BOSCH washing machines have a wide range of self-diagnosis functionality. Considering that the list of typical breakdowns is limited (the Bosch washing machine does not drain water, does not turn on, does not heat the water and the heating element needs to be replaced), it is often possible to repair the machine yourself. Even if the user does not decide to fix the problem at home, specific knowledge of the problem will be useful. For example, to independently purchase spare parts or to exclude “imposed” work by dishonest workshops.
The article discusses a complete list of errors displayed on the display for various malfunctions of the Bosch washing machine. Instructions for troubleshooting popular problems are also provided.
Diagnostic mode
Washing machines do not display all the errors described below to the user on the display or through indicators. To obtain the most complete information, there is a diagnostic mode, which can be entered through a sequence of switching controls. Let's look at the example of the bosch maxx 5 model (similar to the bosch maxx 6 and bosch maxx 7).
- Plug in the machine and close the door.
- Move the program selector to the vertical position.
- Wait 2-3 seconds.
- Move the selector to position 8.
- Wait for the Start/Stop button to flash.
- Press and hold the “Spin speed” button.
- Move the selector 1 position clockwise.
- Release the button.
The washing machine display or a combination of indicators will display the latest machine malfunction.
To start a new test, you need to select the analysis program using the selector.
| Position | Test element |
| 1 | — |
| 2 | — |
| 3 | Engine |
| 4 | Drain pump |
| 5 | heating element |
| 6 | Hot water fill valve |
| 7 | Water inlet valve for main and prev. washing |
| 8 | Water inlet valve for main washing |
| 9 | Pre-water fill valve washing |
| 10 | Audio test |
| 11 | Auto test |
| 12 | Auto mechanic test |
| 13 | Autotest not mechanics |
| 14 | Quick auto test |
| 15 | Quick auto test |
What to do if there is a problem with the washing machine program?
The washing machine control module is a small computer that controls the operation of the main components of the unit. The problem of program failure can be solved simply by rebooting the control unit. To do this, you need to press the power button and hold it pressed for a few seconds to turn off the washer. After a few minutes, turn the machine back on.
When the machine freezes and the control panel buttons do not respond, you need to unplug the power cord from the outlet and let the machine rest for 10-15 minutes. Such a hot reboot saves in case of a one-time failure, but if failures occur regularly, then this indicates a system or hardware error.
In a few cases, the test mode, which is provided on washing machines Indtsit, Ardo and others, comes to the rescue. After passing the test, an error code appears on the display of the control module.
By searching the Internet for what a specific code means, you can determine the cause of software failures. If manufacturers have not provided a test mode, then you need to independently look for which unit unit is damaged or not working, thereby eliminating one of the possible causes each time.
Error codes
| Error code | Malfunction | Causes and solutions |
| F01 | The hatch door is not closed | Make sure that the door fits snugly and that there is a characteristic click when closing. The locking device or closing sensor may have failed. The door assembly can be replaced entirely or disassembled and replaced with the necessary parts: hinge, locking tab, etc. |
| F02 | Water does not flow inside | Check: — supply of cold water from the riser; — inlet filter for clogging; — serviceability of the intake valve. |
| F03 | The machine does not drain water | Drain the water manually. Check: — filter, drain hose for blockages; — serviceability of the drain pump. In the worst case, there is a problem with the control board. |
| F04 | Water leak in the system | Check the connections of all hoses and connections inside the machine for leaks. |
| F16 | The hatch door is not closed | Similar to error F01. |
| F17 | Water filling time exceeded | Similar to error F02. |
| F18 | Water drain time exceeded | Similar to error F03. |
| F19 | Water heating time exceeded | Check the integrity of the heating element circuit. Clean the heating element from scale. Make sure that the power of the heating element complies with the technical requirements of the machine, if it has just been installed. |
| F20 | Unexpected heating | The temperature sensor or heating element relay may have failed. A broken element must be replaced. In the worst case, the control board is faulty. |
| F21 | Drive motor does not rotate drum | You should remove the back cover and check the condition of the drive belt, its fit on the drum and generator shafts. Next, you need to repair the motor. If necessary, change it. The machine may also not turn the drum due to a faulty control board. |
| F22 | Temperature sensor error | Broken or short-circuited sensor contacts. You should ring the electrical circuit. |
| F23 | Activating leak protection | Similar to error F04. |
| F25 | Turbidity sensor error | Check: — sensor for the presence of limescale; — exhaust system for blockages; - drain pump. It is also possible that too dirty water comes from the riser. |
| F26 | Pressure sensor error | Possible failure of the sensor, solenoid valve, or depressurization of the system. |
| F27 | Pressure sensor error | Similar to error F26. |
| F28 | Flow sensor error (value out of range) | Check: — water flow into the system and its pressure; — serviceability of the solenoid valve. Perhaps the sensor itself has failed. |
| F29 | Water does not flow through the flow sensor | Check: — correct connection of the machine; — water flow into the system; — serviceability of the solenoid valve; Perhaps the sensor itself has failed. |
