Whirlpool washing machine: do-it-yourself repair of the main malfunctions of the machine

Today, in almost every apartment building you can find a Whirlpool brand washing machine, and more than one. Both assemblies are common in our country: Slovakia and Italy. The latter are bought less frequently and are more expensive, but machines assembled in Slovakia can be found in all household appliance stores.

Perhaps, it was the European assembly standards that helped Whirlpool machines establish themselves as machines of high quality and enviable durability. That is why repairs are rarely required, but if breakdowns do occur, you can often repair Whirlpool washing machines (Whirlpool) yourself.

Typical Whirlpool machine failures

If we thoroughly list all possible breakdowns of SMA, we would be forced to write a whole manual in 10 volumes. Therefore, we will focus only on malfunctions that are typical for this brand.

We've used data from reputable service centers to create valuable instructions for those planning to do their own Whirlpool washing machine repairs.

The most common failures:

• After washing, the water remains in the tank.
• Washing modes freeze, do not start at all, or programs run incorrectly.
• All washing modes are carried out in cold water.
• The SMA leaks in the manhole area.

Important! These seemingly harmless faults may hide serious damage. They need to be eliminated immediately so as not to completely break the SM.

The most vulnerable parts of Whirlpool machines

Based on the problems described above, we can identify the most vulnerable areas of Whirlpool washing machines. Many modern models have a self-diagnosis system that, using a fault code, will tell you which part has failed.

But what to do if the machine does not turn on at all, and there is nothing that could help you find out the cause of the breakdown? Listen to the advice of experienced repairmen, they are sure that the most vulnerable parts in a Whirlpool machine are:

1. Thermoelectric heater – heating element.
2. The engine and its moving elements.
3. Hatch cuff, pipes.
4. Controller (control module).

Attention! Whirlpool machines, like any other machines, suffer from blockages. Both filters and hoses become clogged. If you carry out cleaning in a timely manner (3-4 times a year), you can avoid breakdowns of the water drain and fill system.

We dismantle the pressure switch and control panel

The further sequence of actions depends on the final goal. If it is necessary to remove the pressure switch or control panel, then the starting point will be the top of the machine body. The step-by-step instructions are as follows.

1. Carefully insert the putty knife under the dashboard and lift to release the two spring clips.
2. Slowly pull the part towards you.
3. We inspect the opened selector switches and the water supply valve. When replacing the electronic board, you must remember the location of the connectors and lead wires.
4. We disconnect the conductors and power cable (to conveniently unhook the terminals and brackets, it is better to use a flat-head screwdriver or pliers).
5. Remove the water level sensor tube.
6. Using a suitable socket or wrench, unscrew the two fastening screws.
7. We take out the central control module.

Now all that remains is to straighten the groups of wires and finally remove the dashboard. To avoid confusion in the future when reassembling, it is recommended to photograph the connections and connectors or take care to mark them with a felt-tip pen or electrical tape. To penetrate even further into the interior of the Whirlpool washing machine, you will have to continue the manipulations you have begun.

Water does not leave the tank of the Whirlpool machine

You are probably familiar with the situation when you loaded the laundry into the tank, selected a convenient washing mode, went about your business in the kitchen, then came to get the laundry, and there was a disaster. The machine is malfunctioning: it is full of water and foam, the wash has not finished, the laundry is wet.

You restart the program, but everything is in a circle - the washing program is not executed because the water remains in the drum. This problem is caused by one of three factors:

• Debris has accumulated in the water drain pipe or drain filter.
• A clogged drain hose or a blockage in the sewer system.
• Failure of the electric drain pump (pump).

However, before you devote time to finding the causes of the failure, prepare your SMA for this:

1. Turn off the power.
2. Manually drain any water remaining in the drum. This can be done quickly using the emergency drain hose - it is usually located near the water drain filter.
3. Place a container or place a rag on the floor and waste water will flow out there.

Next, remove the waste water filter:

• Place a cloth or container under the hatch behind which the filter is located.
• Unscrew the plug counterclockwise.
• Clean and rinse the unit under the tap.
• Put everything back in place.
• Twist the drain hose, clean and rinse it, and install it in place.

It doesn't hurt to check the drain for blockages.

To carry out all the steps, you do not need to know how to disassemble a Whirlpool washing machine - this is an easy job that any user can do.

