge, side dishes, roasted meats and gravies, jellied meats, jelly and other dishes.

Multicooker "Redmond": error E4

The error codes listed apply to any multicooker and mean approximately the same thing. If the E4 signal blinks, then it is necessary to take into account the model of the device.

Consider the Redmond multicooker. Error E4 means a problem with the pressure sensor. Most likely it is clogged. However, the cause of the breakdown may also be a malfunction of the electronic board. The signal does not provide accurate information, so you will have to check all the possible causes. It is possible that the automation worked and the device simply turned off so that the motor did not overheat.

In any case, if an error code is detected, you must carefully inspect the product for malfunction. If there is insufficient experience or the cause is not found, it is recommended to contact a service center.

Basic operating rules

Compliance with basic safety principles when preparing food will help you avoid situations where error E5 may occur. The Redmond multicooker will last a long time, provided that the main rules of careful operation are followed:

1. It is recommended to rinse the bowl thoroughly after each cooking, allow it to dry completely and only then place it in the multicooker body.

2. Regularly wash the valve on the lid to remove sediment and scale residues.

3. Make sure that the lid is tightly closed before turning on the programs, since a loosely closed lid can cause error E5 to be displayed on the control panel display.

4. Place the multicooker on a flat, hard surface.

5. Connect the electrical wire to serviceable grounded sockets or special surge protectors.

You should carefully read the operating instructions for the multicooker. Following the rules of use will allow owners to enjoy preparing delicious and healthy dishes, turning everyday cooking into an easy, stress-free activity without any extra hassle.

Repair of Vitesse multicookers

• Repair of any models
• Spare parts are in stock
• Masters with many years of experience

We will deliver the Vitesse multicooker to the service center and select spare parts. We will agree on the cost with you, carry out urgent repairs to the Vitesse crock pot, and deliver it back.

from 900 rub.

• Repair of any models
• Masters with many years of experience
• Spare parts are in stock

Service technicians have been performing high-quality repairs of Vitesse multicookers for many years. Our service provides repair services for Vitesse multicookers in Moscow and Moscow Region, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg, Voronezh, Nizhny Novgorod and Chelyabinsk.

Our service center has extensive experience in repairing multicookers of all brands and models.

Vitesse multicookers are the same traditional German quality that you can hear about in any advertisement for products from this brand. Moreover, no one doubts the accuracy of this statement.

The manufacturer produces reliable and durable devices, uses | uses} only high-quality components with excellent wear resistance.

For what reasons might you still need to repair Vitesse multicookers? There are only a few of them:

• non-compliance with the rules for using a multicooker;
• ignoring the manufacturer's requirements for unit maintenance;
• low-quality water, including substances harmful to the non-stick coating or abrasives;
• natural wear and tear. This problem may arise only after several years of intensive use of the equipment.

Regardless of the exact reasons why your unit failed, it is better to immediately contact a service center. We know exactly how to fix this or that problem, restore the device and return you to the comfort of preparing a wide variety of dishes.

What kind of breakdowns do we fix as part of the repair of Vitesse multicookers?

Cooperation with us will allow you to carry out maintenance of kitchen appliances of this brand at the right time, as well as promptly eliminate the following malfunctions:

• the device does not start or turns off much earlier than prescribed by the program you specified. In this situation, you will need competent diagnostics, which will make it possible to detect the cause of the problem;
• program failure, sudden stop;
• unpleasant plastic odor coming from the device. This problem bothers many users. But our repairmen will definitely be able to tell you simple ways to solve it;
• The device timer does not work. This is a minor but annoying problem that prevents you from tracking the cooking time of a dish. We will definitely help you get rid of it too;
• The device leaks during operation.

We fix all these and other problems right at the client’s home. You do not need to take the unit to the workshop to replace the electronic module or heating element, since the service technician will bring with him everything necessary for high-quality diagnostics before repairing the Vitesse multicooker.

Troubleshooting instructions for E4 and E5 multicookers

Problems with the pressure sensor (code e4) at the bottom of the device can be solved by passing a narrow strip of regular paper or sandpaper between the sensor contacts. This must be done carefully so as not to completely break the resistors.

An open circuit or a malfunction in the microprocessor is also possible - this is the most difficult case in which the unit must be checked completely and obviously not at home.

The heating element of the device is secured through the mounting plate with three bolts

If the control panel displays error e5 - an indicator of device overheating, then repair involves performing the following steps:

1. Turn off the device using the “Start” button.
2. Disconnect the multicooker from the power source.
3. Open the lid and remove the bowl using protective gloves.
4. Leave the device and bowl to cool for 20-30 minutes.

What you should never do when repairing a device

Attempts to troubleshoot an electronic mechanism are unacceptable in the following cases:

• the multicooker stopped turning on and responding to any influence;
• different error codes are displayed or the display shows unreadable characters;
• there is visible damage to the device housing or electrical cable;
• the heating element does not perform its function;
• no information about temperature;
• it is impossible to achieve a sealed lid.