| F31 | The water level has exceeded the permissible maximum | Avoid incorrect connection of the machine. The intake valve or drain pump is broken. The pressure sensor is faulty. Check the drain hose for kinks. |
| F34 | The hatch door is not locked | Check: - door fit; — locking mechanism; — electrical circuit of the blocking sensor. |
| F36 | Door lock is faulty | Check the wiring and replace the locking device if necessary. |
| F37 | Temperature sensor faulty | Similar to error F22. |
| F38 | Temperature sensor short circuit | Check the sensor-board electrical circuit. Replace sensor. |
| F40 | Power supply error | The cause can be all sorts of problems in the power supply: low voltage, power surge, etc. You should try connecting to a different power line (for example, through an extension cord). Call an electrician. |
| F42 | Maximum engine speed exceeded | The engine or speed sensor has failed. Problems with mains voltage. Control board failure. |
| F43 | Engine lock | Avoid mechanical blocking of the drum or drive belt by foreign objects. The drum bearing has failed. Excessive tank loading. |
| F44 | No reverse engine | Reverse relay is broken. The drum is overloaded. Control board failure. |
| F59 | Drum position sensor error | Sensor failure. Uneven position of the device on the floor. Drum overload. |
| F60 | Flow sensor error | Similar to errors F28, F29. |
| F61 | Lock sensor error | Same as F36, F01. |
| F63 or | Enabling functional protection | Software error. CPU error. Replacing the control board or reprogramming the software. |
| F67 | Controller error | Replacing or reprogramming the unit. |
| E02 | Engine failure | Complete replacement of the unit. Repair is possible if the cause is wear of the graphite brushes of the motor or the rotor bearing. |
| E67 | Control unit error | Similar to F67. |
Reasons for program failure in a washing machine.
Before diagnosing the main components, you should make sure that the machine is connected correctly to the sewer system. Incorrect connection contributes to the siphon effect. As a result of this process, water can involuntarily drain from the drum, which causes the washing program to fail.
You should also pay attention at what stage of the wash the freezing occurs. If the problem was noticed during rinsing and spinning, it is worth checking the drain filter. The filter is located on the front wall at the bottom right under the loading door. To check the filter you need:
- Remove the bottom bar (it is secured with bolts or latches);
- Unscrew the filter plug (water may remain in the machine and the drainage system; you need to place a basin and collect the water);
- Clean the filter from dirt (dirt, hair, coins can accumulate here) that interferes with the flow of water.
- Reinstall the filter and start the washing program.
If such manipulations do not help eliminate the problem, then you should pay attention to the work:
- Control unit and system board;
- Heating element;
- Engine.
Failure of such components requires disassembly of the main unit; do not carry out such repair work yourself if you do not have the necessary skills.
Main machine malfunctions
No water heating
If the machine stops heating the water completely, the automation will report this with a corresponding error. But it is possible that the heating is insufficient or slow. This can be understood by the increased running time of programs (especially if washed at high temperatures). The reasons may be as follows:
- Damage to the temperature sensor (thermostat)
The sensor looks like a silver cylinder. It is inserted from the outside into the hole of the heating element. There is wiring from the sensor to the control board. If the wiring is intact, the sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced.
- Heating element malfunction
A heating element is a metal coil with an electrical conductor and a fuse inside. It is inserted into the working cavity of the washing machine under the drum, where it heats the water. From the outside, voltage and grounding from the control unit are connected to its terminals.
Failure is associated either with a burnout of the electrical circuit (fuse tripping), or with scale on the coil due to lime deposits. If the circuit of the coil itself is intact, then you can clean the working part of the heater with citric acid or special descaling agents. Otherwise, it is necessary to replace the heating element, which is not very difficult.
- Control module failure
If the “brain” of the washing machine fails, the heating command (voltage) is not sent to the heating element, and the malfunction may manifest itself intermittently and unpredictably. In this case, only flashing or replacing the board can help.
Extraneous noise during washing
First, you should make sure that the extraneous sounds are not coming from metal/plastic parts of the clothes being washed. Run “soft” clothes or a short cycle without clothes at all. If the sounds are not lost, the options are below.
- Foreign object between tank and drum
Having slipped through the holes of the drum, small buttons, bones from women's underwear, etc. hit it when washing. Disassembly required.
- Bearing failure
Bearings and seals on the drum and motor shafts are subject to serious loads, and their natural wear is faster the more intensively the machine is used. If you hear a characteristic metallic grinding noise during the washing and spinning process, this is most likely the problem. Replacing bearings is one of the most difficult repair procedures.
- Shock absorber wear
The machine may creak and hum during spin cycles due to wear and excessive stretching of the shock absorbers - the metal springs on which the drum is suspended. They should be changed in pairs to avoid distortion.