If your actions did not help get rid of the problem, the drainage system is clean, there is no blockage in the sewer, and the washing machine still does not drain water from the tank, it will still have to be disassembled. The real cause of the breakdown may be hidden in the pump and drain pipe.

Important! Almost all Whirlpool models are designed in such a way that the pump and pipe can only be reached from the bottom. You'll have to turn the car on its side.

How to find, check and clean the pump and pipe:

1. Remove the detergent dispenser.
2. Disconnect the machine from all systems: electricity, water supply, sewerage.
3. Turn the SMA over, placing it on the side wall.
4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the bottom.
5. Arm yourself with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.
6. If you find a problem, change the pump.
7. If the pump has nothing to do with it, then proceed further.
8. Loosen the clamps of the water drain pipe.
9. Remove the pipe.
10. Clean and rinse it.
11. Reinstall the pipe.

This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of loading. The design of the top-loading Whirlpool washing machine is somewhat different from that of conventional washing machines, but the problem with it must be solved according to the same scheme.

The main malfunctions of the Whirlpool washing machine with vertical loading and how to eliminate them

According to reviews from users and specialists, the following problems most often arise:

1. Control unit malfunction. In this case, after turning on the machine, all indicators light up chaotically or during the “Wash” function its mode is disrupted. To eliminate this breakdown, it is necessary to determine the board that is causing the failure of the control unit. To correct this problem with a top-loading Whirlpool washing machine, you must contact a qualified technician.
2. Failure to perform the “Drain water” option. This problem can only occur during the last cycle of operation of the washing machine. If water remains in the tank, disconnect the device from the power supply and drain the water using the emergency drain hose. The cause of the breakdown may be accumulated debris or pump failure. It is necessary to clean the filter from accumulated contaminants.
3. Failure of the heating element. If within 10 minutes after starting the machine in the “Wash” mode the water temperature does not increase, then the “culprit” of the breakdown is the tubular electric heater. Such a malfunction of the Whirlpool washing machine, both front-loading and vertical, most often occurs due to hard water, poor-quality chemicals, or a power surge. If the heating element fails, it will need to be replaced.
4. Spontaneous opening of the unit doors. If the shutters malfunction, you must stop using the washing machine, as the drum may jam. This problem may be caused by overloading, uneven distribution of items inside, or a faulty drum latch.

Whirlpool machine freezes, cold water when washing

Often, after starting the washing machine, the control panel begins to behave inappropriately: the display blinks, and all the LEDs blink along with it. The program you have chosen may also not work.

If this is your case, then immediately turn off the SM and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem persists, you should call a technician, since the control module is damaged, and repairing it yourself is almost impossible. You will need not only a diagram of the control module of the Whirlpool washing machine, but also experience in such repairs.

If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash clothes well, then you can determine the breakdown without the help of special devices and carry out independent repairs.

The most likely reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor) , but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements together. Next, follow this simple procedure:

• Turn the machine so that the front wall is in front of you - this will make it more convenient to work.
• Unscrew the bolts and remove the back panel.
• Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with working with the heater.
• You won’t see the entire heating element at once - only its tail is visible under the tank, to which four wires go, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the temperature sensor.
• Remove all wires.
• Take a tester and measure the resistance of the temperature sensor contacts. Check the readings at room temperature, and then by heating the sensor in warm water, they should differ significantly if the sensor is working.
• Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal values ​​are: 20-40 Ohms.

With such a problem, the breakdown will most likely be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.

Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly determine the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots appear on it. If there is just a little scale, then the heating element may not have burned out, but if the water stone is 1 cm thick or more, the breakdown is obvious.

You can easily change the heating element with your own hands as follows:

1. The contacts and wires have already been removed, so next remove the plastic shield.
2. Unscrew the fastener - it is located in the center of the shank.
3. By carefully pulling the contacts, shaking the heater in different directions, remove the heating element. The rubber gasket will be an obstacle, so be patient - there is nothing you can do about it.
4. Having taken out the heating element, remove the gasket.

Important! Mechanics recommend installing a new gasket along with the new heater, since leaks due to wear of the gasket are detrimental to this important unit.

• There is probably debris and scale in the hole where the heating element was, so carry out a general cleaning; Only after this can you install the gasket.
• Install a new heating element, tighten the fastener.
• Replace the plastic shield.
• Connect the contacts to the heater and sensor.
• Restore the location of the bracket, and finally mount the machine panel back.

Error codes

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