All error codes and their descriptions for a specific model of a specific manufacturer must be indicated in the instructions that come with the multicooker. If this information is not in the user manual, you can contact official representatives of the brand or specialists from a certified service center, who are required to provide warranty service for the devices.

You can try to repair the multicooker yourself, but it is better to immediately entrust the repair of this electronic kitchen utensil to a qualified technician with experience and a supply of the necessary components. Then the updated kitchen assistant will serve honestly for a long time.

Frequent breakdowns and errors

Any, even the most elite and expensive multicooker can cause failures and malfunctions. But, to be honest, most problems with multicookers arise due to improper operation or due to oversight or negligence, that is, through the fault of the user himself.

It’s even worse if, by the time it breaks down, the multicooker has already become so in demand and indispensable in your kitchen that its absence has become a serious problem. It is clear that after the familiar and convenient electronic device, using a regular saucepan will no longer be entirely comfortable, so let’s talk about the most common failures and breakdowns of multicookers.

Security measures

The first and most important point: if the multicooker does not turn on, does not turn off, does not start in the desired mode, and so on, you need to immediately disconnect it from the power supply! Under no circumstances should you use a faulty multicooker, much less try to repair it while it’s on!

A modern multicooker is capable of diagnosing some malfunctions of its components and assemblies. To do this, the device program includes a function for displaying information about a breakdown on the display. For example, it is not uncommon for an error with the index “E” and a set of numbers to appear on the display screen. To identify a breakdown in such cases, you need to look at the multicooker operating manual and check the list of breakdowns.

E3

For example, the “E3” error that appears means that moisture has usually entered the pressure cooker, that is, directly under the removable bowl. If time and certain skills allow, then in this case, the damage is corrected by removing the bottom of the multicooker for a long and 100% drying of the device. You can use a household hair dryer - with a warm air flow the drying process will go even faster.

E4

A little more experience and skills will be needed if the display shows the “E4” index - most likely, the pressure sensor is clogged. In this case, to correct the problem you will need to pass a piece of fine (grit) sandpaper between the sensor contacts. If the procedure does not help, contact the service center, only there they will be able to professionally diagnose and fix the broken multicooker.

Steam from under the lid

It is not uncommon for problems in the operation of a multicooker to be noticed even without display signals. The most common case is steam escaping from under the lid. In this case, you can visually determine the problem - this is a problem with the sealing ring of the multicooker lid. Perhaps the ring has already worn out in some places, or when closing the lid you moved the ring from its seat.

If you notice that preventive maintenance does not help correct the problem, do not hesitate to contact your nearest service center for qualified assistance.

It is better to immediately take multicookers with the following problems to a specialized service center:

• the multicooker does not respond to user actions;
• the temperature sensor does not display information;
• the display shows an unknown error message;
• there is damage to the cable or housing;
• no auto-programming;
• violation of the tightness of the multicooker;
• malfunction of the pressure limit valve.

The most common reasons affecting the performance of a multicooker:

• Failure to comply with operating rules. Before using the multicooker for the first time, carefully read the instructions for use and the rules for safe use. There you will find typical malfunctions, their correction and prevention.
• Mechanical damage. Naturally, the multicooker is stronger than your smartphone or tablet, but not so strong that it can withstand various shocks or falls without errors. Any damage to the housing, cable, plug, etc. – can lead to serious malfunctions in the operation of the multicooker.
• Manufacturing defect. This happens, or rather, can happen with any model of multicooker, even if it is super expensive and super prestigious. In this case, you should absolutely not carry out independent repairs - only the nearest service center.

Discussions

Good evening! I have a question for you, then specialists or people who have encountered a similar malfunction. The point is, when you turn on the Pilaf mode in the multicooker - pressure cooker moulinex ce500e32, the following happens: the multicooker gains pressure for a while (warms up), then instead of the allotted 20 minutes, it sets the time to 1 minute, and that’s it. Then it goes into heating mode. The valve is not stuck, the cover gasket is in place. My only guess is that the ratio of water to dish was initially chosen incorrectly (there was not enough water). After that, we removed part of the dish, added water, turned on the pilaf mode, then stewed, the result was the same. Maybe she should cool down? Or is it now time to go to the service center? The slow cooker is 2 months old.

What error codes can appear in the Brand 502 multicooker?

In the Brand 502 multicooker, failures most often occur with the pressure sensor at the bottom of the device, as well as in the event of poor contact between the bowl of the device and the heating part.

The most common malfunction of multicookers from the manufacturer Brand 502 is error code e3, which means a malfunction with the pressure sensor or deformation of the device bowl

You can repair the device yourself only if the cause was: lack of contact between the bowl and the heating element, foreign objects between them, or the absence of the bowl itself in the device. In other cases, it will not be possible to repair the multicooker at home; you should contact a service center.