- Free movement of counterweight
A counterweight is a heavy stone (concrete) pad attached to the drum from the front to absorb vibrations during spinning. If the bolts holding it in place are loose, unnecessary vibrations and loud knocking noises may occur.
Engine problems
Motors in Bosch washing machines come with direct drive and commutator drive. The latter are equipped with carbon brushes, which create an electromagnetic field in the motor rotor when friction against its walls. Worn bristles make it impossible to start the engine. They need to be replaced.
Other problems may be related to electrical issues: power surges in the network, interturn short circuits in the motor windings, etc. Such malfunctions are usually fixed at a service center.
The drum does not spin
If the engine is working properly, but there is no rotation, you should go through the options.
- Tank lock
Avoid any mechanical blocking of the tank rotation. A foreign body can be located both inside and outside it.
- Drive belt wear
The rubber belt that transmits rotation from the motor shaft to the drum shaft can shift, break, or stretch. To check it, just remove the back cover. It can be easily changed independently, you just need to purchase a spare part strictly in accordance with the machine article number.
- Control unit malfunction
Failure of the control module is diagnosed by excluding other causes and by starting from an “external” known-good board. As a rule, it can only be repaired in workshops.
Water does not drain
- Mechanical problem
The drain hose may be pinched or kinked. It is also worth unscrewing and checking the filter of the washing machine, located in its base. If it is also clean, you can try disconnecting the drain hose from the point of entry into the sewer and running a program to drain into a bathtub, sink or large container. This will prevent clogging of the siphon (if any) or sewer pipes.
- Broken water level sensor
If the sensor is broken, the control board may stop the drain pump prematurely or not start it at all.
- Pump failure
A pump (or drain pump) is a small motor with a plastic impeller that pumps water into the drain system.
A sure sign of its failure is a quiet low hum of the machine when trying to drain the water and the absence of water gurgling at the same time. The windings of the pump motor hum, but the mechanism itself does not spin. The cause is often lime deposits.
The part needs to be replaced.
Incorrect system operation
Unpredictable, unsystematic behavior of the washing machine usually indicates a breakdown of the control unit. Stops, long pauses in washing cycles, a strong discrepancy between the actual execution time of programs and the stated duration are sure signs of a brain breakdown. Also, the machine may simply not turn on, not spin, or open at the end of the program.
In devices with electronic control, the board must be replaced. The procedure is not complicated, but the cost of the part can reach half the price of a new machine. Electromechanical models with a programmer allow you to “reflash” it
Engine
The system board controls the operation of the motor and sets the required number of revolutions during washing and spinning. A breakdown in the engine can cause program failures and breakdown of the entire unit.
To diagnose and repair complex expensive parts of your washing machine, contact our service center.
This video will help you understand in detail the causes of program failures and how to eliminate them:
The self-diagnosis system of various Bosch washing machines has one oddity. If the program recognizes a malfunction and generates an error code, you cannot simply remove this error from the display, even after repairing the washing machine.
You must first fix the problem, then, following a certain scheme, you need to reset the error on the Bosch washing machine. Only after this the washing machine will be able to start normally and can be used. We will tell you how to perform such a reset in this article.
Reset on Bosch Classixx series washing machines
Let's start with Bosch Classixx washing machines. The reset scheme that we will now describe is correct for the Bosch Classixx 5, Classixx 4, Classixx 3 models. So, in order to reset an error that you are already tired of, you need to perform a number of simple steps:
- Press the “on/start” button and hold it pressed.
- Turn the selector from the “off” position two positions to the left (two clicks). We continue to hold the “on/start” button.
- We wait 2 seconds and release the “power/start” button.
- The display should show the duration of the washing program on which the selector is currently set. On machines without a display, all indicators should blink.
DIY washing machine repair tips
General advice
When more or less seriously disassembling a car, you have to unscrew a lot of screws and self-tapping screws. It is better to photograph each fastener element near its regular place or write it down on paper. This will significantly save time during reassembly.
The same applies to all kinds of sensor terminals and cables suitable for the control board (if you have to disconnect them).
Replacing the heating element
The first thing to do is gain access to its terminals. Simply remove the back cover of the machine.
Then you should exclude a possible breakdown to the housing: sequentially make sure that there is no circuit between each of the terminals and the housing.
Next, you need to check the continuity of the circuit between contacts L and N and measure the resistance between them. Depending on the power of the heater, it should be within 24-28 Ohms (R=U2/P). For example, a Bosch maxx 4 has a heating element power of exactly 2 kW and a resistance of 24.2 ohms. If it is very small or very large, replacement is necessary.
When purchasing spare parts, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- power (always indicated on the heater itself);
- length (too long may not fit into the tank);
- a hole for a temperature sensor (should be present if there is one in a broken sample);
- curb in a rubber seal (similar).
The last one is very important, because if there is no curb, water will flow directly to the contacts of the heating element when filling the tank. To make it easier for the heating element to fit into the connector, silicone lubricant of the rubber part is useful.