Multicooker: error codes, breakdowns and what they mean

Almost all modern multicookers are equipped with a small display that allows you to navigate not only when choosing programs, but also in case of problems. Manufacturers have made sure that during operation it is easier to diagnose the problem and solve it. Each manufacturer has its own coding of errors, which are written about in the instructions for the device. The most common types of multicooker breakdowns, error codes E1, E2, E3, E4, E5 and their meanings are further in the text.

Repairing a multicooker at home: how to open the device correctly

When troubleshooting a problem yourself, you need to understand that the device is void of the factory warranty - only the owner of the multicooker is responsible for the result obtained or the lack thereof. In the future, free maintenance and replacement of defective or failed components at the service center will be excluded.

If the multicooker breaks down during the warranty period, then it is more rational to entrust its repair to professional craftsmen from the service center: it will be cheaper and faster

How to repair a multicooker with your own hands

Having studied the structure and operating principle of the multicooker, it will not be at all difficult to repair it with your own hands. Often, for repairs, all you need is a screwdriver, but if you’re unlucky, then also a multimeter and an electric soldering iron.

Decoding error codes for the REDMOND multicooker

If the multicooker does not work, then in case of some malfunctions, an error code may appear on the display, indicating which element or unit is supposedly faulty.

As you can see, self-diagnosis in multicookers is not very informative, and error codes do not provide any useful information for repair, but only inform that the multicooker needs to be repaired.

The multicooker does not work, the display does not light up

If the multicooker does not work, and the display does not even light up, then the first thing you need to do is make sure that there is supply voltage in the outlet to which the power cord is connected. To do this, just connect any household appliance, such as a table lamp, to it.

The multicooker is a stationary household appliance and therefore the power cord cannot fray during its operation. But if pets live in the apartment, then it is quite possible that the cord could be damaged by their teeth. Therefore, it is necessary to visually inspect the cord for damage and at the same time check whether it is well inserted into the multicooker connector.

If the above steps do not lead to success, then you need to unplug the cord from the socket and remove the bottom cover of the multicooker by unscrewing one screw. The lid is additionally secured with several latches, but they are small and the lid is easily separated from the body.

After removing the cover, you must carefully inspect the places where the wires are connected to the network connector and the terminals of the heating element. The wires must fit tightly to the contacting surfaces of the terminals and no blackening or carbon deposits should be visible.

If loose contacts are found, then the screws need to be tightened, and if they are burnt, then clean the contacts using fine sandpaper. After this, you need to check the functionality of the multicooker.

Checking the switch, thermal fuse and heating element

If the inspection did not reveal the malfunction, then it is necessary to check the switch and thermal fuse, which are connected to each other by a thick red wire. To do this, you need to use a multimeter or pointer tester, in resistance measurement mode, to touch points 1 and 2 with the probes; the resistance should be zero. At the same time, you need to ring the heating element, measuring the resistance between points 1 and 3 (or 2 and 3). It should be equal to the resistance of the heating element spiral, and, depending on its power, be 30-80 Ohms.

If the resistance between points 1 and 2 approaches infinity, then the switch or thermal fuse is faulty. To check the switch, you need to set its key to the “on” position and touch its exposed terminals with the probes of the device. The resistance should be zero. If the switch is working properly, then the thermal fuse is checked next.

To check the thermal fuse, you need to release the rack that attaches it to the multicooker body and move the insulating tube. Next, touch the multimeter probes to its terminals. The resistance should be zero. Otherwise, the thermal fuse has failed and must be replaced. The method of replacing the thermal fuse is discussed in the article “Do-it-yourself heater repair.” The thermal fuse has no polarity, so it can be installed as convenient.

How to check the switch and thermal fuse without instruments

You can check the serviceability of the switch and fuse without a measuring device. To do this, just connect points 1 and 2 with a piece of wire with a cross-section of at least 1 mm2. After that, replace the lid and connect the multicooker to the network. If it works, it means the thermal fuse has failed. It is unacceptable to operate a multicooker with a shorted thermal fuse, except as a last resort, and under the obligatory condition that a person is near it.

Checking the Control Unit

The display may not glow if the CU board is not supplied with a 5 V DC supply voltage from the BOD or the microprocessor has failed. The presence of voltage can be checked using a multimeter. If the voltage is normal, then it is necessary to remove the board from the multicooker and carefully inspect for blackening or destruction of elements, the integrity of printed conductors and the quality of soldering.

To remove the control board from the multicooker body, you need to unscrew two screws, as shown in the photo.

Next, remove the upper part of the control unit from the multicooker body and move it up. To access the printed circuit board, you will also need to remove the plastic cover, which is held in place by four self-tapping screws.

If the CU board does not receive a 5 V supply voltage, then the fault should be looked for in the BOD. If the supply voltage is supplied to the control unit board and an external inspection does not reveal any defects, then the microprocessor has failed and you will have to purchase a new control unit for repair. The microprocessor installed in the multicooker control unit is programmed for the algorithm of its operation, and simply replacing it will not help to repair the multicooker.

Malfunctions may still occur in the control board that do not affect its performance, but reduce the comfort of use. This is poor operation of the buttons, lack of display numbers or indication of the turned on cooking mode. Such malfunctions are eliminated by replacing the failed element.

The multicooker does not work, the display lights up

If one of the E-error codes is displayed on the control panel display, then the power cord, switch and thermal fuse are in order. Thermal resistances, heating elements or power and switching units may be faulty.

How to check thermal resistance

Thermal resistances in the multicooker are connected directly to the Control Unit using two separate connectors. A white connector with blue wires coming from it is connected to a thermistor, which is located in the lid of the multicooker. And using a black connector with white wires, a thermistor installed in the bottom glass of the multicooker is connected.

Before checking the thermal resistances, it is necessary to disconnect the connectors from the Control Unit. To measure thermal resistances you will need a multimeter or pointer device.

Next, use the multimeter probes to touch the contacts of one and then the other connector and measure the resistance value. The polarity of connecting the multimeter probes does not matter. If you place your palm on the place where the thermal resistance is installed during measurement, its value will increase.

The REDMOND RMC-M23 multicooker is equipped with thermal resistances of the same size, type MF58 with a nominal value of 50 kOhm. In multicookers of other models, the rating may be different. Thermal resistance is operational if its value is not zero or infinity.

How to check the heating element

Heating elements in household electrical appliances are usually the last to fail. A separate article “How to check and ring a tubular electric heater heating element” is devoted to the device and methods for checking the heating element.

The photo shows the findings of the heating element. The resistance of the spiral of a working heating element of the REDMOND RMC-M23 multicooker should be about 80 Ohms.

How to check the Power and Switching Unit

If in the previous steps the cause of the multicooker malfunction was not discovered, then you need to check the Power and Switching Unit (BPK). This unit operates in severe temperature conditions and may fail first.

In the REDMOND RMC-M23 multicooker, the +5 V voltage that powers the Control Unit (CU) and +12 V to power the switching circuit are obtained from the 220 V mains voltage using two separate circuits. Therefore, in the multicooker that had to be repaired, the part of the BOD circuit that generates the +5 V voltage worked, so the control unit worked and displayed error code E1 on the display. There was no +12 V voltage.

Upon careful inspection of the parts of the BOD, the attention was drawn to the resistor-fuse R100, the gray color of which was uneven. The multimeter showed that its resistance was infinity, although according to the color marking it should be 100 ohms.

To repair the BOD board, it must be removed. The board is attached to the base of the multicooker using two screws with metric threads and nuts, which must be held when unscrewing the screws. It is possible to get to the nuts only from the installation side of the cooking bowl by removing the heating element, which is secured with three screws. It is not necessary to disconnect the wires from the heating element terminals.

When the resistor was removed from the circuit board, it became obvious that it had burned out. This is clearly visible in the photograph. The resistor in the circuit functions not only as a current limiter, but also as a fuse. Consequently, its destruction was caused by the large current flowing through it, which could only flow in the event of a short circuit in the elements connected after this resistor.

To make it easy to find the malfunction of the multicooker, I drew part of the electrical circuit diagram of the BOD, which is responsible for generating a voltage of +12 V. Checking the resistance between the terminals of capacitor C3 showed the presence of a short circuit. Capacitor C3 and resistor R1 were soldered off, but the short circuit did not disappear. It became obvious that the PN8024R chip was faulty.

To be completely sure, I found a typical connection diagram for the PN8024R microcircuit, which you see above. Since a short circuit occurred between the SW and GND terminals, it became obvious that a breakdown had occurred between the drain and source of the field-effect transistor inside the microcircuit and to restore the operation of the multicooker, it must be replaced.

Upon closer inspection of the microcircuit body, small local darkening was discovered on the side with markings, which are clearly visible in the photograph.

How to replace a standard +12 V source with an external power supply

The PN8024R chip turned out to be rarely used in household appliances, and it could only be obtained several weeks after ordering it online. There were several adapters available from different computer devices, and the idea arose to select a suitable adapter for +12 V voltage and replace the non-working part of the BOD circuit with it.

The choice fell on the adapter, on the body of which it was stated that it produces a constant voltage of +12 V and is designed for a load current of up to 200 mA, which fully corresponded to the parameters of the PN8024R microcircuit. However, when testing this adapter at a 60 Ohm load, it turned out that the output voltage is 17 V. Obviously, the unit produces an unstabilized voltage, which is stabilized in the device to which the unit is connected. Such a block was clearly not suitable for the output voltage.

There was no longer an adapter with an output voltage of 12 V, but one with an output voltage of 9 V. Taking into account the fact that it was necessary to power a circuit consisting of only two transistors and a relay, I decided to check whether it would work on nine volts. After all, electromechanical type relays usually operate when a much lower voltage is applied to the winding than according to the passport. Testing the adapter under and without load showed that the output voltage does not change and is equal to 9 V.

Before connecting the adapter to the BOD, you must disable the standard stabilizer. To do this, you need to unsolder resistor R100 and diode D106, as in the photo.

There was no 100% certainty that the 9 V adapter would work. In order not to open the adapter case or cut its output cord during testing, the adapter was connected to the multicooker BOD via a standard connector. The plus is located on the central pin of the connector.

The terminals from the connector were soldered, observing polarity, parallel to the terminals of capacitor C105 of the BOD board. The bottom cover was installed in place, the multicooker was connected to the network and then the adapter was plugged into the network. The multicooker started working. To check the reliability of its operation, water was poured into the cooking bowl to the brim, and in the “Cooking” mode of the multicooker, the water was brought to a boil and boiled for 45 minutes until the timer went off. Tests confirmed the correctness of the chosen solution.

All that remains is to install the adapter in the multicooker and connect it to the BOD. To do this, the contact pads of the adapter board, to which it is necessary to supply a supply voltage of 220 V, were connected using wires to the terminals of the BOD board, as in the photograph (yellow and red wires). The +9 V supply voltage was supplied using a pair of red and black wires.

For better thermal operation of the adapter, the part of the case on which the power plug was located was not installed. The photo shows the view of the multicooker, with the bottom lid raised and the adapter attached to it.

Before attaching the adapter to the lid, a place was chosen that would prevent it from resting on the multicooker part after closing the lid. A hole was drilled in the lid so that the threaded part of the self-tapping screw would pass freely, and in the adapter body so that it could be screwed in. The photo shows the head of the screw that secures the adapter to the multicooker.

The multicooker does not remember manually set cooking modes

After many years of use, the REDMOND RMC-M23 multicooker may, after disconnecting it from the network, stop saving manually selected cooking programs in the “multi-cook” mode. This is usually due to the battery being discharged.

The battery is usually installed in the Power and Switching Unit. The appearance of the battery is shown in the photograph. Similar 3V CR2032 batteries are widely used in consumer electronics. To check a battery, you need to measure the voltage at its terminals. It should not be less than 3 V, otherwise the battery must be replaced.

Repairing the multicooker lid hinge

In the multicooker that had to be repaired, in addition, the hinge holding the lid was broken. It was possible to cook food, but there was no seal, and if handled carelessly, the wires connecting the thermal resistance installed in the lid to the control board could easily be torn.

The multicooker lid consists of two halves, which had to be separated to repair the hinges. The lid halves are fastened together using several latches.

The latches are small and therefore the lid can be easily separated using a flat-head screwdriver squeezed between its halves. The photo shows one of the latches.

In order to get to the mating part of the loop, you need to remove the steam condensate collector and unscrew one screw. It turned out that the yellow-green wire grounding the lid was broken.

Both cover hinge pin holders were seriously broken. Yes, this is not surprising, since the part of the cover that holds the hinge axis was plastic and only a couple of millimeters thick. The mistake of the multicooker developers is obvious.

A steel paper clip was used to repair the hinge eye. One end of it was first straightened and then bent at an angle and cut with side cutters along the yellow line, as in the photograph. Next, the corners of the paperclip were fused into the base of the lid. This work requires patience. It is necessary to hold the part made from a paper clip with tweezers and heat it by applying a soldering iron tip to it until it is sunk into the plastic base of the lid to the required depth.

In the photo you see the result of repairing the multicooker lid hinge. The appearance is not very beautiful, but the loop will be covered by the second half of the lid and will not be visible from the outside. But the restored loop turned out to be much stronger than the previous one.

Why does food stick to the walls of the multicooker bowl?

Many multicooker users eventually encounter the problem of food sticking to the walls of the bowl. In this case, solid products, regardless of the amount of oil poured, begin to stick to both the walls of the bowl, coated with Teflon (fluoroplastic) and with a ceramic coating.

There can be two reasons for sticking - a violation of the temperature regime of the multicooker or wear on the coating of the bowl. The answer is simple. If stuck food also burns, then the temperature regime is to blame, and if it sticks without burning, then the coating of the bowl has worn out.

All attempts to restore the quality of the coating using vinegar, table salt or other methods can only give a temporary effect. If the coating of the pan is worn out, then only buying a new bowl will help prevent it from sticking.

If the Teflon film in the bowl is very thin, it is easily scratched to the base even with minor mechanical impact. When stirring food, the sharp edge of a wooden spatula always slightly scratches the coating, and over time, a combination of microscopic scratches, which are difficult to notice with the eye, lead to food sticking. The Teflon coating is sensitive to high temperatures and when heated above 270°C it is destroyed, and as a result, food also begins to stick.

In order for kitchen utensils coated with Teflon to serve for a long time, the thickness of the film must be significant. Teflon is expensive and therefore high-quality kitchen utensils with Teflon coating cannot be cheap.

All of the above also applies to ceramic-coated cookware. After all, this type of coating has nothing in common with ceramic tableware and is a nanocomposite polymer, which contains about 5% sand nanoparticles. Currently, the service life of dishes with a ceramic coating is many times lower than with Teflon.

Therefore, it is better to buy Teflon-coated cookware from well-known manufacturers who will not skimp on the thickness of the Teflon coating.

How to understand what malfunction has occurred in the Vitek multicooker using the codes on the panel

The manufacturer of multicookers, Vitek, does not indicate in the user manuals for operating the devices either specific fault codes or the possibility of breakdowns in general.

The manufacturer of multicookers, Vitek, does not indicate possible ways to resolve problems with the equipment either in the instructions for the device or on the outer packaging

Based on feedback from users who encountered problems using the device, two common errors can be identified:

• E2 – overheating. The device has not yet cooled down from the previous cooking cycle.
• E4 - indicates a malfunction of the temperature sensor in the lid. Associated with unreliable contact in the connector from the sensor in the cover.

Breakdowns of Vitek multicookers

The problem of identifying possible breakdowns may arise for owners of Vitek equipment. The manufacturer does not indicate in the annotation either error codes or how to eliminate them. However, you can safely rely on reviews from users who have encountered this situation. Based on their experience, it will be possible to identify the most common breakdowns of the Vitek multicooker.

• Error E4. Usually it indicates that the temperature sensor, which is located in the lid, has failed. It will have to be replaced. However, it is possible that the fastening is simply unreliable.
• E2. Signal for simple overheating. If the owner starts a new program, and the device has not yet cooled down, then the automation does not allow her to do this. The appliance needs some time to cool down.

Of course, neither the instructions nor the packaging provide clear indications of possible breakdowns and how to fix them. But by following reviews from other users, you can identify some minor problems and deal with them yourself.

Mulinex multicooker - what kind of breakdowns are indicated by codes e0-e5

The most detailed information about faults and their codes on the control panel is provided by Mulinex: problems with each resistor or board has its own unique identifier.

Error E0 on the control panel of the Mulinex multicooker means that the temperature sensor at the top of the device is closed or open

The most frequently occurring codes are collected in the table.

Design and principle of operation of a multicooker

To successfully repair a multicooker with your own hands, you need to understand the device and the principle of its operation. The easiest way to understand this issue is to have a diagram of the multicooker device in front of your eyes.

In appearance, the multicooker resembles an ordinary saucepan, on the side of which there is a display and buttons for selecting the cooking mode. In its lower part there is a connector for connecting the network cable to the power supply and a switch. On top of the pan there is a hinged, hermetically sealed lid with a latch. If you press the button to open the lid, you will find a loose cooking bowl inside. The bowl resembles a saucepan without handles and is easy to remove.

The heating and operating mode control system of the multicooker is located in its lower part and is covered with a plastic lid, which is also the bottom of the multicooker. The heating system of a multicooker differs from the heating system of an electric kettle or iron only in the presence of a microprocessor control system for its operating mode.

Electrical circuit and device

The operating principle of multicookers of all models and manufacturers differs slightly, so after studying the design and operating principle of the REDMOND RMC-M23 multicooker, you will be able to successfully repair any other.

The 220 V supply voltage is supplied to the three-pin standard connector of the multicooker, located in its lower part. One of the connector pins is grounding, designated PE

, and
a yellow-green
wire is connected using a threaded connection to a metal housing.
The yellow-green
wire is also connected to the metal part of the multicooker lid.

Wiring diagram

Power supply to the multicooker is supplied using the wires indicated in the diagram L

and
N.
_ In the wire circuit L (red in the photo), a switch and a thermal fuse are installed in series. The switch is used to turn on, and the thermal fuse is used to protect against overheating.

From the thermal fuse, the supply voltage is supplied to one of the terminals of the heating element and the board of the Power and Switching Unit. Wire N (white in the photo) is connected to the Power and Switching Unit directly. The supply voltage from it to the second terminal of the heating element occurs when the contacts of the relay located on the board of the Power and Control Unit are closed.

Power supply and switching

One of the most loaded and often fails is the Power and Switching Unit. This block performs two tasks at once. Converts 220 V AC voltage supplied from the network into 5 V DC voltage (to power the control unit) and 12 V (to power the switching circuit), and provides, upon a signal from the Control Unit, the supply of 220 V supply voltage using a relay (black rectangular part ) on the heating element.

As you can see from the photo, some elements are missing on the board; it is obvious that the board is universal and only the elements necessary for the operation of the multicooker model REDMOND RMC-M23 were installed on it. Additional elements are installed if the board is used in other REDMOND models.

At the bottom left of the board you can see a metal disk covered in yellow insulation. This is a disk power supply (battery) of type CR2032 with a voltage of 3 V. The battery is designed to store cooking programs manually recorded by the cook in the memory chip of the multicooker control unit after disconnecting it from the network.

Control block

The brain of the multicooker is the Control Unit. Thanks to this unit, the multicooker, in comparison with the electric stove, began to meet all the modern requirements of kitchen masters.

The photo shows the control unit of the REDMOND RMC-M23 multicooker from the installation side of the elements. A dark square with pins on all four sides is the processor. On the other side of the board there are: a display, LEDs for menu illumination and operating mode control buttons.

The control unit is connected to the rest of the multicooker circuit using three connectors. Wires from the six-pin connector go to the Power and Switching Unit, and from two connectors with two contacts each go to two thermal resistors. White wires are connected to the thermal resistance, which is installed at the bottom of the pan, and blue wires are connected to the thermal resistance, which is located in the lid.

What task do thermal resistances perform in a multicooker?

Unlike constant resistances, thermal resistances (thermal resistors) greatly change their resistance when the ambient temperature changes. Thanks to this property, thermistors are widely used in household and industrial appliances as sensors for automatically adjusting and maintaining a given temperature.

The photo shows thermistors of type MF58 50 kOhm 1%, which are installed in the REDMOND RMC-M23. The MF58 thermistor is universal and is used to regulate temperature in many household appliances.

There are two thermistors installed in the multicooker, one is secured with adhesive aluminum tape on the metal part of the lid (pictured above), and the second is secured inside a spring-loaded glass at the bottom of the container (photo below).

After selecting the operating mode and pressing the “Start” button, the supply voltage is supplied to the heating element. After heating the lower thermal resistance (the bottom of the bowl in which the products are placed) to a certain temperature, the supply of voltage to the heating element is stopped until the temperature in the upper zone of the multicooker’s working capacity reaches a certain value. Then the heating turns on again and after a while turns off again. The frequency and duration of turning on the heating element depend on the selected mode and the volume of the bowl.

Thus, thanks to the presence of two thermistors, the microprocessor of the Control Unit constantly receives data on the heating temperature of the lower and upper zones of the bowl, which allows you to regulate the heating rate of products and maintain the required cooking temperature.

Why install a thermal fuse?

The thermal fuse is not directly involved in the operation of the multicooker and serves only to protect it from overheating in the event of a failure of the control system or a gross violation of the operating rules. If the temperature at the installation site of the thermal fuse reaches 170°C, it will trip and break the circuit. The multicooker will be de-energized and heating will stop. Blowing the thermal fuse is equivalent to turning off the switch.

Usually, in the electrical circuit of a multicooker of any model, a thermal fuse is installed, which you see in the photo. If it fails, the multicooker will have to be repaired. To do this, simply remove the bottom cover and replace the thermal fuse with a new one. But we must take into account that it is likely that the thermal fuse could have tripped due to a malfunction of the Control Unit or the Power and Switching Unit. Therefore, before replacing the thermal fuse, you must ensure that they are in good working order.

Attention! When repairing a multicooker and any other household electrical appliances connected to the household network, care should be taken. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical outlet may result in electric shock. Don't forget to unplug the multicooker from the socket! Just turning off the multicooker with the switch is not enough!

Competent repair

When undertaking repairs yourself, you must remember that the factory warranty disappears. Only the consumer will be responsible for the final result. The service center will exclude:

• free repair;
• warranty service;
• replacement of failed parts.

Therefore, if any error codes appear on the device and simply disconnecting from the network does not help to correct the situation, it would be more rational to contact a service center.

However, if the equipment is no longer under warranty, and the user has certain knowledge and skills, you can try to eliminate the defect yourself. It is important to always follow safety principles and unplug the multicooker from the mains.

The basis for proper operation

If users adhere to the basic rules for operating Redmond multicookers, error codes will appear on the display less frequently.

Before you start using the multicooker, carefully read the instructions: following all the recommendations will save you from frequent repairs, and preparing a varied menu for the whole family using the multicooker will turn into an easy and relaxed hobby without any extraneous hassle.

Instructions for the Redmond multicooker

It should be noted that the range of products called Redmond is represented in all price categories: there are simple budget multicookers and the same ones with software for 55 mode options, there are prestigious models with a unique design, designed for gourmets. Despite functional and external differences, these models are distinguished by high safety, stable reliability and simple operation.

Manufacturers also thought about recipes - each multicooker comes with not only an instruction manual, but also a brochure with at least 100 recipes.

How to open a multicooker correctly

If the equipment gives an E4 error, you will probably have to open it. To do this, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• To access the sensor, you just need to remove the top plastic cover.
• The integrity of the lower part of household appliances is ensured by fastenings. Usually there are three of them, unscrewed with a screwdriver.
• Next, you need to unfasten the cable that connects the bottom of the multicooker to the program sensor.
• The heating element is held in place by a mounting plate and screws. It needs to be removed.
• Next, the internal thermometer is removed, which controls the temperature during cooking and the heating elements.
• After this, it is worth finding damaged contacts. They are usually cleaned using sandpaper.

The principle of operation of a home multicooker

Unique home multicooker programs are corporate secrets. The controller is protected against reading information, excluding copying by competitors. The algorithms are stored in non-volatile memory. It is known: there are two sensors that allow the technician to create an algorithm for further actions. The multicooker design is based on mathematical calculations. We believe that the temperatures and durations of individual sections of the recipe are stored inside the memory chip. Valuable information lays the basis for controlling the heating element. The multicooker contains two sensors:

1. A thermistor is attached to the back of the main button. It is sometimes difficult to remove; the manufacturer did not at all intend the intervention of a self-taught person, bypassing warranty services. A considerable surprise awaits the lucky owners of Redmond: the removable terminals are filled with a compound, non-invasive dismantling is impossible. The news will prevent you from repairing the multicooker yourself.
2. Another sensor is hidden inside the lid. It is extremely difficult to get there; you should only go there if you are completely sure that the fault concerns the sensor. How to gain ironclad confidence. Try to unplug the desired connector, regardless of the compound, and then turn on the home multicooker. Is it still the same? There is a high probability that the snag has been found. Gain confidence by measuring the resistance between the sensor wires and heat the cap. Redmond multicookers pass the wires through the loop of the removable lid. After unscrewing the screw, dismantle the shield, pull the wiring out, cook with a home multicooker, while simultaneously measuring the resistance. You don't have to look for third-party funds.

A home multicooker requires readings from two sensors to operate. A pair of wires come from the sensors to the terminals of the control board; the substrate is often located under the buttons. Determining a faulty power supply is extremely simple: there is no lighting of the display panel elements in any state. Probably a source failure. Remove the bottom, measure the output voltage of the switching power supply. Do not confuse this with a transformer. Remove after filters and diode bridges.

Touch or mechanical control. In the latter case, the printed circuit board is equipped with microswitches. Counters count the number of presses, and the memory chip selects the appropriate information to execute the program. Traditionally, a pair of power wires come here, one goes out (the control signal of the relay that powers the heating element). Really simple! One signal runs the kitchen in a home multicooker. Getting the information requires a chipset to sweat. The signal is a constant level that turns the transistor on and off. The zener diode prevents the contact voltage from exceeding the limit level. The relay armature closes the heating element circuit. Now let's look at the processes occurring in a switching power supply.

A radical solution to the problem

Sometimes simple cleaning will not help solve the problem. If the multicooker does not work after manipulation, it may be necessary to completely replace the sensors. However, before removing them, you should make sure that the actions are appropriate. It often happens that the wires that run along the bend of the cover simply break. Therefore, you must first check the resistance with a multimeter.

Also, the cause of the breakdown and error E4 may be a blown fuse. It is similar to a resistor and is usually in the form of a simple wire. Common causes of combustion are:

• sudden voltage drop in the outlet;
• malfunction of the control unit or power supply.

In this case, a multimeter will also come in handy to help measure the resistance in the network.

What is the function of a thermal fuse?

The thermal fuse in the multicooker serves as protection against overheating. It looks like a small wire that is very similar to a resistor. Most of them have a conductivity of 10 to 15 A and operate at a temperature of 150-170 oC. If these indicators are exceeded, the thermal fuse burns out, which initiates a break in the electrical circuit. As a result, the device stops working, but the owner avoids a fire in the apartment. You can determine that a circuit break has occurred using a multimeter.

How to prevent the problem

To ensure that the multicooker does not display any errors, it is important to operate it correctly. To do this, you must follow a number of rules:

• It is necessary to wash the bowl after each cooking and dry it thoroughly.
• It is important to wash the valve, which is located on the lid, regularly and thoroughly remove scale.
• It is worth closing the lid tightly so as not to provoke the equipment to generate an error.
• The device should be installed on a hard and level surface, without traces of water.
• The device must be plugged into sockets with grounding and appropriate voltage.

If any error occurs, you must immediately disconnect the device from the power supply.

Sources

• https://tehno-gid.net/inf/oshibki-v-multivarke-redmond-kody-osobennosti-harakteristiki-i-sposoby-samostoyatelnogo-ustraneniya.html
• https://FB.ru/article/425907/oshibka-ev-multivarke-prichinyi-sposobyi-ustraneniya-nepoladki
• https://TechnoSova.ru/dlja-kuhni/multivarka/kody-oshibok-e01-e05/
• https://instaplace.ru/sauces-and-marinades/the-multivariate-writes-e5-what-to-do-error-codes-for-multivariate.html
• https://tehnika.expert/dlya-kuxni/multivarka/redmond-oshibki.html
• https://FB.ru/article/275837/oshibka-e-multivarka-redmond-chto-delat

Problems with Philips equipment

They are distinguished by excellent quality and flawless operation of the Philips multicooker. Error E4, however, can also occur in these devices. As service center workers suggest, the signal indicates that there has been a break in the wire that goes from the main unit to the cover. It consists of two parts, inside the inner layer there are many wires, and on the outside there is a mass that is supplied to the body.

When the housewife often uses the device, opens and closes the lid, the wires can bend and burst. To fix the breakdown, you need to unwind the insulating wire and find the break.

If the multicooker displays error E4, but the wires are intact, it is recommended to disconnect the device from the mains and allow it to cool. After this, the functioning sensors should enter normal operation. If this does not happen, then you should contact a specialized center for diagnosis and repair.